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Solid to Sliding Rear Window Swap, How Easy?

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Old May 21, 2011 | 06:36 PM
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Solid to Sliding Rear Window Swap, How Easy?

I have a 79 150 regular cab truck. It has solid back glass right now, but I should be just about to get a slider in a trade! I had one on my old truck, and I miss it all summer long.

I know it's a pretty common swap, but glass is not metal, you can't bend it back..... So what exactly does the switch entail? Will I need any special tools? Is my window ever going to seal right again?

Also, are there year to year variations, or is a 73-79 sliding glass a 73-79 sliding glass?

Thanks for any info, AleX
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 06:54 PM
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Just a rope and silicone spray.
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 07:01 PM
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Put the seal on around the metal of the sliding glass window. Now put the rope in the channel and sprary it with silicone spray. Have someone push the sliding window againest the opening with the 2 rope ends being able to grab inside the cab. While the other person is holding the window start pulling the rope ends and the rubber gasket should start coming in on the metal lip of the window opening. Once the rope is pulled all the way around you should have a tight seal and a new sliding rear window
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 07:55 PM
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someone else will chime in but I think a back window all the way to the early/mid 90's will fit.
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 08:00 PM
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Up till 96 will fit.
I would use WD40 as a lube, rope in channel of gasket as said above but for further info have the ends of the rope at the top, place the gasketed window into hole pushing the bottom downward as to seat the gasket into place then have a helper push inward on assembly while pulling on rope ends.
You cant screw this up its real simple
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 08:47 PM
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What was said above. If your existing seal is hard or cracked spend the $$ and get a new seal. Makes the job so much easier.
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 09:28 PM
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so a rear windshield from a 76 will go into any ford truck until 96?
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by smartass_kid
so a rear windshield from a 76 will go into any ford truck until 96?
yep. cool hey!

The seats from the mid 90's will also fit our trucks
 
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Old May 22, 2011 | 01:06 PM
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Very cool, thanks guys! With how easy it is, I think I'll do it right away! Have it done in time for summer. And I got it in trade for a smelly old 351C intake manifold!

I'll be back with any questions, but hopefully it'll all go well.

Thanks again! AleX
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 01:16 PM
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Can I get the old one out and keep the seal without damaging it?
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by nothercrash
Can I get the old one out and keep the seal without damaging it?
Probably not. If it is old it will probably crack on you and won't seal ever again.

Spend the bucks and buy a new seal.

You may have to cut the old one to get it out anyway.

I use window cleaner as a lube. Spray it on constantly as you are doing the install.
I have heard, but cannot verify, that silicone will not dry and can cause a loose window because is is a lubricant.
I would not use WD-40 since it will eat/disolve rubber over a long period of time.
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 03:52 PM
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The only difference in the rear windows from 73-96 is the thickness of the glass. You need to use the rubber that matches the window you are using. In other words, if you are installing a window out of a 92 into a dent, you need to use the rubber for a 92............
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 08:09 PM
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Well the job is done! Thanks for the last minute pointers guys, although I ended up using WD40 (before reading this), hopefully all still stays OK....

I was going to play it by ear as to the seal. I didn't know what the one I was getting would be like, and I didn't know what mine would do when I started bending it. The one that came with the window was trash, but the one on my truck was actually in great shape, probably less dry than my tires..... The kid who had the truck before me probably replaced it, although it has at least 2 coats of paint mistakes on it....

It was even tight to the slider, so I just went ahead and used it.

The slider slides.... not very well at all, but I'm going to clean it and get some oil to it in the morning. It has a metal latch!

A couple things I'll say about the project, just for the future readers reference: was it a 5 minute project for the first timer? No, but not more than 40 minutes for removal and installation. And USE A FAT STRING! I had something a little thinner than twine. It was nylon though, so I figured with that, and all the WD40, it would slide out fine, NOT SO! I would recommend either some pretty fat strong synthetic twine, bailing wire would probably work great actually, or up to like a thin clothes line cord. That would have shaved probably 15 minutes off the whole thing, I had to do alot of messing.

She's in though! Woopeeee! I'll be a little bit less soaked when I get up off that vinyl seat......

Thanks for all the tips, AleX
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 10:10 PM
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What about using soapy water mix? How thick of rope are we talking to use? Would you think 1/4" would be best?
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 10:15 PM
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Ya, 1/4 would be fine I think. I wouldn't go any bigger than that, but mine was way too small to do the job right, definitely don't go too small.

And ya soapy water would work fine. You know butter or lard would probably work great, or vaseline. I'm just thinking of stuff that would sort of, dry up, eventually.
 
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