Fed Up.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 453
Likes: 0
From: Royse City TX
Not unless the cylinders are full LOL I'm still trying to figure out exactly what the symptoms are. Starts but wont run, wont start but is firing randomly, backfires through carb/exh, dipstick is puking raw fuel ??? lol ? So far I just cant put a picture together in my mind. Ran fine before the intake swap and now wont start smells suspiciously like a dizzy replaced in the wrong position to me. Did you attach the rotor to the dizzy shaft when putting it all back together ? 
Nope, never fires at all. (now) Like you said it did run before I started tinkering. I will try restabing the dizzy (again) it can't hurt, I'm not sure what you mean by rotor. If you mean the drive shaft for the oil pump then yes. I aslo have a problem with that. But that's a different story entirely.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
Are all your pushrods on the lifters?
The rotor is the piece on the end of the distributor shaft under the cap that conducts the spark to the correct tower on the cap.
I would:
Pull and clean the plugs
make sure the firing order is in the right direction (CW vs CCW)
Make sure the rotor is pointing at the tower for the #1 cylinder
Then give it a shot again.
The rotor is the piece on the end of the distributor shaft under the cap that conducts the spark to the correct tower on the cap.
I would:
Pull and clean the plugs
make sure the firing order is in the right direction (CW vs CCW)
Make sure the rotor is pointing at the tower for the #1 cylinder
Then give it a shot again.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,574
Likes: 4
From: Golden, CO
When you pull and clean the plugs, leave them out while you crank the engine to clear the cylinders.
While you are at it:
Ground the #1 plug wire to the block.
Clip the timing light on and see where the timing marks come out while you are doing all this cranking.
Once you verify that the spark is when it should be you can move on to other systems.
Spark first.
Compression: When you tried to start the engine before, was the sound constant? If you don't have even compression, the cranking will speed up and slow down noticably.
Fuel: Find out why you have so much fuel leaking. Is there a carb that worked before?
While you are at it:
Ground the #1 plug wire to the block.
Clip the timing light on and see where the timing marks come out while you are doing all this cranking.
Once you verify that the spark is when it should be you can move on to other systems.
Spark first.
Compression: When you tried to start the engine before, was the sound constant? If you don't have even compression, the cranking will speed up and slow down noticably.
Fuel: Find out why you have so much fuel leaking. Is there a carb that worked before?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 453
Likes: 0
From: Royse City TX
Are all your pushrods on the lifters?
The rotor is the piece on the end of the distributor shaft under the cap that conducts the spark to the correct tower on the cap.
I would:
Pull and clean the plugs
make sure the firing order is in the right direction (CW vs CCW)
Make sure the rotor is pointing at the tower for the #1 cylinder
Then give it a shot again.
The rotor is the piece on the end of the distributor shaft under the cap that conducts the spark to the correct tower on the cap.
I would:
Pull and clean the plugs
make sure the firing order is in the right direction (CW vs CCW)
Make sure the rotor is pointing at the tower for the #1 cylinder
Then give it a shot again.
When you pull and clean the plugs, leave them out while you crank the engine to clear the cylinders.
While you are at it:
Ground the #1 plug wire to the block.
Clip the timing light on and see where the timing marks come out while you are doing all this cranking.
Once you verify that the spark is when it should be you can move on to other systems.
Spark first.
Compression: When you tried to start the engine before, was the sound constant? If you don't have even compression, the cranking will speed up and slow down noticably.
Fuel: Find out why you have so much fuel leaking. Is there a carb that worked before?
While you are at it:
Ground the #1 plug wire to the block.
Clip the timing light on and see where the timing marks come out while you are doing all this cranking.
Once you verify that the spark is when it should be you can move on to other systems.
Spark first.
Compression: When you tried to start the engine before, was the sound constant? If you don't have even compression, the cranking will speed up and slow down noticably.
Fuel: Find out why you have so much fuel leaking. Is there a carb that worked before?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 453
Likes: 0
From: Royse City TX
One thing i thought of. I removed the valley pan b/c my friend sliped and bent it. I have heard tow different things one is that its all good that thing doesnt really help much and that it acts as part of the head gasket. I may have to just buy a head gasket kit and start over.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 453
Likes: 0
From: Royse City TX
Well Damn
So....I'm going to have to pull the engine. In the act of restabing the distributor the oil pump drive shaft fell into the oil pan. So that being said I will have to pull the motor to remove the oil pan and get the oil pump drive shaft put in right.......damnit.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,574
Likes: 4
From: Golden, CO
Awww crap!!!! I hate it when I do that!
Are you sure it fell all the way down? Don't see it in the hole? I've been lucky enough to fish one or two out with a magnet or claw style tool.
If you have to go there, you may be able to lift just enough to remove the pan without unbolting the tranny. You have to undo enough stuff to lift the front, loosen the tranny mount so the tranny stays located, but can still pivot as the front lifts. Be mindfull of hoses and wires that might pull and break stuff.
Put corrugated on the ground under the truck. That gives a little cushion for the back and catches the mess. Toss it when you're done.
Daym Josh! A couple more tuition payments to the school of hard knocks and we'll have you graduated to shadetree mechanic.
Are you sure it fell all the way down? Don't see it in the hole? I've been lucky enough to fish one or two out with a magnet or claw style tool.
If you have to go there, you may be able to lift just enough to remove the pan without unbolting the tranny. You have to undo enough stuff to lift the front, loosen the tranny mount so the tranny stays located, but can still pivot as the front lifts. Be mindfull of hoses and wires that might pull and break stuff.
Put corrugated on the ground under the truck. That gives a little cushion for the back and catches the mess. Toss it when you're done.
Daym Josh! A couple more tuition payments to the school of hard knocks and we'll have you graduated to shadetree mechanic.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,785
Likes: 4
From: Mddl A MexCans
If the tinnerman is still on the shaft then it most likely is leaning against the pump. Mine has done this several times and with a tiny pen magnet it has always been lifted and reset in place. Getting the ****ing thing to release from the magnet and stay seated is another BOS but eventually you get it LOL
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
hi,Does this driveshaft fit through the oil drain on the oil pan. What I'm sayin is you possibly could reach it through the timing chain cover. You've had the motor in and out and just pulling the engine may be easier for you.
I recall insisting over and over that I had all the plug wires in the right spot. Of course the solution was moving the two wires that I had crossed. Another time was a spark plug still laying on the bench.
give my best to the GF
Enjoy
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 453
Likes: 0
From: Royse City TX
And I think my tuition payment is due thi weekend. Gonna try again. Damn thing needs an oil change anyway.
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