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Ok I have a 1975 390fe. I rebuilt it myself a few months ago and it ran beautifully. It is a ******* combo between the origional 1973 360fe(bad block) and the 390 that I bought out of a pick-n-pull I decided to change the intake and carb for a 4bbl / Edelbrock. I changed the intake an.d put on the carb but it wont start. Please help. I have tinkerd with it long enough, I want it to run. the GF is getting fed up with it not being able to move so she can park!
Please help. I need the truck to run or I need to find a new place to park it. (someone else's house :-( )
not enough to go on to really help you. I think we can be assured it's getting air ? maybe even gas? Spark ?
If so then your down to ignition/timing. 9 outa 10 folks have the dizzy installed 180º from where it should be when they find themselves stumped. Provided you got all the rebuild put together correctly I'd start by pulling the #1 plug and verify TDC. Then pop the dizzy cap and see where it's pointing.
Other than a gross vac leak from a unknown source choking you out ?
TDC doesnt mean the piston is at the top. It means the piston is at the top of the compression stroke (one of two times it's at the top)
Ok sorry, here are the details. The intake is a ford original form the 390. I have two identical carburetors (Edelbrock 1407). I have tried both of them. I am getting spark, I've tested by holding the wire close and it does arc. Gasoline is making it through the carb (i think) because i can smell it and it leaks out of the exhaust mani.I don't hink its 180 out cause i tried it 180 the other direction. the firing order is right 15426378 (memorized)
I'd pull the valve cover over #1 and the #1 spark plug and make sure that you're setting it on #1. Check the rockers and piston placement. What's the story with the diz anyways? Points or what?
Ok sorry, here are the details. The intake is a ford original form the 390. I have two identical carburetors (Edelbrock 1407). I have tried both of them. I am getting spark, I've tested by holding the wire close and it does arc. Gasoline is making it through the carb (i think) because i can smell it and it leaks out of the exhaust mani.I don't hink its 180 out cause i tried it 180 the other direction. the firing order is right 15426378 (memorized)
I'm not sure of your thinking fellas, but to me this seems like a little bit of way the hell too much gas. I'm thinking it's a good thing the plugs got wet.
I dunno...do you guys have raw gas coming out the exhaust before it fires?
I'm not sure of your thinking fellas, but to me this seems like a little bit of way the hell too much gas. I'm thinking it's a good thing the plugs got wet.
I dunno...do you guys have raw gas coming out the exhaust before it fires?
Not unless the cylinders are full LOL I'm still trying to figure out exactly what the symptoms are. Starts but wont run, wont start but is firing randomly, backfires through carb/exh, dipstick is puking raw fuel ??? lol ? So far I just cant put a picture together in my mind. Ran fine before the intake swap and now wont start smells suspiciously like a dizzy replaced in the wrong position to me. Did you attach the rotor to the dizzy shaft when putting it all back together ?
Yeah I missed that in my prior read about the raw gas coming out of the exhaust Manifold? I'd start from scratch again...and pull the plugs as mentioned above..and spay some brake cleaner up in them to clean out and dry any gas thats in them...
I HATE them edelbrock carbs anyway!! and if your dumping raw fuel into the intake..Check for a stuck floats..and turn you air/fuel mix screws all the way in..but not tight..and back em out a turn and a half...and try again ! I'd also turn the motor over while the pugs are out to dry out the cylinders... As you may have gas sitting ontop of the pistons also? JMO..
Reconfirm dizzy at TDC #1 firing, rotor is pointing to #1, pull plugs and spray them with brake clean to dry them out. Like Russ mentioned roll motor over to get rid of any extra fuel in cylinders.
Pull the lid off the carb(really easy as only a few screws on top). Make sure the float is moving and needle/seat is clean.
How about this: get it all back together, hook timing light to #1 wire, crank motor and point at timing mark. Should light up and show about where the timing is at. If it's NOT showing around 10 deg on the balancer, then the timing is off and probably the reason for not running.
We need to narrow the issues down to the basics so we can get it running.
Reconfirm dizzy at TDC #1 firing, rotor is pointing to #1, pull plugs and spray them with brake clean to dry them out. Like Russ mentioned roll motor over to get rid of any extra fuel in cylinders.
Pull the lid off the carb(really easy as only a few screws on top). Make sure the float is moving and needle/seat is clean.
How about this: get it all back together, hook timing light to #1 wire, crank motor and point at timing mark. Should light up and show about where the timing is at. If it's NOT showing around 10 deg on the balancer, then the timing is off and probably the reason for not running.
We need to narrow the issues down to the basics so we can get it running.
Agreed. Go back to square 1 and begin as if you had just finished the rebuild. Verify "everything" is as it should be timing wise. Then it's all (air/fuel/spark) should at least fire and run, rough maybe....... but run.
I just turns and turns and turns then the solenoid gets HOT, so I give up and go home with my tail tucked. The gas out of the exhaust mani thing didn't happen with the other carb. I am putting a 750cfm carb on a 390. Is that to much? The truck ran fine before my dumb *** had to start adding sh**. Gonna keep reading and adding replys untill i answer everything. Had a loooooong day today, sorry for the wait.
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