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It was time to change the oil in my truck; first time I was going to do so since I bought this truck. So I go to the store, get the filter and some Royal Purple and get home to find out that the guy that owned it before me had an Amsoil remote bypass filter setup.
I went ahead and bought new filters from Amsoil and of course the guy I talked to from Amsoil suggested that I use Amsoil oil with their filters. I figured it wouldn't make that much of a difference. But I decided to do a little research, and I read from Amsoil that their filters are basically super filters. And I read on an independent website that the Moly in Royal Purple can clog filters. Do you think I'll have issues? Should I just take back the RP and buy some Amsoil oil?
Molybdenum in oil cannot come out of suspension...it use to be possible (many years ago), but no longer. In fact, many people with bypass filtration using Delo400 and it is relatively high in molybdenum. That said, if I remember correctly, there is zero molybdenum in Amsoil. Personally, I like oils that have high moly readings.
I have the Amsoil bypass and run Amsoil in everything in this truck. Try it , you will like it ,or better your truck will like. If you do UOA it's hard to tell how long you can go on oil change, because of the bypass filters, nanofiber in the filters is the best in the world!!
Molybdenum in oil cannot come out of suspension...it use to be possible (many years ago), but no longer. In fact, many people with bypass filtration using Delo400 and it is relatively high in molybdenum. That said, if I remember correctly, there is zero molybdenum in Amsoil. Personally, I like oils that have high moly readings.
used oil analysis. Independent labs collect used oil samples of various brands, and analyze soot levels/lubricity/breakdown.
I'll see if I can find an example.
on edit: UOA's also refer to independent owners sending in individual oil samples to have companies such as Blackstone rate the condition of the oil after use.
Pat, molybdenum (actually MoS2 - molybdenum disulfide) has some real interesting characteristics, an affinity to metal...coating it...protecting the surface as microscopic overlapping platelets (down in the sub-micron range). It is added to oil by refiners as a wear preventative. My summer oil, Delo 400 has a relatively high amount (101 PPM) of MoS2, and my winter oil (Rotella syn) has about 60 PPM. There is a pretty fair treatise on molbdenum di-sulfide here. For what it is worth (because it is anecdotal), I also have run these oils in Class 8 trucks for over 2 million miles with no oil related failure...
If you are using any sythnetic oil like amsoil, you don't change on the scheduled intervals, instead you send in an oil sample for analysis and if it is still good , you change the filters and add enough new oil to maintain what you lost in the filters. The synthetics advantage with the bypass filtration is only realized in this method, otherwise using it is cost prohibitive. I have read articles of semitractors with this setup on the original oil after 500,000 miles.
Yeah for me the longevity in the tank isn't a big deal. And I've been reading up on Moly (thanks Neal) and I like what I'm reading about how it works. My problem is that I read that Moly particle sizes can be as large as 8 microns and the Amsoil bypass filter setup touts the fact that it has 98.7 percent efficiency at 2 microns and specializes in filtering very small particles.
I also found a table that does show that Amsoil is far superior (actually all of the literature I read on Amsoil sounds biased and like its the greatest stuff ever), but I feel like the big gimmick for Amsoil is the time between changes. Well not gimmick, per say, but thats its selling point. Thats just not that important to me I guess. And I was really impressed by what I read about moly. But I'm thinking that I'll end up going the Amsoil route for now, since thats what my truck is already set up for.
Have you checked into Schaeffer's oil? It also has a high moly content. And its not as rediculously priced as Amsoil. In fact, the full syn. is cheaper than Rotella syn. by a couple dollars.
Now that Syn Rotella is friggin' $22/gal at WM, I will be looking hard at Schaeffer 9000 on my next OC. The PITA of getting it is a bit more tolerable now that I can't get a decent syn oil at WM for $16 anymore.
... My problem is that I read that Moly particle sizes can be as large as 8 microns and the Amsoil bypass filter setup touts the fact that it has 98.7 percent efficiency at 2 microns and specializes in filtering very small particles...
Median (half larger/half smaller) particle size is 1.5 micron for molybdenum di-sulfide in motor oil...and even in oil with heavy loads of MoS2 there is only about 100 PPM (100 parts MoS2 to 1,000,000 parts of oil)...you couldn't block the bypass filter if your life depended on it with modern dispersed MoS2 in motor oil. We have bypass filtration on my class 8 and I run the oil 30,000 miles between changes and no clogging at all (and have been doing this for years). Pick the oil you like best, but don't exclude MoS2 supplemented oils based on the myth that it will plug a bypass filter....many truckers, like me, simply will not run without it.
PS...Schaeffer's 9000 5-40W full synthetic has 204 PPM and is considered by many the best oil for Powerstroke engines.
Yes, after Rotella spiked up, Schaeffers is a better choice IMO. I fully believe it is a better oil, plus I get free UOA through my dealer. Guys in the area run 12k+ with guidance on UOA.
Also, I got a few of my buddies on board. We are all trying it out. We bought 25 gallons of 9000 that averaged out to $19.11 per gallon, tax inclusive. Considering Rotella is $2-3 more per gallon PLUS tax, its a better bang for the buck, especially taking into consideration oil longetivity.