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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Need some help gettin started.

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Old Sep 28, 2008 | 01:22 PM
  #1  
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Need some help gettin started.

I don't know if all of you saw my first post which was on the 1950 F1 Truck that I recently acquired but I need some basic tips. All that I've done is replace the voltage regulator which I believe managed to fix the charging system but I don't know where to go from here. A couple of people have told me to remove the fuel tank and get that cleaned or add some extra fuel filters and some have told me to mess with the brakes for safety reasons. I just need some tips on where to go from here... please ?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2008 | 02:47 PM
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Maxwell,

first... welcome to the forum and FTE... you're just gonna love this place.... as for your question.....you're at a crossroads right now... decision time.

do you want to use your truck as a weekend/daily driver or are you beginning a restoration/rodsteration ??


if your intention is to drive it as soon as you can.... answer this...

is the truck running now ?? will it turn over

if the answer is yes... I'd do this

a: check the fuel source as mentioned... old trucks sitting for years with fuel in the tank have varnish in the tanks now and they need to be cleaned out... you can remove the tank, pour out the gunk (in an environmentally safe manner) and check the condition of the innerards of the tank...there are several ways to clean it... from a radiator shop steaming it out to Eastwood products... but basically if its not too bad I'd throw a chain or two in it... pour in a gallon of mineral spirits or laquer thinner and do the hokey-pokey with it under your arm... agitate it to loosen all the 'stuff' and rinse it out. a handfull of fuel filters is probably a good idea also... while you have the tank out... disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump and blow the lines out with compressed air... a little laquer thinner blown thru it wouldn't hurt either... put all that back together, put enough fuel in the tank so the pickup will...put in a fresh filter... disconnect the fuel line at the carb and crank it over... if you get fuel out of the line... good for you ... hook the line to the carb and your fuel system is ready.. if not.... back through the system and find the problem... could be a busted diaphram in the fuel pump or a clogged line from pump to carb...

b. if it turned over I'll assume you have a decent battery... just for fun clean all the battery cable connections... scrape off that green stuff and check the ground at the frame...fresh shiny metal is a good thing at the connection points...

if it's turning over and not running...you know you have good fuel 'cause you just fixed that ... check the points/cap/rotor/plugs... clean them all and/or replace them as needed..probably plug wires also... if you're getting fire after that...good... if not track down your problem... fire at the plugs ?? voltage at the coil ?? is the coil firing ?? basic elec troubleshooting here... don't forget the timing

ok I'll assume you're also an ace mechanic and you've got her running like a brand new one.... my next step would be

c. brakes... check for fluid leaks at all four wheels...check the m/c for stop juice... take a test drive down the driveway to see if they will stop. If you come to a short smooth straight stop...good... if not ... find the problem... lots of old trucks have stuck wheel cylinders.. if it's pulling to one side, check the opposite side for a stuck cylinder...... when you get all four wheels working together... move on

d. Check transmission and rear end for lubricant...

e. back flush and fill the radiator with good antifreeze... check the thermostat(s). let it idle for a few minutes and watch the temp gauge...if it doesn't run hot.... good.... if it does.. find the obstruction/problem
while you're doing that...

f. check tires overall condition...lug nuts tight......????? wheels tight on spindles

g. check/correct brake lights... turn signals are on your left shoulder.

h. all ok ??? stick some tools in the truck, take a short trip... half way should be no further than you'd like to walk back home. Feel the truck moving and listen for problems.. vibrations and noises will tell you the next thing to fix...listen for brakes dragging... wheel bearings grinding.. clunking in drive line might be universal joints.... gears gnashing ?? it's a ford

as your confidence in your ride increases, your trip distance can increase

have fun...

now... if you want to go straight to restoration/rodding your truck without enjoying arm out the window time... that's another posting and several more crossroads.... decisions about how you plan on changing your life patterns will be involved.... you should be concerned with the 700 billion dollar bail out as it will have effects on your credit limit....

later
John
 
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Old Sep 28, 2008 | 02:49 PM
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The gas tank sounds like a good place to start; get it running then do a brake job before you attempt to drive it. Once its driveable then decide on what you want to change or upgrade front/rear suspension, steering body work, etc. I've had my 55 for 20 years now and I'm still adding/upgrading however, the first thing I did was to rebuild my engine after I found chips of pistons in the oil pan, then got the brakes & steering completed. After that its been a little here a little there so it wouldn't seem like a big job with parts laying around. Beside I'm in the Military so I do a lot of moving around so the truck has to ready to travel when I need it.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2008 | 03:02 PM
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Since the trucks a runner, I would go with the advice of checking the cooling system, and checking the brakes. You don't want it to get hot, and you want to be able to stop. Take a trip around the block, after you pulled all the wheels and brake drums and see what else it needs. Most cops won't care if you are just going around the block, without registration or insurance, but use extreme caution. Next thing would be to take it down the driveway, go get some gunk engine cleaner, or even some oven cleaner, spray everything down and wash it off, that way you have a good clean working surface. I'd try to make it enjoyable before tearing it down. Some of the best projects are the daily driver projects that get a little bit done here and there while enjoying them.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2008 | 03:18 PM
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Wow, you guys are great! I'm documenting all of this for the class I'm taking (independent study tailored to my tastes in mechanic work) and I really appreciate your help. Sad news is, I went outside to try and take it up and down the driveway and I could put the truck in reverse and go a couple of yards I just couldn't seem to get it into first successfully. I would make it a yard or two and the engine would die. I took a look under the hood to find a big oil (or what I assumed to be oil: it was very dark colored) leak and now I don't know where I stand. It was holding oil pressure at about 20 but I think it needs to be up to 40? You think I have a leak in something?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2008 | 03:53 PM
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This is what it's all about. Try to where it is coming from. Is it in the top, or down below? It likely will need numerous gaskets replaced. Don't get too frustrated. As to why it won't go into first, that could be any number of things. Assuming it is the three speed manual on the column, you may be engaging it incorrectly. 20 lbs at idle is not unusual. I think most of the books say 5-15 psi at idle is within spec.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2008 | 10:07 AM
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I was only getting 20 psi by keeping my foot on the accelerator so the engine wouldn't die. I'll try and have a look-see after I jack it up in the next couple of days and see what's up.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2008 | 10:43 AM
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The easiest way to find a leak is to have a clean engine to start with. Do as wmjoe1953 suggested and clean the engine as best as possible. What I have done in the past to clean some really gunked up engines is to pre-soak the engine area and take it down to the nearest do-it -yourself car wash and pressure wash it with their equipment. It's well worth the $5-10 it'll cost you. You'll be able to use a professional quality pressure washer with warm water and you don't end up with a mess in your yard, it's all goes down their drain. I've also tow barred trucks to the local car wash if they didn't run.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2008 | 11:55 AM
  #9  
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take a can of compressed air (computer keyboard cleaner) with you... after you p.w. then engine pull the dist. cap and blow out all the condensation inside... left by the p.w.ing.. it will start much better that way. I wouldn't use mineral spirits or anything flammable... I've seen a few caps explode that way...

if the oil leak is bad enough... I wouldn't try driving it far. Had a friend years ago that had a '54 ford with bad rear seals... we'd put a dishpan under it when it parked to catch the oil and pour it back through... used nothing but used oil (drained from other vehicles at the service station) in it and it ran for years that way... what teenagers will do !!!


later
John
 
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Old Sep 29, 2008 | 12:52 PM
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Where is the oil you saw? Top of engine, side or dripping from the bottom of the engine somewhere?

I have a oil leak in my F-2 that leaves a puddle every time I park it. I've replaced the oil pan gaskets, along with the lower bearing seals but it still left a puddle. I have surmised it's the upper rear bearing seal. The engine doesn't drip while parked, I've only noticed the puddle happens right after I've parked the truck so I think the oil runs down from the upper seal but settles back into pan once the engine is turned off. I'm not going to go through the hassle of yanking the engine just to replace the seal. I can live with a little oil leakage.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 08:50 AM
  #11  
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If you're facing the truck it's on the left side of the engine, about midway down or a bit lower. Looked down in there and it was spraying out on the side, not high pressure but enough. It dripped a good deal on the ground too but I'm a bit confused because when I purchased the truck it was holding good oil pressure and now I'll have to depress the accelorator to keep it up at 20 and when I let off the engine dies. This is all with the choke out also. I don't think the engine is getting enough fuel so I have to adjust the car. is this correct?
 
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 09:02 AM
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Max,
You might get lucky, do a little checking around, perhaps the oil is leaking from an oil galley plug or the oil pressure gauge, or something like that.



Originally Posted by jniolon
Had a friend years ago that had a '54 ford with bad rear seals... we'd put a dishpan under it when it parked to catch the oil and pour it back through... used nothing but used oil (drained from other vehicles at the service station) in it and it ran for years that way... what teenagers will do !!!


later
John
John, When I was 16 I inherited a 1968 F-100 with a completely worn 360ci. The truck didn't have a hood and the engine had so much blow-by that it would cover the windshield. I took a couple of pieces of old garden hose and ran them from the valve covers down under the engine to a catch can. The old truck burned and lost so much oil that I too would get my oil from the waste oil can behind the service station (bugs and all).....

...and I thought I was driving a Cadillac


Bobby
 
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