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Alright, there has got to be a few people out there who have done these. I am installing a remote start to a 2000 F350. Everything seems to work except the remote start function. The truck starts up fine, runs for about 8-10 seconds, and then shuts down. It then kicks itself back on, restarts the truck for 8-10 seconds, shuts down, ect. It does this about 5 times and then gives up.
I am by no means an expert but had a similar problem with my wifes car. It was a used car so I didn't do the install. The problem was the wire for the tack was not making good contact with the wire it was spliced to. It would start then stop then do it again.
Probably not your problem but I guess something to keep in mind.
Right now, I am tapped into the white/pink tach wire behind the dash. I have tried simply unplugging it, as well as grounding it, just to see if it worked and all three gave the same result.
I am relatively new to this so here is what the directions stay:
"Connect to the vehicle's tach wire. The correct wire shows between 1V to 6V (AC) and fluxtuates with the idle of the engine when testing.
The wire has the same function with the high-voltage sensing input, so it is an alternative solution when voltage sensing input does not supply satisfactory operation."
Now, the truck will crank for a few seconds, but it will not start with the tach wire plugged in. With it unplugged, however, it is programmed to crank for six seconds. It then starts, runs, and shuts off like it has been.
It sounds like you have two wires for same function, either voltage sense or tach, both can let the module know if the motor is running. While the voltage method is simple, a tach signal is more accurate. Did you test the tach signal? When I was in school, we used either a coil or injector for tach pick up, both of these locations give you the VAC and can be easy to access if your tach wire doesn't test out correctly.