Newbie here trying to find out what the symptoms are if the ball joints on my 98 XLT 4x2 need to be replaced. Local mechanic shop here says it is needed but I just had an alignment done under a year ago, wouldn't they have picked up on it? There is no unusual wear on the tires, steering seems normal. Getting some creaks from the front end you'd expect from a 10 year old truck with 170,000 on it. Another question, how hard are they to do (I assume upper and lower he didn't say) or is it worth the $450 to just let him do it?
Thanks in advance guys, this is a great site, I was surprised with the amount of great info and advice I have seen here. Keep up the good work.

 

Welcome to FTE. The classic test is to jack up the front end and attempt to push/pull the wheel at the top and bottom of the tire. Push the top and pull the bottom strenuously and vice versa. If there is play that raises suspicion you need ball joints. It is best to do them in pairs and I view it as one of those while you are at it type jobs, so unless funds are tight, do them all. I've never done them but my understanding it is a fairly strenuous job and you do need a puller. The parts store may loan the tool if you buy the parts. Depending on the quality of the parts he's using, $450 does not seem bad to do all 4. If they've never been done, at that mileage and if you are keeping the truck, you may well want to consider doing them.

 

I just finished everything and can tell you some do's and don'ts. Did they quote you for upper and lower or just one? You need to pull the wheel(s) off and rotor, caliper,drop the tie rod. The big nut isn't too bad to loosen and remove. Take the spindle off hammer on the bottom to nreak free. Then use a vice and press the joints out.You can borrow the press from a parts store. I had trouble with the bottom ones and took them to a wheel alignment shop to R&R with the new ones. ($40cdn). I replaced both sides and the anti sway bar bushings also. Shocks were also done. Consider new brake pads as you have it all apart any way. I finished the radius arm bushings today which isn't too bad. I chose to grind off the rivets because I didn't feel like taking everyting apart again. I have most of the air tools which makes the job quicker. I didn't get into details as it will take you a good day to do the job. I'm not sure if your year replaces the upper or replace with a new arm with new joint? If you have done brakes and not afraid to tackle it,it is doable. Get the print out from your parts store which gives you the details.

 

for 450 including parts/labor, for all 4, I would jump all over that. Right now you might be saying "its alot of money" but I guarentee you if you do it yourself, when your 1/2 way through you'll be going, "I would pay someone 800 to do this!"

I just did a set for a customer, and I think we charged him around $1200, but that also included 4 new tires, alignment, Moog parts, and oil change. so 450 isnt bad.

 

I will have to double check if he is doing all 4 or what but I think I'm going to let the shop do it. Peter94, you're probably right about being half way in and wishing to have someone else do it. Thanks again for all your advice guys.

 

someone must have done 3 on mine because 3 have grease fittings and 1 does not. make sure that your new ones have grease fittings!

 

I guess I'm not getting a bad deal. He is doing all 4 and going to replace the brake pads (I am supplying) while he is at it. I will make sure there are grease fittings on the new ones. Thanks again all.

 

Might want to have your rotors checked/turned while you are at it. If you are going to be around you might want to volunteer to take them to the shop to have that done. It may save you money and the tech will save time if you get them back to him quicker than the parts delivery. NAPA's and similar shops will do it while you wait if they are not backed up.