[updated:LAST EDITED ON 25-Aug-02 AT 02:19 PM (EST)]Hello Everyone...

I have a few questions, and this seems to be the place for answers.

I have a 94 Bronco, 302 efi, E4OD. It has the stock auto hubs, And i am just wondering how they work really. I dont really understand the Unlocking them part. I always wanna know what the OD cancel switch is recommended for. Im only 16, this is my first truck, and i want to know everything i can


Thanks for any responses
Drilim

 

Well, I don't know auto hubs that well, but i can tell you this, they are much weaker than manual hubs. If you're going to do any kind of off roading, I'd switch them out. I'd switch them out, just to get rid of them. They have a tendency to break when you really need 4x4 (if they broke you don't have 4x4). Manual hubs are cheap and easy to install. The OD switch is for situations where the transmission is constantly shifting in and out of Overdrive. That happens when the speed your traveling at keeps going up and down over the point where the computer decides to put it in OD or 3rd gear. It's also for towing, if you are towing a trailer and it keeps shifting in and out of overdrive, than you need to shut it off. All that shifting puts a lot of wear on your tranny.


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Check out my Gallery for a look-see.

Then theres:
99' Mustang GT 4.6L
88' F-250 Heavyduty 4x4 351/c6
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 with a
3 spd column shifter. Weighs around 7,000lbs w. 65mph top speed, who wants to race me!

 

>I have a 94 Bronco, 302 efi, E4OD. It has the stock auto
>hubs, And i am just wondering how they work really. I dont
>really understand the Unlocking them part. >

Drilim,

Do you have the 4x4 shifter on the floor? Can't remember if that model had touch button 4x4 or not. If you have the floor shifter, the auto hubs do not unlock. The touch button is controlled electronically. They are locked in all the time. With manual or "Lockout Hubs", you can unlock the hubs by turning the hub to an unlock position. This will let the front wheels turn freely, which will save gas and put less wear on the transfer case. But, you have to lock them in before shifting to 4HI or 4LO. With the auto hubs, you use a little more gas, but, you don't have to worry about weather the hubs are locked in or not. I have used both, and have not had problems with either.

Hope this helps.
Bluehawk

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaythumbnail.php?&photoid=4318&.jpg
F-250 SD XLT CC 4x4 Shortbed; MAAP nerf bars, Rally/Lightbar combo, PIAA 1300 driving lights, Lund bugshield, Lund SunVisor, tinted windows, K&N airfilter, Access tonneau cover, Rhino Liner, remote starter/security system, custom built console, Cobra 29 ST/WX CB with a Wilson 1000 magnet mount antenna, Realistic 500 channel police scanner, Kenwood 10 disk CD changer, Compaq laptop, SVP 100 Watt siren, and 24 Strobe lights.

Upgrades for the near future include: Warn Rio Grande pushbar with a 12,000# winch, 4" lift kit, fender flares, and 35" BF Goodrich T/A KO tires.

 

On our trucks it's very common for the autos to break. Many many people replace them with manuals. The manuals are a snap, you just turn the **** on each wheel when you think you'll need 4x4, and when you need it, shift into 4x4. When you don't need 4x4, you unlock the hubs, this stops the front axle from turning, and therefore reduces any wear and tear on the front axle and also intern gives you better gas mileage.


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Check out my Gallery for a look-see.

Then theres:
99' Mustang GT 4.6L
88' F-250 Heavyduty 4x4 351/c6
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 with a
3 spd column shifter. Weighs around 7,000lbs w. 65mph top speed, who wants to race me!

 

Thanks for the replies. I had heard that Auto-Hubs are alot weaker, But i had also heard that alot of people had never had problems with them... If i was to trade them for a good set of manual hubs, How much am i $$ looking?

As for the the shifter, It is a push button 4x4. What are the main differences between the 4x4 and 4 low? Like i said, Im new at this...Really new, But i love my truck, and wouldnt trade it for anything at this point

Thanks
Drilim

 

Your hubs should unlock regardless of what kind of transfer case you have--(electronic vs. manual). If they don't unlock then you've got problemas muy malos

From what I understand, when you engage the 4wd, the front axles turn inside the hubs which causes them to engage. The probem with this is that many of the parts inside the factory auto locking hubs are plastic and they break over time. These hubs were not reliable at all. I would also suggest you change them out for manual hubs. Specifically Warn Premium hubs. If your factory hubs have three (3) bolts in the cover you need a conversion kit. But between you and me, my '95 Bronco had 3 bolts and I didn't use the kit and everything is working fine--my tires havn't fallen off or anything

To disengage the factory auto hubs you need to put the truck back into 2wd and then reverse direction for about 10 feet. I.E. If you are in 4wd and backing up then you should put the truck in 2wd and drive foward 10 feet. If you are driving foward in 4x4, then back up 10 feet.

To make matters even more confusing, the automatic hubs will unlock for about 10 feet and then relock if you reverse direction. For example--You are going to pull someone out of a ditch and your Bronco is already in 4x4 when you back up to their truck to hook up the strap or chain or whatever. When you drive foward your hubs will unlock and then relock about 10 feet later. So, if you cannot pull foward 10 feet then you will be trying to pull that truck in 2wd even though the transfer case is engaged. Did that make sense?

I hope I didn't confuse you more
If you have anymore questions be sure to ask...that's what we cruise these boards for...


Jon
1989 F-150 XL- 4x4, 302, M50D
1995 Bronco Eddie Bauer- 351W, E40D

 

Basically they lock, and then when you change direction they unlock. Which i think is crappy because you can hardly tell if it's in 4wd or 2wd. The warn premiums are around 60 bucks?


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Check out my Gallery for a look-see.

Then theres:
99' Mustang GT 4.6L
88' F-250 Heavyduty 4x4 351/c6
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 with a
3 spd column shifter. Weighs around 7,000lbs w. 65mph top speed, who wants to race me!

 

60 bucks isnt that bad for something that can be so beneficial it seems. Where can i pick up a set of these?? Or are they something i need to order?

I am also wondering what kind of mods would be beneficial to my truck? I am planning on a set of cat-back flowmaster duel, with 3 inch tips. Also, With time...A K&N filtercharger kit, But i have heard mixed things about them. Anyone have any other suggestions on how to give it all i can, As far as bolts ons go at least

thanks for all the help so far

 

I buy my hubs at Advance Auto Parts. You can also get them at Auto Zone, Napa, or most any major parts store. Just be sure to ask for the "premium" hubs--Warn also makes a "standard" hub

I have the Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back on my Bronco (2 chamber--single in, dual out) and am honestly kinda dissappointed. I though it would be louder than it is. It sounds ok at a idle and gets louder as you rev, but once I rev past 2000 it just gets really "raspy" and "wheezy" liek I am overpowering the muffler. If I had to do it all over again, I'd just take it to a muffler shop and have them put true duals with glasspacks on it--but then again, I don't have to pass emissions...

Jon
1989 F-150 XL- 4x4, 302, M50D
1995 Bronco Eddie Bauer- 351W, E40D

 

I'd forget the K&N they arn't that great for our trucks. You can easily make your own, and they are way over priced. I'd suggest an MSD 6a ignition, they are very easy to install and a great beginner mod, make some decent power w/ those. They are about 145 bucks.


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Check out my Gallery for a look-see.

Then theres:
99' Mustang GT 4.6L
88' F-250 Heavyduty 4x4 351/c6
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 with a
3 spd column shifter. Weighs around 7,000lbs w. 65mph top speed, who wants to race me!