Rebuilt my E4OD trans, now slow to engage reverse
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 7,952
Likes: 589
From: Greater Austin, Texas
Rebuilt my E4OD trans, now slow to engage reverse
I just finished rebuilding my E4OD trans this weekend (this is on my '93 diesel truck) and got it in, it works just fine, no more code 62 and I am getting converter clutch engage just fine. It has only one problem and that is that it is slow to engage reverse and when it does engage it kinda bangs it. It takes about 3 seconds to engage. However if you engage reverse, go to neutral, and go back to reverse, it engages correctly. It's only if it has been about 20-30 seconds or more since you have been in reverse that it does this. It did not have this symptom before the rebuild.
I have already adjusted my TPS, it was at 1.33v, I set it to 1.05v, drove it, set it up to 1.15v because it was hitting the TC clutch too early, and it did the reverse thing at all 3 settings.
Could this be my MLPS? I adjusted it myself by making sure the reverse lights come on and it starts or doesn't start in all the right gears but I don't have the tool. I guess if it was the MLPS it would do it every time, wouldn't it?
I have also checked for proper fluid level.
Any help appreciated.
I have already adjusted my TPS, it was at 1.33v, I set it to 1.05v, drove it, set it up to 1.15v because it was hitting the TC clutch too early, and it did the reverse thing at all 3 settings.
Could this be my MLPS? I adjusted it myself by making sure the reverse lights come on and it starts or doesn't start in all the right gears but I don't have the tool. I guess if it was the MLPS it would do it every time, wouldn't it?
I have also checked for proper fluid level.
Any help appreciated.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 813
Likes: 1
From: foristell, missouri
my e40d did the exact same thing. had a tranny guy look at it and he said it could be a pump of some sort?????? i dunno im not familiar with trannys but he said without a complete rebuild he couldnt diagnose it. i drove it like that for 3 yrs, no problems, toed all kinds of weight.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,026
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From: Belle Mead NJ
I bought a used rebult one, and it does the same thing, im guessing something to do with either the solinoid pack or electronics. Its wierd that yours didnt have it and now it does. What did you change in the rebuild?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Greater Austin, Texas
I did all the upgrades: center support bearing, all steel planets, replaced all sprags, hardened drive shell, sonnax od snap ring, of course all seals, clutches, steels, thrust bearings and washers, all new bushings, the whole deal. I took out all the valves in the valve body to check for broken springs and put back together. I replaced the pump with a 95-up big pump and put new gears and bushings in it and replaced the drainback and boost valves. If we could figure this out we can fix a bunch of trucks. Mine is intermittant like themoparkids, it doesn't do it every time.
Transmission Rebuilder
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,569
Likes: 62
From: North Georgia
On the valve body there is a small metal plate at the bottom, it has three 8mm bolts holding it down, it seals the low reverse clutch circuit. Make sure these three bolts are tight, they are easy to miss.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 92
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Mine does the same thing as well.....
I will have to check the valve body like you say JK...Thx man
I will have to check the valve body like you say JK...Thx man
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 7,952
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From: Greater Austin, Texas
Yeah, JK, those hold the seperator plate down. I for sure torqued those because I forgot them when I first put the valve bodies and solenoid pack in, then remembered and did them just before I put the pan on.
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Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 7,952
Likes: 589
From: Greater Austin, Texas
I am also noticing my 2-3 shift is slow compared to the 1-2 and 3-4, which are nice and crisp. I am thinking I have a problem with the direct clutch - perhaps the accumulator valve? I took all the valves out of the VB to check the springs, maybe I got it in wrong or the springs are tangled?
Transmission Rebuilder
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,569
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From: North Georgia
When you updated the center support did it come complete bolted together or did you bolt the steel support part to the aluminum half?
I have had them come with the bolts loose right out of the box.
One more thing, the bolts that go through the case to center support, it is possible to tighten them too much and warp the case and cause crossleaks in that area. This area feeds the direct clutch and the direct clutch has to apply for reverse also.
I have had them come with the bolts loose right out of the box.
One more thing, the bolts that go through the case to center support, it is possible to tighten them too much and warp the case and cause crossleaks in that area. This area feeds the direct clutch and the direct clutch has to apply for reverse also.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Greater Austin, Texas
jk, I only got the carrier part, I had to bolt it to the existing support. Is there supposed to be a gasket between the carrier and support? I see a gasket in my kit that is for that but my truck did not have one in there already so I went without it. Could this be causing leakage?
I tightened the bolts to the specified torque unless my torque wrench is out of whack.
Sure sounds like this is not an uncommon problem.
I tightened the bolts to the specified torque unless my torque wrench is out of whack.
Sure sounds like this is not an uncommon problem.