my definatly wont be a daily driver, thats for sure!!

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 09-Nov-02 AT 00:06 AM (EST)]I just started reading this thread and saw where orange peel was going to try and heat up some pvc pipe to bend it.I do not think that is a good idea.If you go to a plumbing supply store you will see all sorts of fittings to glue and by using 2or more 45 deg angles you can offset them to get any angle you want.there are also different angles such as 22's,90's,long and short angles and they also come with with male and female ends.A 45 with a male and female end is called a "street"or "slip" 45.Don't ask why,I don't know.
You can also get a rubber coupling that is straight,angled,and even reduce or increase as needed.The rubber fitting is made by Fernco and uses hose clamps to connect it.I think the Fernco fittings would make the connection to the carb and/or filter easier.If you go to a Plumbing or HVAC supply store you can find several ideas.I wouldn't want to heat PVC,very Carcinogenic.
Make sure if you use PVC and glue it that you get clear primer unless you want purple joints.PVC primer will eat paint and burn also.The primer and glue are very flammable,be careful.If you do a good job gluing and fitting it,it will last a long time.Another option is ABS(the black pipe),although it is softer and heat could distort it.ABS pipe has it's own glue.Here's a link to a plumbing supply place:

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pvc.html

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/flexibleconnectors.html

 

im curious as to why you think heating and bending the pipe would be a bad idea? the only problem i would see is reducing strength and i dont think im going to be ramming my snorkle into trees and i doubt the carb will pull enough air to make the pipe cave in either.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 09-Nov-02 AT 02:37 AM (EST)]I may be wrong but I dont think it will be worth the aggravation involved in trying to get it to bend uniformly,as it will want to start burning and wrinkling and separating causing small holes to form.I also spent a lot of years using pvc as a plumber and it's not very nice stuff when it gets hot.It gives off nasty poisonous fumes.
If you can do it then more power to you,I just don't think it's worth it.
If you do try it make sure you use schedule 40 pipe as it is thicker walled and sturdier than scedule 35

 

ill probably try the heating and bending on a peice of scrap PVC, we'll see how that goes. thanks a bunch for the info!

 

I have to agree with Ghost, PVC doesn't take to kindly to bending. Even when heated, it tends to want to collapse and fold. A 45* angle should be pretty close to the windshield angle on your truck, I know it is on mine. I am getting ready to do this, using 4" pvc. I have settled on using a dodge airbox, that will just clamp on top of my carb, and using a piece of metal dryer duct to connct the pipe to the box.

Jared

 

orange peel,

I've tried bending PVC a long time ago and it didn't work out too well. It was 2" sched. 40 and the problem I had was that it got charred before it was soft enough to bend. However, being older and wiser (yeah right) now, I think it can be done.

You could fill the tube with sand to keep it from collapsing, and use a non-flame heat source. Something like an electric space heater or heat lamps. The bigger the diameter, the harder it'll be to bend since you have to keep a larger area heated at once. The other trick is to get it to soften without burning.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out. I'd like to do the same thing but hate the thought of big bulky connectors.

Kevin K.

 

well, i changed my mind about heating and bending but now ive changed back. i guess i will still try it. but it wont be anytime soon since i still have to finish what ive got going on now.

 

an electric heat gun works well. The plumber is right, heating/bending is hard, but a quick bomb-can paint job will eliminate the nasty brown look, and appearence isn't number one on these trucks...what i'm wanting to know is, when you guys are attaching the pvc or whatever you decide to use to the carb, are you connecting thru the air cleaner, as in cutting a hole in it, or are you mounting to the air duct hole that usually goes to the grille? i would want mine set up so the carb is readily avail; read, quick disconnect snorkle setup. being a solid 14 hours from my truck, it's hard to picture how the setup will go. i think a big rig air intake cleaner thing would look tough, but it'd be easy to hit it against trees, etc.

 

The shipyard I work in has a lot of heavy equipment, and I toyed with the idea of using one of those air cleaners set on the roof of my truck, but #1, I'd get busted the day I rolled in the lot with the missing aircleaner on my roof, and #2, it would rip itself right off the roof! I'm not the slow truck on the highway, so I need low resistance.

Jared

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 13-Nov-02 AT 10:42 AM (EST)]>...what i'm wanting to know is, when you
>guys are attaching the pvc or whatever you decide to use to
>the carb, are you connecting thru the air cleaner, as in
>cutting a hole in it, or are you mounting to the air duct
>hole that usually goes to the grille?

For me, and I haven't done this yet, I'm planning on getting a taller air cleaner from another vehicle and running the hose into that. The stock 460 air cleaner is only about 3" tall. Like someone else said, I'll probably use metal dryer vent hose (or something similar) for under the hood for flex and ease of disconnecting.

I'm also considering running the piping under the cab and up the back to keep from cutting holes in the body. Something like this:
http://www.brayarch.com/~kevin/temp/snork.jpg


Kevin K.

 

that is a good plan. are you gonna run a metal pipe underneath, or stick with sch. 40? this idea would maybe interfere with those of us running stacks, but the snorkle openings could be moved to peek out around the corners of the cab so it's not right by the exhaust, kinda like those dumb scoops you sometimes see on MR2's.

 

I haven't decided on PVC or metal yet. The beauty of going underneath is you don't have to worry about bending. You can use std. PVC joints since most will be hidden. The drawback is you make a place for water to settle.

I did think about stacks too. I would keep the stacks as far out as possible and run the snorkel inboard.

K.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 13-Nov-02 AT 03:32 PM (EST)]that dual snorkle idea is pretty nice, i might have to look more into that. i probably wouldnt run mine underneath though, something about that just doesnt appeal to me very well. im about finished with the 1ton swap, i guess ill look into snorkle next, unless something more important (drivetrain) comes up.

im still confused on what to do when driving in the rain and other wet condisions though, it seems to me that all the rain would enter the snorkle and get sucked right into the air cleaner and into the carb.

 

I've been thinking about the water issue, too, and I think I have found a solution: Where the pipe passes through the fender, in between the inner and outer fenders, I will drill a 1/2" hole, with a check valve. Any water will have just been thrown out of the air by the 90* bend into the fender, and so will just run out the bottom. I'll use the check valve so if I go into anything that goes up to that height (about 4' on my truck!) it will not drown out. My only reason for running the snorkle, btw, is because my truck throws all the water from the front tires forward. I sealed my ignition system, but water still gets in through my air cleaner, and kills the motor. Also, it takes about a week to plug my k&n filter with road crud. I checked the whole thing out, and it's spraying the water right through the grill and radiator, so skidplates won't keep out the water. In anything more than 6", it's a tidal wave coming over the hood!

Jared