When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Im have two C6 trans, Im adapting my 2wd trans to a 4wd and doing a rebuild while im in there.
I have two servos a N and a L code, can someone tell me what one is better if possible.
I also have two band levers a A and a B code whats the better of the two, or a list of ratios for these.
will have to see if I can find the list of the servo's themselves but the levers are supposed to be labelled A-F with A being the softest and F being the stronger apply lever. So the B would be a better holding version then the A (there is also some others that I can't find where they fit in that list but only found a couple of J coded ones)
In visual comparison the B lever has the notches cut into it closer to the pin, about 1/16 of an inch. The F code lever has the notches cut almost as close to the pin as possible.
I should just shell out the green but im on a budget and a R code servo's are $$$. But I can always change to a R code servo when the trans in in the truck.
I only have one servo out, but I would imagine the difference between codes would be how large the piston is. Correct?
I was looking around and I see that sonnax makes a FF lever. Like you said previously, they say that you shouldnt use a r code servo with these levers.
My plan is to just use the B lever and N servo and throw in a R code down the road. Because im going to be building the trans with a HD band and friction/steel, added clutches, and a shift kit.
Not to dig up old graves, but Google brought me here
I'm about to embark on rebuilding my c6. It seems most kits don't come with a servo, band, bushings, or torrington bearings. I'm definitely planning to get the bearing kit (only $15), but is it worth it to upgrade the servo to the "R" servo? Will upgrading to the wide-band be OK with the stock servo, or should I get a stock band as well?
Will I be ok using the old bushings or will I just have to find out during tear down (again a small expenditure at only $30 ish)?
It seems like the R servo upgrade is the most costly extra not included in the kit.
Whether it's worth the upgrade is mostly dependent on what it's behind and what's the purpose for it. typically for a stock to medium build (500hp or less) it's not really worth the cost for an R servo.
As to the bearings and bushings, unless the trans has had a lot of debris ran through it, they usually are ok. Basically check everything out when you tear it down and replace as necessary.
Thanks for the response and thoughts on the R. A lot of write ups say "do this upgrade because it's better" and weren't giving a lot of context for the final build. Even the manual I'm using mentioned it.
The kit finally came last night and interestingly enough, the band and bushings appear to be included after all (possibly not ALL of the bushings, but I have not laid everything out). I think I will get the torrington bearing kit and go for it. I believe it replaces 3 washers.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.