Hey Folks,

I hate to have my 1st post be a request for help, but I had no idea this forum was out there until I started researching this evening (and I apologize for the long 1st post...)

I have a 2000 F250 crew cab 4x4 v10 that has served me flawlessly for 170k (I hate to even talk about it.) My brother, on the other hand, has a 2000 Excursion V10 with ~ 120k on it.

A month ago my sister-in-law called to ask me to listen to their Ex, said it was whining. I stopped by on the weekend and heard a noise predominantly from the driver's side, just behind the front wheel well. My initial thoughts (since I haven't torn into a car in 10 years) were that the input bearing in the transmission was on the way out. Brother took the truck to the family mechanic, who said it was an exhaust problem.

The exhaust place changed $200 worth of gaskets and told Brother that the noise was coming from the transmission (imagine that...) Brother hauled it to a transmission shop, and they said torque converter was failing (which made sense, as that was the general direction of the whining.) After a new $1500 torque converter, the noise was gone.

Within a week, sis-in-law complains that gas mileage has dropped from 12 to high 7's. I immediately suspect wrong converter was installed, or that lock-up isn't working.

This afternoon, Brother and family stop by the house as they are on the way to Atlanta (evacuating New Orleans ahead of hurricane Gustav.) I put the laptop on his truck, but it isn't showing any codes (no OBD, airbag, or abs codes) and the KOEO test showed nothing. After they got back on the road, I had him activate the brakes while watching the tach - RPM's didn't change at all, which I think points to the new torque converter not locking up (which explains the low gas mileage.)

I told Brother to check the fluid when he gets to ATL, and change it if it looks burnt. Knowing that the converter was recently replaced, I strongly suspect something is wrong with the new converter, or that the shop didn't plug a connector in after reinstalling the transmission.

Where should we look for loose cables, and are there any other tests we can run to confirm what the exact problem is? Thanks greatly for any input!

Jgarwood

 

#1- welcome!
#2- There's no input bearing on those transmissions
#3- It was probably $1,500. for the converter, labor, fluid, filter, pan gasket, etc....not just the TC
#4- Sounds like a defect converter or something wrong with the stall speed. The converter should most definitely have a warranty so make sure they call the tranny shop to let them know & bring it back asap. They really should spend the extra $ on a multi clutch, low stall, billet converter. They're much better then stock...and they should end up getting even better gas mileage.

 

I thought my lockup wasnt working due to the brake/rpm test but it was indeed locking up. Apparently these smart new computers wont allow the unlock for this type of test. Best bet is to find a nice open road and accelerate slowly and count shifts. Its a 4 speed, and if ytou get 5 noticable RPM drops your converter is locking. The converter lock was very noticable to me and acted very much like a shift with teh way the truck felt and the RPM drop. I would try this to check for lockup.

I agree a quiality converter would be great, but at 100K+ how much longer do they plan on owning this truck? May nbot be worth the investment. I do not see it improving mileage at all though. May even lug the engine some if you go with a lower stall. I would price a OEM ford converter. Sometimes factory parts are surprisingly cheap, other times though, they are absurdley overpriced.

 

You will get four RPM drops, not five. 1-2, 2-3, lockup, and 3-4.

The torque converter will unlock with brake apply only if the go pedal is no more than 10%. If it's above that the torque converter does not unlock with the brakes.

 

Your right you will feel 4. I got a lil overzelous in my counting I guess lol.

 

Mark
I have another question for you related to this, when i am pulling a load (9K)up an incline the trans seems to downshift then about 2 seconds later the rpm drops 200-300 and when the incline levels out it drops again. Which one of those drops is the lock up and which one is the up shift? Besides on of those custom rebuilt trans (BTS) what mods do you recommend to increase the load capability, durability and firmness of shift.

Joe

 

The 200-300 RPM drop is the lockup.

I don't recommend aftermarket mods. I don't have any experience with them, so I can't recommend any of them.