How To: 6.0L CCV Re-route
#31
#32
I found this to work quite well...
in the electrical dept find a 1 pvc capped bushing, it fits real well. This is what would slide inside a 1" pvc pipe and cap it off.
It has a flanged end so it won't have any issues migrating in the intake.
Press fit with light slather of contact cement along with a hose clamp will put to ease anybodys concerns.
in the electrical dept find a 1 pvc capped bushing, it fits real well. This is what would slide inside a 1" pvc pipe and cap it off.
It has a flanged end so it won't have any issues migrating in the intake.
Press fit with light slather of contact cement along with a hose clamp will put to ease anybodys concerns.
#33
#36
I did. I got the Luber Finer breather filter model # BF3402 that Riggz mentioned and ended it right about under the fuel tank. I can see it working occasionally when it's cold - there's smoke coming out of it - I get a whiff now and then but it's no worse (better?) than the exhaust.
#37
most if not all of the CCV reroute kits dead end under the cab or like Jim did run it to the back of the vehicle. i believe the reason bismic ran his back up the the intake was was for the vacuum to suck the gasses out of the crank case so any backed up gasses don't start mixing with the oil and contaminating it causing it to deteriorate faster. he did put a better inline filter in it to catch the oils and gunk that is in the gasses which cake up on the turbo and IC boots and piping. correct me if i'm wrong mark.
#38
most if not all of the CCV reroute kits dead end under the cab or like Jim did run it to the back of the vehicle. i believe the reason bismic ran his back up the the intake was was for the vacuum to suck the gasses out of the crank case so any backed up gasses don't start mixing with the oil and contaminating it causing it to deteriorate faster. he did put a better inline filter in it to catch the oils and gunk that is in the gasses which cake up on the turbo and IC boots and piping. correct me if i'm wrong mark.
#39
Sorry but I'm going to have to say that is wrong. The pressure of the intake over time will destroy epoxy causing that cap to be sucked into the turbo. The correct method to insure that nothing EVER gets brought into the intake is using the piece that was originally in the intake and epoxy a cap "OVER" it.
A rubber expansion plug you find at a good hardware store. The kind with rubber sandwiched between two metal plates. You have a nut to tighten to squeeze the metal plates together which causes the rubber to expand, which fills the intake "hole" like a champ.
I then used a hose clamp around the outside of this to ensure it will never move.
Works for me.
I ran my 1" ID hose all the way back to just before the fuel tank. I really don't see much oil back there in the 40,000 miles (47,000 miles on truck) i've put on the truck since I've done the mod.
I can see the crankcase vapors when the sun hits the side of the truck right, and there is no wind.
I can really smell the vent after I change the oil. I use Shaeffer's 5W-40 synthetic and it is rather aromatic for the first 1,000 miles or so after the oil change.
#40
Or you could use:
A rubber expansion plug you find at a good hardware store. The kind with rubber sandwiched between two metal plates. You have a nut to tighten to squeeze the metal plates together which causes the rubber to expand, which fills the intake "hole" like a champ.
I then used a hose clamp around the outside of this to ensure it will never move.
Works for me.
I ran my 1" ID hose all the way back to just before the fuel tank. I really don't see much oil back there in the 40,000 miles (47,000 miles on truck) i've put on the truck since I've done the mod.
I can see the crankcase vapors when the sun hits the side of the truck right, and there is no wind.
I can really smell the vent after I change the oil. I use Shaeffer's 5W-40 synthetic and it is rather aromatic for the first 1,000 miles or so after the oil change.
A rubber expansion plug you find at a good hardware store. The kind with rubber sandwiched between two metal plates. You have a nut to tighten to squeeze the metal plates together which causes the rubber to expand, which fills the intake "hole" like a champ.
I then used a hose clamp around the outside of this to ensure it will never move.
Works for me.
I ran my 1" ID hose all the way back to just before the fuel tank. I really don't see much oil back there in the 40,000 miles (47,000 miles on truck) i've put on the truck since I've done the mod.
I can see the crankcase vapors when the sun hits the side of the truck right, and there is no wind.
I can really smell the vent after I change the oil. I use Shaeffer's 5W-40 synthetic and it is rather aromatic for the first 1,000 miles or so after the oil change.
#41
I'll throw my hat into the ring by adding the the CCV can be terminated into the exhaust. The odor/fumes will go out the tail pipe plus, as an added benefit, there may be an increase in horse power.
Take look here for more:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ccv-flack.html
Take look here for more:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ccv-flack.html
#42
I used a 3/4" slip PVC Plug and a hose clamp, no epoxy needed.
I routed the exhaust tube under the stock air box. Poked the 1" tube just under the zoodad opening and installed a chrome 1" CCV filter/vent that was used on the old Chevy 350 valve cover. The intake will slightly draw the stinky exhaust from the crank case when running, I am confident that the filter element I purchased will catch the oil residue.
Just another experiment on re-routing the CCV exhaust.
I routed the exhaust tube under the stock air box. Poked the 1" tube just under the zoodad opening and installed a chrome 1" CCV filter/vent that was used on the old Chevy 350 valve cover. The intake will slightly draw the stinky exhaust from the crank case when running, I am confident that the filter element I purchased will catch the oil residue.
Just another experiment on re-routing the CCV exhaust.
#43
#45