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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 01:51 PM
  #1  
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Rotor won't budge

Help! The rear rotors on my 2002 F-250 won't budge. I have hit it many times with the hammer, rotated it and hit it a few more times. I even tried a few four letter words, but apparently this truck doesn't have that option installed. I sprayed WD-40 on it about one hour ago, still nothing. Any suggestions? Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 01:53 PM
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I am not trying to offend you or anything, but is the park brake released? I have seen a few people have this issue and find out that they forgot to release the park brake.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 01:55 PM
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in time like these, i try a bigger hammer. seriously. i had the same problems on my 450 and i used a 5lb sledge, and slowly but surely it came off. keep whacking away. also when you get them off i took my palm sander and sanded off the superficial rust and applied some anti sieze when installing the new rotors. good luck. and if need be, try some new curse words
 
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 01:59 PM
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Yep, parking brake off and tranny in N.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 02:03 PM
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Is you truck on lift. I'd never have both rear wheels off the ground and the truck in N. Even with chock blocks. I can be paranoid at times, especially when i'm working under the rear of a big ole truck.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 02:12 PM
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The sledge hammer trick worked...thanks! However now that it is off, I notice that this truck also has drum brakes within the rotor.!.! When should those be replaced? It looks like about 4mm (give or take) is left on those. Who knew???? None of the rear brake threads on FTE ever mentioned drum brakes with the rotor/pads.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 02:14 PM
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Or are those the parking/emergency brakes???
 
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by pminne
Or are those the parking/emergency brakes???
That is what they are.... The park brake/emergency brake. There isn't much material on them from the beginning, so you should be good.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 03:12 PM
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I realize you got the off already. But i have spun all the lug nuts loose one full turn. Then rip it around the block, jumping on the brakes and turning. Worked for me every time, just don't go far. Somtimes they brake free before i make it out of my driveway.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 03:42 PM
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great tip for next time (doing the Exploder this weekend)
 
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 05:21 PM
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I sketched up a rig that worked for me when I did my '02 rear brakes back in July. See Post #14 in the link below.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6371419
 
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by danskool
I realize you got the off already. But i have spun all the lug nuts loose one full turn. Then rip it around the block, jumping on the brakes and turning. Worked for me every time, just don't go far. Somtimes they brake free before i make it out of my driveway.
This is only a good idea if you want busted wheel studs and chewed up wheels from them flopping around on the studs. BFH and penetrating oil get the job done. pminne, check the drum part of the rotor for cracks- both of mine had several cracks in them and I'm now stuck truckless until I can scrap the $ together to get all the parts needed.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4
This is only a good idea if you want busted wheel studs and chewed up wheels from them flopping around on the studs. BFH and penetrating oil get the job done. pminne, check the drum part of the rotor for cracks- both of mine had several cracks in them and I'm now stuck truckless until I can scrap the $ together to get all the parts needed.
Been doing it since i was a youngster. Never had anything you stated. I never never never have ever replaced a stud for any reason. See no damage on my aluminum rims. (only one turn) the angle of the lug nut is still engaged in the rim. I mentioned, don't go far. You don't run like a race horse with loose lug nuts. Just stopping and starting, turning the wheel this way, that way. etc. SO ok. BFH on stuck rotors. One could argue pounding on rotors, 1) destroy the rotors, 2) What does it do to bearings/balljoints beating the dickens out of them. etc. Um lets see. New stud, $5.00? What is a bearing cost in the rear axle if you crack a bearing race? I am talking about rocking and jingling things free and potentially saving a good rotor

I even seen a bunch of dealer guys trying to get a rim loose in the parking lot this way. I never saw a big Sledge pulled out of the tool box and if i did i would be complaining to the manager. They make 3 finger pullers also. Mine is a 12 ton. That works good to.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 08:29 PM
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I usually use an air hammer, and inbetween the studs i hammer on it. The vibrations usually knock all the crap loose and the rotor comes off. But if you don't have an air hammer just ignore this.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 08:38 PM
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Dan, to each his own, but I'll still never try your method on my own truck. When I say use the BFH, I'm not talking about taking a full swing and smacking the rotor as hard as you can. All I did was take the BFH and make short strokes from about 3-4" back and hit the center of the rotor near the wheel studs until the rust/dust crud that had froze the rotor to the hub freed up and the rotor popped off. I'm not much of a barbarian when it comes to working on my stuff because I don't like breaking stuff, but sometimes you just gotta get out the BFH and go to work.
 
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