high idle
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high idle
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 30-Jun-01 AT 02:27 AM (EST)[/font][p]hello all, i have a question on the correct idle speed for a 302 in a 92 F-150 5 speed. also are there any adjustments that can be made, its fuel injected. the screw on the likage is backed all the way off and it still idles at 1500, which seems awful high. thanks in advance for any help you can give me.
Also just recently my check engine light has been coming on, its pretty much on all the time the past couple of days. the oil pressure, water temp, and alternator gauges are good, and i have fairly new plugs, wires, coil, idle bybass valve, ignition mod. any ideas where the best place to start looking is, i have had no loss in power, or anything else.
Also just recently my check engine light has been coming on, its pretty much on all the time the past couple of days. the oil pressure, water temp, and alternator gauges are good, and i have fairly new plugs, wires, coil, idle bybass valve, ignition mod. any ideas where the best place to start looking is, i have had no loss in power, or anything else.
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high idle
Check your idle air control motor on the side of the upper intake by the throttle body. The valve in one end of it may be gunked up and stuck wide open. The computer controls the idle speed by running that thing one way or the other to vary the amount of air that bypasses the closed throttle plate. Also check the wiring, not unplugged or something like that. To clean the valve, use carb cleaner, but keep it valve side down so cleaner doesn't go up the shaft into the motor/solenoid itself.
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high idle
Your idle should require no mechanical adjustment since it is controlled by the computer (EEC) by means of the bypass valve. Job #1 for all idle problems is to thoroughly clean the throttle valve(butterfly) and throat where the valve makes contact. Gunked up butterfly valves/throats are notorious for causing idle problems on fuel injected Fords since the bypass valve cannot accommodate the need for additional air. Needless to say, get the readout from your computer to find out why the CHECH ENGINE light is on. A bad sensor is a real possibility. Would like to know how your story ends. Please share the happy ending.
Good Luck
Good Luck
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high idle
Did you check the idle air bypass valve? Also, the TPS (throttle position sensor) could be acting up. Check for codes. You can do this yourself or take it to a mechanic and pay $70.00 Let me know if you come up with.
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high idle
My father's '90 Bronco had the same problem with idling high and after numerous checks with code scanner, re-adjsting idle screw, testing sensors it turned out to be a ruptured gasket that lies between the upper and lower EFI manifolds. I hope this helps.
Todd
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Todd
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high idle
hey thanks for all the help, i took it in and they said the TP sensor was bad, changed it, no help, i am going to clean the throttle body real good,
can i see if the the gasket between the upper and lower intake manifold is bad with out taking it all apart? thanks guys
can i see if the the gasket between the upper and lower intake manifold is bad with out taking it all apart? thanks guys
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high idle
I would use a carburetor/fuel injector type spray cleaner that is compatable with the OEM sensors and spray it at the upper & lower intake manifold mounting surfaces to see if there was/is a change in RPM of engine. If there is a difference between using and not using spray I would say you have a gasket that is bad. Leave all intake hoses in place so a faulty reading won't happen ( fumes from spray entering throttle body, causing rpm changes). BTW our computer code scanner (hand held unit) also told us it was a TPS but after using an ohm meter we found that the TPS was fine. I hope this helps in any way.
Todd
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high idle
yeah does help, but i am a little confused on spraying the cleaner. where do i spray it at, cause you were saying not to remove the intake hoses? or are you saying remove the two large hoses coming from the air box and spray there?
also, maybe you can help me with another problem that happened about a week ago. when i go to start my truck, all i get is a click. i've put two new solenoids, a new starter, checked my cables, replace the cable ends and had the battery tested, and i am still just getting a click.
also, maybe you can help me with another problem that happened about a week ago. when i go to start my truck, all i get is a click. i've put two new solenoids, a new starter, checked my cables, replace the cable ends and had the battery tested, and i am still just getting a click.
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high idle
Make absolutely sure you have good grounds. From battery negative post to engine block and also make sure the starter solenoid has a good ground when mounted on the inner-fender. Check starter mounting surface for oil/ dirt, MAKE SURE THE NEW STARTER ISN'T FOR A MANUAL TRANNY IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC AND VICE-VERSA, IT MAKES A HUGE DIFFERENCE!!! Check voltage to the terminal that receives voltage from ignition to actuate solenoid to supply voltage to starter, it should show battery voltage when ignition is turned to the start position. I hope this helps in any way.
Todd
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