today, my rear tank spring a leak and i have had it. i can't keep throwing money at this thing.

here is the list of all the stuff i have done for this truck. lots of good brand new parts on this thing, so i don't feel the blue or yellow books capture the value of this truck. how much do you guys think is fair to ask for private sale. also considering trading it against a new truck- any ideas of what i should push towards for trade in value?

New parts/service from Oct 2008 - March 2009:<o></o>
·Brake drums and shoes<o></o>
·Parking brake pedal, cables, and actuator<o></o>
·Steering gearbox / fresh alignment<o></o>
·Water pump<o></o>
·Radiator<o></o>
·Warn manual locking hubs<o></o>
·High pressure oil pump hoses, galley plugs, o-rings etc.<o></o>
·3” - 3.5” Tymar downpipe and no-cat test spool<o></o>
·Silicon turbo inlet hose and custom air intake (6637)<o></o>
·Two brand new Interstate Mega-Tron batteries<o></o>
·Fresh oil change (regular changes with Rotella 15w-40)<o></o>
·Transmission flush and change<o></o>
·Transfer case flush and change<o></o>
·Rear differential fluid change<o></o>
·Fuel filter<o></o>
·Blower motor resistor<o></o>
·The “famous” permanent clutch pedal bushing fix<o></o>
·Glow plug relay<o></o>
<o></o>
New parts from Oct 2007 till Oct 2008:<o></o>
·Beru ZD11 glow plugs<o></o>
·Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armor tires<o></o>
·Upper/lower ball-joints<o></o>
·Outer tie-rod ends<o></o>
·Front leaf springs<o></o>
·Rancho shocks<o></o>
·Front brake pads<o></o>
·Front axle U-joint
·Front axle seals<o></o>
·Rear brake adjusters and wheel cylinders<o></o>
·Fuel pump and hoses<o></o>
·High pressure fuel return lines<o></o>
·Power steering hoses<o></o>
·Camshaft position sensor<o></o>
·Fuel vacuum sensor<o></o>
·Serpentine belt<o></o>
·Belt tensioner pulley<o></o>
·New door hinges and striker pins<o></o>

 

Hey Eric I know this isnt gonna be what you want to hear but since I live here in Denver too, if you look around at craiglist and places wherer you find our trucks the prices are in the toilet right now. Now matter how good the condition or the mods. Ive seen a CLEAN 96 250 psd w/ 65k miles selling @ 8.5k @ a dealership just trying to move inventory. That and most no dealer or otherwise will give you any credit for the work youve put into it, its just concidered up keep and mods are worth little or nothing excpet to an occassional private buyer. That and I have friends at Omera Ford and the most a dealer will give you generaly would be about 6-7k if its exceptionally clean because I know the trade in value on a 96 f250 is 4k and they'll usually give 3k more for the diesel value. And that was with lower mileage -I just recently helped a friend trade one. and yours is a 95 w/ higher mileage. So its up to you. Unfortunately Id have to suggest waiting it out. I may have a temporary solution for you though. Do you know of Denver Used Ford Parts in Commerce City they sell a lot of real good parts for cheap. I do a lot of business there. They have a complete and good 94 PSD they've been parting out for a while you could probably get the entire tank and assembly Im guessing for $100 or less. If your interested PM me and Ill give you details of where they are and who to talk to and mention I sent you etc. and they will most likely give you a hell of a discount.

 

Eric:
Take a deep breath and consider one thing, You almost have a new truck, it would be a shame to give this truck to somebody else after all of you hard earned dollars, sweat and tears.

Your talking like your truck is a boat, "A hole in the water in which to pour money"

Just my $.02.

Rog

 

X2 what kawa said u got too much invested to just give it up. Get the used tank from the 94 put it in and good to go.

 

that's how i've been feeling for the last year. too much invested- can't get rid of it. there must be a light at the end of the tunnel...

knowing i still have a clutch, injectors, transfer case, blah blah blah, that could go bad (and probably will someday even though they seem fine now)- last week i decided that since everything was in good shape, i'd move out of it while i was between repairs and get into something with a warranty.

very strange timing with the tank given that i was planning on taking it to the stealership today. it doesn't look to be badly rusted- there is just a pin hole there. not sure whether to fix it, or just eat it. either way this boat is sailing.

i like the boat analogy Rog!

 

If you move into something with a warranty then chances are things will not be much better as far as down time goes.
Last summer my brand new tractor spent 3 months in the shop with warranty problems. The morons working there didn't have a clue. I kept telling them to replace the 20 dollar lift pump on it and after three months and nearly 4000 dollars spent they finally did and it fixed it. Imagine that.

My neighbors new truck, I won't even mention the brand, has had more recalls and problems than every truck I have ever owned combined in just the last 6 months since he owned it.

He was over here the other day watching me reinstall the injectors on an older powerstroke and asking how much it cost me to do it. It was an o ring and glow plug job. Total parts was under 200 bucks, including the oil change.

He can't even get his truck properly serviced for that price.

 

Trade ya my F150... =)

 

Eric,

It's a 14 year old truck, no matter WHAT truck you have, at 14 years old you will likely have some issues, and be honest a lot of the items you mention are general maintenance such as:

Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armor tires
fresh alignment
Brake drums and shoes
Beru ZD11 glow plugs
Front brake pads
Serpentine belt
Camshaft position sensor - Well on our trucks this is GM :-P
Two brand new Interstate Mega-Tron batteries
Fresh oil change (regular changes with Rotella 15w-40)
Transmission flush and change
Transfer case flush and change
Rear differential fluid change
Fuel filter


Which are mandatory no matter how new or old your vehicle is.


Several other are improvements and not replacements:

Rancho shocks
Warn manual locking hubs
3” - 3.5” Tymar downpipe and no-cat test spool
Silicon turbo inlet hose and custom air intake (6637)

Then there are these items which are unfortunate but not the end of the world:

Upper/lower ball-joints
Outer tie-rod ends
Front leaf springs
Front axle U-joint
front axle seals
Rear brake adjusters and wheel cylinders
Fuel pump and hoses
High pressure fuel return lines
Power steering hoses
Fuel vacuum sensor
Belt tensioner pulley
New door hinges and striker pins
Parking brake pedal, cables, and actuator
Steering gearbox
Water pump
Radiator
High pressure oil pump hoses, galley plugs, o-rings etc.
Blower motor resistor
The “famous” permanent clutch pedal bushing fix
Glow plug relay

Sure more can go wrong but then again $600 - $700 a month in car payments can go a helluva long ways in upgrades if you were to put them into your current truck!

My 2 cents...

 

Eric, I know exactly how you feel about your truck i have been there my self with my old blazer. If it wasnt one thing it was another, 6k+ later the only thing original to the truck is the body. i would have to agree with the rest of the guys and stick out, you not far from a "new" truck and it's paid for that alone is a major thing to remember. but i can understand there is a point where you dont care and just plain mad at it and want it gone.

 

i agree with mcdavidson. you have 275k miles on a truck and are upset about having to replace ball joints and batteries and change the fluids? contrary to popular belief, stuff on trucks does wear out over time. there is not one single thing on your list that shouldnt have to be replaced by 275k miles........

 

I would put a tank in it.
You pretty much know what you have and can work on it, assuming you do your own labor.
Payments are a drag......an older nice looking/running truck makes people envious.

 

You really don't need to replace the tank. It's much cheaper having it repaired and any radiator shop that's worth a darn can repair it better than new. The last one I took in cost me about 35 bucks to hot tank clean and weld up a leak then pressure test.

 

do not, i repeat, DO NOT try to weld the tank with fuel still in it....... one of my uncles was cutting a motor home up for scrap metal and a spark flew about 10 feet and went staight into the gas tank. it wasnt pretty. but it sure sounded cool on second thought, go ahead and weld it with it still on the truck....just be sure to film it and post the results on here

 

If you still can. LOL

 

Eric, i hear ya on dumping the money into it. i have considered getting a 99-02 super duty, but in my mind all the new parts i have put on it plus all the parts i still have to buy to put on are all cheaper than a new truck or a good used super duty. and this is what i still have to do..

tie rods/ends
rotors/pads
rear brakes
front end alignment
rebuild the tranny and put in another clutch(hoping 4 a dual disc)
find engine miss
glow plugs
GPR
batteries
battery cables/super duty starter
torque rockers
carrier bearing
tires
serpentine belt
power steering pump
turbo(before long mine is going to eat itself)
rear axle fluid change/ Detroit Locker/ Mag Hytec diff cover

the list probably goes on and most of these things will be upgraded when i finally get to do them, but in order to have time to get it fixed i have to get this '94 F-150 that i been looking at so i have a truck to drive while i work on mine and even it needs several parts.. It needs.....

fuel tank, batteries, front springs, ball joints, tires, rebuild transmission, and exhaust at the least.

i personally can't justify paying an expensive truck payment when i can do the repairs to both these trucks, plus getting the F-150 and still pay less than getting another truck PLUS both my trucks will look better and run better than all the new/newer trucks your going to go look at!!!! except the F-150 though, it will be more reliable than a 6.0 or 6.4 anyday though. It has a 300 straight 6 in it. hahahahaha