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Removing ignition cylinder WITHOUT KEY??

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Old Oct 20, 2022 | 08:46 AM
  #31  
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That original post is from 2009 so we are all just talking to each other
Locksmith is always better than a drill
And damn sure do not try to drill out the pin itself (it's harder than the surrounding pot metal housing)
It's a hardened pin in the lock cylinder
Its the tumblers that need to be drilled out so you can turn the key cylinder to on and push the pin
The tumblers are brass and the key cylinder is pot metal, so that drills real easy
 
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Old Jan 25, 2024 | 06:59 PM
  #32  
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Don't know about the later models but F350 84 and 85. Remove the steering wheel, remove the turn signal Plate 3 screws remove Handle for turn signal You will be looking at the base of Your switch. take a small Punch or Screw driver and push the pin. Easy. I learned this after drilling out the one on My 85. worked for on 84.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2024 | 07:21 PM
  #33  
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KEY STUCK IN IGNITION LOCK

2007 F550

When I bought this a couple summers ago the key was stuck in the cylinder. I didn't care and was able to lock the doors with the other key, so theft was not an issue.
It has always started with the key. I did notice that one time last year I could not get the shifter to move. I turned the truck off and restarted it which allowed the shifter to move.

I went out to start it this week after sitting over the winter. The key will not turn the cylinder. The steering wheel moves freely, shifter moves.
Note that the batteries were dead but have since charged them. I was able to start the truck by taking off the white box (ignition switch) with the lever in it under the dash.

I have a new cylinder but have to get the old one out and I have read it needs to be in the on position to be able to remove it.

Sprayed lubricant in it today and will see what is happening tomorrow.

Could there be an electrical component to my stuck cylinder problem? There were mice under the hood and they may have chewed something.

QUESTION;
HOW CAN I GET THE CYLINDER TO TURN OR GET IT OUT WITHOUT TURNING
 
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Old Mar 28, 2024 | 08:39 AM
  #34  
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You really need to start a new thread because most people on here will not read all the way to the end of an old thread to see what is up presently
That said, if your 07 550 is like the 99-07 F250 and 350 column where it must be in run to depress the pin, that means you just knock off the trim ring and drill out the tumblers so you can rotate the cylinder to the on position.
That trim ring is just the chrome or black piece that surrounds the key. Knock that off with a hammer and screwdriver, you will get a new one with the new ignition lock
You will want to try ti fish out the old key before drilling if possible
The tumblers drill out easy as the metal is pot metal with the exception of the tumblers themselves
Go slow and easy and start with a 1/4 inch drill bit and work up to 1/2 inch
Usually put some plastic garbage bag on the floor to catch the drill metal flakes
Be very careful to not drill too deep or off center and ruin the column
You only need to drill in there about an inch once the collar or trim ring is gone off of there
Good luck
Watch a video or two about the pin you can depress with the shields in place and replace the lock cylinder
 
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Old Apr 3, 2024 | 01:35 AM
  #35  
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Piece of cake

I know this is an old thread and I followed what some advice people were giving on here but I wanted to document it for people with the same problem. I have a 92 f150 with tilt steering wheel I lost my key at school because the cheap plastic ring broke so I had no choice but to fix it where I had parked it. First things first DONT TRY TO DRILL THE PIN UNDERNEATH I tried that but it kept moving and cutting into the steering column, instead break off the black outer piece that you use as the grip to turn the key. I just inserted a screw driver and pulled it back with a good amount of force and it popped off fairly easy then I took the top and bottom shroud off to get access to the bottom pin. It’s a little sketchy at first but I just started drilling into the slot where the key inserts. I started off with 1/4 then moved my way up to 3/8 going in about an inch or so then I just jammed a big flathead and turned with some force, it wasn’t too much, but I was able to turn it to the on position to press the pin down and take out the old ignition switch. I did this at my universities parking lot with just a drill, a regular drill bit kit, and some screw drivers. It ended up costing me 25 dollars (for the new switch) which is almost nothing compared to what the locksmith quoted me over the phone.
 
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