Removing ignition cylinder WITHOUT KEY??
 

Is there any secret to doing this without removing the column??
Anyone know where some good instructions are for this procedure without the key??

I can either have ten different keys made to my door cylinder for ~$40 or remove the ignition cylinder and have the right key made the first time.

I dont understand what the door has to do with the ignition. On both of my Bronco's, their differnt keys. To answer your question, I dont think there is an eazy way to do what you want. If there was, it would be eazy to steel the truck. (not that its that hard)

Last year I was trying to help a mechanic remove the igntion cylinder from a mid 90s f-150 that didn't have the key and going buy a book it didn't work out and we had to replace the column,it was hard to drill out the pin that holds it in when it is stuck in the off position and locked.

My ignition key fits the doors. Round one fits the tailgate.

later trucks use the same key for doors & ignition and a separate on for the tailgate

locksmith says doors and ignition cylinders use different parts of the same key to unlock, thats why i need both

Removing ignition cylinder WITHOUT KEY??
 

What year is your truck and does it have a tilt steering wheel? It does make a difference as to how it is pulled.
Post back with info ,I have the books with the info on pulling the switch.

Kenny

Lost your job yet?
Keep buying foreign.

its a 92 and it does have tilt steering

Removing ignition cylinder WITHOUT KEY??
 

OK the book that I have at home shows a slightly different process than the book that I have at work. If you are going to do this your self(which I assume you are) you need to get a copy of the Chilton Ford Pickups and Bronco 87-96 Repair Manual # 26664 ,the process is in Suspension and Steering page 8-17, it is involved but not difficult. I can take this book home an see if I can copy it on my flat bed scanner,but oh! i remember now I can't post attachments on this site!
If getting the book is not a option I'll see if I can type this in sections but I can't post the figure diagrams. And the phrase" A picture is worth a thousand words." is correct you need this pictures.
Hope this helps
Kenny
Lost your job yet?
Keep buying foreign.

So according to the Chilton manual I'm supposed to drill out the pin (with .125" bit) that you would normally just push on if you had the key to turn the ignition to the "on" position. Thing is, the pin is inside a bore and just spins when I try to drill and there isn't really room to hold the pin in place while drilling. After that I'm supposed to just drill out the cylinder with a .375" bit until I can pop it out.

This sucks. I really don't want to pay a locksmith $180 to rekey my ignition, but thats about the only way to do it unless I can figure out a way to pick the cylinder to get it to turn to the "on" position.

Does anybody know where I can get a set of door cylinders and ignition cylinder for a 92 f15 or bronco that uses the same key for when I do actually figure out how to remove it?

You gotta either get the complete set from a parts truck or take your door lock cylinders to a locksmith and have them reset to work with the key from your new ignition lock cylinder.

Ok, not to sound suspicious here but exactly how is it that this process even needs to be considered unless the truck is being repo'd or stolen? And guys, while we are on the subject, if there IS a shortcut it's probably not a good idea to reveal it in an open forum! Just my $0.02.

In other news, the door locks and the ignition key are the same key in 92 and 93 at the very least. Both mine were/are like that. And the round key rolls down the gate glass and locks/unlocks the glovebox.

"....how is it that this process even needs to be considered unless the truck is being repo'd or stolen?"

Umm, because I'm a ******* and have managed to lose all my ignition keys!

"if there IS a shortcut it's probably not a good idea to reveal it in an open forum!"

Fair enough, somebody want to PM me the super secret method??

I'm really hoping to avoid going to a push button start system w/ killswitch but its beginning to look like a better option every day.

There is no good way to remove the cylinder without destroying it. DON'T try and drill the pin! It is made to spin and deflect the drill bit, and you WILL damage the column. That bowl assembly is about $100 new if you damage it.

I've done dozens of Ford lock cylinders this way when there is no key:
-Break off the "wings" where you put the key in.
- Tap a large screwdriver into the key slot. Tap firmly but don't "drive" it in. Try to use a screwdriver with wrench flats below the handle.
- Force the lock to the RUN position while pushing in on the driver as hard as you can manage. This is to prevent it from camming out. Once it starts to shear, the cylinder will turn pretty easily.
-Depress the pin as usual and remove the cylinder. It will often come out on the tip of the screwdriver.
-Install the replacement cylinder as usual.
-Replacements come with only the ignition portion of the key cut. You can have a door lock decoded and have the key cut to match.
This destroys the lock cylinder internally without damaging the column.
There is a tool available that does essentially the same thing, it's called a Ford Ignition Bypass Tool and is about $50 the last I saw one.

Correction- The tool is $62 Lock Technology LT 78 Ford "Sure-Shot" Ignition By-Pass Key | Lock-Out Tools

I'd tend to think a good locksmith should be able to pick the ignition lock, but....

For those who don't know. while the door and the ignition use the same key, they use different sections with a single pin overlap. I know this because I had mine rekeyed, not too long ago.

I can look up my combination to see how many keys would need to be cut to cover all possibilities. Assuming 3 + 1 pins for the ignition, you'd need at most 9 keys cut, but because a key that don't work can be cut down to a few others, you don't need 9 blanks, I think 3 or 4 blanks are the most that would be needed to find the combination by trial and error.

There's no easy way to remove the cylinder without a key -- while it's possible to drill it out in various ways, it's easy to cause some collateral damage.

Being a 92, it uses a 10-cut key. I believe the ign uses 6 cuts and the door 5 cuts with a 1 pin overlap. There are 5 depth positions for each cut. I'm not going to do the math, but that works out to a lot of possible keys.
BTW, replacement cylinders are made to account for the overlap. You need to know the depth of the shared cut, so a door cylinder would need to be decoded first.
A good locksmith has a number of tricks to use, but picking a bar type ignition lock has the potential to be time consuming and thus very costly. It would then need to be disassembled and decoded, another time consuming process.
Shearing the cylinder and replacing it is usually the the most cost effective way to do it, especially DIY.. Ideally you would have the proper tool, but the screwdriver trick works well, IME. Those cylinders shear pretty easily, way more so than you would imagine.
Drilling is a very last resort, as parts of the cylinder are intentionally made with hard steel to deflect a drill bit.