I just bought a new cab for my 1966 F250 4x4 high boy but I don't have the key for the ignition. Is there a way to remove the ignition unit from the dash without the key. I would like to save it if I can so that I can just take my ignition cylinder out of my old cab and put it into my new cab. Any comments and suggestions would be great since this is a new road for me.

 

In a word, no. You have to be able to rotate the lock cylinder to be able to remove it, and you cannot remove the switch and bezel without removing the lock. Your best bet is to drill the lock out, going no deeper than 13/16ths. Best of luck.

 

You may want to try a locksmith to see if he can pick it or make a key that will rotate the cylinder. Otherwise it's like CD laid out.




John

 

Thanks, I figured thats the case. By not drilling beyond the 13/16ths will that prevent damage to the cylinder housing. I will attempt this tomorrow. Last thing to do before it goes off to blaster. eventually I will get pictures up.

 

13/16ths is the length of the key channel. That length will keep you inside the lock cylinder, yet get to all the pins and cylinders. You won't hurt the ignition switch or the housing if you do not go any further than that - but you must go in straight.

 

Thanks, this is why I like this forum so much. Quick answers to new adventures. Many more are to come I fear but that is what happens when you do it yourself to save money on these projects.

 

Tried on couple occasions removing the key cylinder by drilling thru the center and have not been succesful. On 1 occasion I was able to savage the switch but it was only a matter of time before it had to be replaced. If getting the truck on the road is critical suggest check resource for ignition switch replacement. The problem I experience is there's a clutch shaped pin at the end of the key assembly that can only go in one way and seats inside corresponding housing in the switch and the purpose of the key is to rotate the assembly to a position where the key assembly can either be installed, or removed. I was able to remove the key mechanism by carefully drilling thru the center but not without damaging the housing the key assembly pin seats into. May be more clear once switch is disassembled. If successful, suggest check the condition of the switch housing the key cylinder seats into don't want to risk damaging replacement. Anyhow, food for thought.

 

I don't know why the 66 would but different on numerous switches that I have pulled from Fords, you unscrew the chrome bezel from the front of the dash, pull the switch unit away from the back of the dash, disconnect the plug and the ignition switch is removed. It is a very good idea to have the battery disconnected while doing this. It is true that you have to have a key to remove the tumbler assembly from the switch. I believe that replacement switch assemblies are readily available.

 

Not sure about 61-64 but on the 65-66 the key assembly secures the bezel to the dash on one side, and the ignition switch to the backside; thus, need to remove the key assembly to remove the bezel. As for finding a locksmith, found old school locksmiths are harder to find than hen's teeth, if you do find one who is willing to make house call I suspect the cost may be more than the $40 for entirely new cylinder and switch.

 

Well I was able to drill the cylinder out and salvage the unit. worked like a charm but definately had to me careful. thanks for all the input. when the truck goes back together I am going to swap my ignition cylinder from my original cab so I can use that key set. off to the next step, removing the heater and stripping the rest of the cab.

 

what size hole did you drill to remove the lock set?

 

1961/66 F100/1100: Same ignition switch (C3AZ-11572-A). Same bezel (C3TZ-11584-A = reproduced). Same R&R procedure.

Switch same as 1961/66 Econoline & 1966 Bronco / Bezel same as 1961/67 Econoline & 1966/77 Bronco.

C3AZ-6222050-B .. Door & Ignition Lock Set-keyed alike / Reproduced

Applications: 1961/64 Galaxie / 1961/66 F100/1100.

Same C3AZ ignition switch (but not the bezel): 1960/65 Falcon, 1961/64 Galaxie, 1962/65 Fairlane, 1965/66 Mustang.

 

start with 1/8 inch and go up from there, do not drill the hole too deep... it's good to use a key as a guide for depth.

 

I am kind of in the same boat as the OP, but I have the key! Problem is, the tumbler has never been able to rotate to the ACC position. It has been this way since I have owned the truck. Now, the switch has come apart on the back side, literally separating where the plastic and metal meet. So I need to replace the switch.....which brings me to the problem of not being able to rotate the key to the ACC position. I can access the back of the tumbler/switch now that the plastic part has come off, but I have fiddled with it a ton and cannot get the tumbler to rotate counterclockwise and come out. Any help, ideas or suggestions are more than welcome! Thanks
-Patrick

 

Wow, just realized this thread was originally posted some time back; o'well?? The key assembly may not have been installed correctly, if so, position of the key and marking on switch bezel may not correspond. If you have not already done so, try inserting a paperclip in the opening on the face of the key assembly while at the same time rotate the key counterclockwise. If you have another set of keys suggest giving it a try. Finally, if the only solution is to drill the key assembly out then suggest purchasing switch and key assembly in advance, suggest purchase new if the key assembly was not installed correctly then the switch housing is likely damaged, replacing both probly cost between $40-$50. Anyhow, food for thought??