clockspring gone bad
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clockspring gone bad
AARRRGGHH!
I'm STUCK. I'm trying to replace my clock spring....I have the air bag out and all plugs disconnected. The last step attempted was steering wheel removal. I got a universal puller from Autozone that is suppose to fit my 1994 Aerostar, but the bolts that go into the face plate are too long (puller is fully extended before engaging wheel). No problem...I had some shorter bolts. However when I started the pulling process again, I striped out one of the bolt holes...it has absolutly no threads. So what would you do now? Its a long story but I think I also stripped the first few threads where the main bolt fastens the steering wheel back on again. The central pully bolt mashed it in a bit. Yikes. Anyone have a suggestion what to do next?
I'm STUCK. I'm trying to replace my clock spring....I have the air bag out and all plugs disconnected. The last step attempted was steering wheel removal. I got a universal puller from Autozone that is suppose to fit my 1994 Aerostar, but the bolts that go into the face plate are too long (puller is fully extended before engaging wheel). No problem...I had some shorter bolts. However when I started the pulling process again, I striped out one of the bolt holes...it has absolutly no threads. So what would you do now? Its a long story but I think I also stripped the first few threads where the main bolt fastens the steering wheel back on again. The central pully bolt mashed it in a bit. Yikes. Anyone have a suggestion what to do next?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SoCal
I've almost never used pullers to pull steering wheels. The typical trick is to shock it off. When you loosen the center nut, turn it out so that its top is about level with the tip of the shaft. Then, while pulling on part of the steering wheel, hit the nut/shaft end with a hammer. You should strike it as directly and hard as possible. The nut in that position makes for a bigger target. The wheel should pop off with a good hit.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
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From: Washington state
get a thread tap for the bolt hole. may have to go to the next larger size of bolt. metrics usually have a size inbetween US sizes.
get a thread chaser or die that will fit the steering wheel stem threads.
use a large brass, hard plastic or hard rubber hammer to try the shock tech.
believe all the steering wheel bolt holes on mine are stripped out and resized after 2 clock spring replacements over the past 12 years.
Harbor Freight is a good low cost place for one time use tools for the Aero
wait until you have to try and remove some of the underbody bolts
get a thread chaser or die that will fit the steering wheel stem threads.
use a large brass, hard plastic or hard rubber hammer to try the shock tech.
believe all the steering wheel bolt holes on mine are stripped out and resized after 2 clock spring replacements over the past 12 years.
Harbor Freight is a good low cost place for one time use tools for the Aero
wait until you have to try and remove some of the underbody bolts
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Got'er done
Thanks for the post, I tapped the steering wheel bolts and whacked the center bolt a few times and got the wheel off. Only took one extra trip to the parts store, so I guess thats a success! The rest of the clockspring replacement was easy as pie.
I'm replacing the flex pipe and those bolts where impossible. I had to heat with torch and cool rapidly, apply WD, hammer several times, all to no avail. Finally wrenched so hard out of frustration that the bolt just snapped. I was encouraged so I wrenched hard on the other bolt and it snapped off too. Whatever works, right!
So, off to the parts store to get two new (stainless steel) bolts....
I'm replacing the flex pipe and those bolts where impossible. I had to heat with torch and cool rapidly, apply WD, hammer several times, all to no avail. Finally wrenched so hard out of frustration that the bolt just snapped. I was encouraged so I wrenched hard on the other bolt and it snapped off too. Whatever works, right!
So, off to the parts store to get two new (stainless steel) bolts....
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Joined: Nov 2004
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Klau-Don't ever use the bolt type steering wheel remover tool. The newer vehicles like ours-the metal is pot metal/cold metal, like what they used to make 1960's grills out of and they strip out almost every time.
What to use then? Simple. 2 armed gear puller(with feet). At the 12 O'clock position simply trim about a quarter inch of the plastic trim away just enough to put the foot over the flange. This will allow you to place the arms at 12 and then 6 O'clock. A couple of turns-PRESTO-wheel comes off in a controlled environment.
Sounds like you placed it back on successfully GREAT. There might be another time or another Aero so I was just sharing what I do. The hit and shock method works perfectly. The only problem is that if you miss your mark it could create a stress crack along the tightening area of the center. You wouldn't want anything going wrong at 70 MPH.
As an added measure-I always draw a match mark on the nut of something I've loosened up. Always after you've just had something removed you should go back and re-tighten or make sure it has loosened up.
What to use then? Simple. 2 armed gear puller(with feet). At the 12 O'clock position simply trim about a quarter inch of the plastic trim away just enough to put the foot over the flange. This will allow you to place the arms at 12 and then 6 O'clock. A couple of turns-PRESTO-wheel comes off in a controlled environment.
Sounds like you placed it back on successfully GREAT. There might be another time or another Aero so I was just sharing what I do. The hit and shock method works perfectly. The only problem is that if you miss your mark it could create a stress crack along the tightening area of the center. You wouldn't want anything going wrong at 70 MPH.
As an added measure-I always draw a match mark on the nut of something I've loosened up. Always after you've just had something removed you should go back and re-tighten or make sure it has loosened up.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
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From: Atlanta GA
#5 bet me to it. FWiW: Try a little PB Blaster or Rust Reaper on the wheel. WD-40 is useless for most things.
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Here's what I did when I replaced my clockspring. I too bought a puller, and I also visited my local U-Pull-It junkyard. I took my trusty Aerostar repair manual and a smattering of tools, and practised my butt off on a series of junked Aerostars first, until I was pretty good at the whole routine of swapping out the clockspring. In the process I also was able to assemble a toolkit of just the essentials, which came in handy when I revisited the junkyard for more practise!
Then I ordered a factory replacement part (new) from a Ford dealer in Georgia online, and effected the swap flawlessly, and believe me I am no mechanic but it was fun and satisfying! This cured an airbag trouble code, horn failure and cruise control failure all in one swell foop!
Then I ordered a factory replacement part (new) from a Ford dealer in Georgia online, and effected the swap flawlessly, and believe me I am no mechanic but it was fun and satisfying! This cured an airbag trouble code, horn failure and cruise control failure all in one swell foop!
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addendum -- the puller I use is a bolt type puller with a small yet thick body, and it came with two sets of bolts, the shorter ones of which worked just fine. My Aerostar is a 1992 XLT extended with the 4L, digital dash and lots of other goodies!
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