My pick-up is a '94 F-350 with 7.3L IDITD. I recently(9-6-01) replaced the starter with a newer model after that died. The first thing I noticed was that the voltage guage is behaving entirely different. Before, it would drop pretty low when cranking, then after a couple of seconds find a resting spot around the "ar" of "normal". Now, the guage hardly ever moves and stays just past the "n"(towards the low end) and barely moves. I don't think my guage is bad because with the old starter the guage acted the same, but witht the new starter the guage hardly moves. The replacement starter is apparently a newer model than what was on before. Today, I noticed that it didn't seem like my altrenator was spining. I didn't check, but I noticed "smoke"(hopefully not smoke) from around the altrenator, the sound of a belt sliping(no squeaking though), and the wonderfull smell of a burning belt. I investigated this closer, then but when I started it up again the altrenator was spinning normally, no smoke, no bad smells, and no sign of slipage.

Does anyone have any idea why the voltage guage is now reading so much lower? Does it sound like my altrenator is about to need replaced? I really hope that altrenator is good for a while because that starter was expensive.

Logan

 

I personaly don't put a whole bunch of faith in the accuracy of "factory" guages, especially when they read "normal" vice numerical values.
Best way to check is with a voltmeter connected to the battery posts. Should have close to 12 volts with truck off and 13-14 volts with truck running minimal electrical load. Then with accessories on, such as lights and heater and truck at 1500rpm, gas engines not sure about the rpms for diesel but I am sure it is lower than 1500 , you still should have higher than the voltage you read with the truck off usually about 13 volts.
As for the belt it may be time to replace it. I would say tighten it but it is probably a serpentine belt and they are self adjusting. Besides it probably wasn't very good for it when it was slipping and you smelled burning rubber
When you remove the belt try spinning the alternator it should spin freely with no clicking, clunking or scraping etc etc.
Hope this helps.

Sparky

 

hmm, while I don't have a voltometer to test that, but I'll bet the local COOP can povide some assistance there. I will probbably ask them to change the belt as I have no clue how to, have never tried before, and don't particularly feel like learning the hard way. Besides, they are pretty much guaranteed to get it right the first time. I have read how to tell a good and belt, but that was a long time ago and I have since forgoton. It doesn't look IMOHO like it needs replaced, the center of the belt is getting pretty shiny though, which I think means replace? Testing the tension, it seemed if anything it was overtight, I quickly noticed that there was no chance of the belt sliping enough to let me turn the altrenator with the belt on.

Logan

 

Well, I got the altrenator off(getting in back on took a little while longer). There was no resistance, or odd sounds when turning it by hand. Is that belt self-adjusting for tension?

I took my batteries to NAPA and one of them was shot, specifally the one linked to the fender soleniod and probbably everything else, perhaps that was my problem? After suffering with the NAPA's horrible service, they sent me on my way with a new "fully charged" battery. Took the other one to COOP and they put it on a charger overnight. Got two fully charged batteries, put everything back in place, and it shows some sign of haveing power, but will not crank. This is starting to make me worried. I just put a new starter on 6days ago, and it is acting exactly the same as before the new starter was put on.

COOP is supposed to stop by eventually and tow my pick-up to their shop, and see what they can find out. I just don't understand what could posibbly be worng.

Logan