I am thinking about getting the kit from PS Shop click here to rebuild my motor. I have never done something like this, but I would like to learn and since I am really low on money right now, I think this would benefit me the most. I need new pistons since a few of mine are missing parts.

What should I check when the block is disassembled in regards to the block and heads? The motor was dusted, but it never gave me cold starting problems or excessive smoke. Also has anyone used this kit before? I am not looking to build major HP out of this motor, just have stock performance back. My ultimate goals are to have just a reliable DD/tow rig and pay the truck off.

Thanks in advance.

 

That looks like everything you need to have to rebuild the bottom end only. If you want to do the heads then it would need to have the valves included.
Also there is no camshaft or lifters in the picture.
.
I'm still puzzled why the recording you made sounded so much like valve train problems.
The frequency of the tapping noise was half the crankshaft speed which points directly to valve train because the cam is geared exactly 1/2 speed to crankshaft speed.

 

I was having some internet issues at that time, so I never heard the video, but after Dan's comments, I thought I remembered reading that your new lifters were too short?

Sorry for not paying attention, but did this ever get figured out, or did you move on after you discovered the modern art sculpture in the pan?

Edit: Of course the internet excuse isn't much. I've had to ask Dan to post different recordings before because either I have bad ears or bad speakers on the computer (both the old computer and this new one too).

 

How about Diesel Innovations - Products

Joe is running about 467 (or so) for a while now with water/meth, hybrids, towing, TN BB, blah blah.

 

I have not gotten the cam out to inspect for wear yet, nor can I see anything yet for cam wear. The more I think about it, I am thinking about buying a long block, then the work I need to do is already done. Also the price is the same as the link jason posted, except it is shipped and also has heads, though they want my core.I wont have to worry about having to measure everything and hoping. I honestly have not found the a problem yet, in terms of why the problem I have found made that sound. Maybe its deeper, hopefully today ill be farther into this motor to see.

The original post chris...https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-included.html

 

This is the part I was remembering. I was just hoping you didn't abandon this check when you saw the broken parts in the pan. I tried listening to the video but every time you moved the camera I kept hearing different things. I have to really focus to pick up on things in a recording, and I can't imagine a single thing that I could hear that Dan wouldn't have picked up on immediately.

 

Me and Kris just rebuilt my motor..we got all the internals block oil cooler heads...the heads were reusable cores...the block, internals and oil cooler was about 3000 shipped. plus we added a bunch of other go fast parts!

 

Cool Avatar Kenny.

 

That is exactly what I was thinking.

 

Well I think god was looking after me well this week. My buddies dad just got a wrecked 2000 f-350 motor is good, I am probably gonna get it for a cheap deal. Its got 150K on it. Going to start it tomorrow to be sure it runs good. Lets see what happens, but this may be my best bet for now.

 

Go buy a lotto ticket quick. Good luck usually doesn't stick around too long.

Let us know how it looks.

 

You get the new motor?

 

That was me, i think. In one of those pics i was the one power braking it, as he didnt have the ***** off the bat, so once he saw how cool it was, then he decided to do it again himself.

Anyway, you will need a piston ring compressor to get the rings shrunk enough to go into the bores, im sure you already knew that. I have the steel collared one that you tighten or loosen around the rings, instead of a tapered one that fits only one size. The piston is between 4.000 and 4.250 inches. Make sure you have all the torque specs, and a very broad understanding on how everything in an engine works. Get the cam lined up correctly, and make sure all the vital things are in place. I have no clue how competent you are with things like this, however since you pulled your engine and tore it apart, im sure you have the knowledge. Find a good machine shop that focuses on racing (that way you know they do engines, and their work is good), and have them check the block, bore it, hone it, deck the fire decks, and install the new cam bearings. (need a special puck). Take them the torn down, bare heads, have them magnaflux them to check for cracks. We took Kenny's heads for resurfacing and found out that BOTH had SEVERAL cracks in the fire deck usually between the intake and exhaust valves. It would be wise to have them clean up the valve seats and the valves as well, do a quick valve job. If you can swing it, it would be wise to do headstuds now unless you KNOW you never will get that far into mods. You can say it now but you'll get there one day, and wish you had done it. Even if you gotta borrow a grand from parents or relatives, it will pay off in the end. Let me know if you need any help or moral support, ive done this recently myself.