1989 Ford F-250 - Spark Plugs popping off?
#1
1989 Ford F-250 - Spark Plugs popping off?
Hey guys,
I need some help. My husband owns this Ford and just replaced the spark plugs and wires. But now everytime he drives it, this one spark plug keeps popping off. Why is this happening? And how do we fix it?
I really love this Ford and want to make it nice for him.
Any help would be appreciated.
Erin
I need some help. My husband owns this Ford and just replaced the spark plugs and wires. But now everytime he drives it, this one spark plug keeps popping off. Why is this happening? And how do we fix it?
I really love this Ford and want to make it nice for him.
Any help would be appreciated.
Erin
#3
If the plug is popping out of the head, someone stripped the spark plug hole out and it will need to be re-drilled and have a helicoil put in place. You have to remove the head from the motor for this, as metal shavings in the cylinder will ruin the engine.
It's a lot of work to do yourself, and a shop would charge quite a bit for this kind of work to be done, too. I would guess about $800 to $1000, mostly labor involved in getting the head off and re-installing it.
It's a lot of work to do yourself, and a shop would charge quite a bit for this kind of work to be done, too. I would guess about $800 to $1000, mostly labor involved in getting the head off and re-installing it.
#4
#5
If you are still having problems with the wires coming off, you could squeeze the metal ring that snaps onto the plug. If you look inside the boot, you will see it. When you remove and install a couple times, they get loose. Careful not to damage the boot when doing this as it may cause arching. Some auto parts sell individual wires and you could replace the offending wire completely.
Next time use Motorcraft wires, you won't have a problem.
Next time use Motorcraft wires, you won't have a problem.
#6
It also means you probably bought some generic plug wires. The rubber boot that covers the plug doesn't fit the plug real well and squeezes itself off. Crimp the metal ring like alz recommends and if that doesn't work spend a few more bucks and get a set of wires that fit better. If you go to a parts store and ask for plug wires they'll usually have 2-3 options to choose from each with a different price. The more costly wires are usually a little thicker (which is good), the lengths of each wire are closer to stock, and the fit on the dust boot on top is usually better too.
So if it keeps doing it and crimping the metal ring doesn't help take them back, ask for a refund and get the better set.
So if it keeps doing it and crimping the metal ring doesn't help take them back, ask for a refund and get the better set.
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#9
#11
it means you need to buy new wires.
more attention to the routing of the wires when they are installed is a must.
more expensive wires do not mean good wires.
what brand?
maybe it would help if he posted directly.
#12
If the heat shields for the wires have rotted away and are gone tell em to use wires build to run with headers, use good quality wires. And make sure the base timing is set to 10deg BTDC (before top dead center) minimum. Probably run better bumped up to 12deg.
He will need a timing light to set the timing, a vacuum gauge is the next best thing. It will show timing but is not as exact as a light.
#13
Depends on where they're burning. If the rubber insulation is burning then yeah, what they said above. If the metal ring that alz recommended you have him tighten is loose, the metal will arc and burn. I know this because I had this happen. My truck ran bad and when I removed the wires, the terminals were all burnt up from arcing.
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HelenB
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05-17-2016 04:38 PM