Just replaced the starter on my 2002 Ranger (V6 3.0L) and now it wont turn over...just multiple clicks...heard it could be problems grounding, how do i check/fix this?

 

Check to make sure the battery terminals are tight 1st. Also typically weak battery from that symptom. Enough power to activate the relay & then nowhere near enough to energize the starter windings. If you have a maintenance free battery, the indicator can sometimes lie too. I forgot how, but it happens. Check the water level in the cells if conventional. I had a nice heavy duty truck battery case crack on me and 1 cell was bone dry last year. Don't overtighten the battery clamps. Rule of thumb tighten until you can't force the clamp to twist. After that, climb back under & double check your starter terminals if necessary. Not likely.

 

12.8V on the battery, no indicator on battery so popped the plastic caps and filled with water, tight terminals, got under the truck with multimeter and got 12.7V on the starter.

Thanks in advance, whats next????

 

BTW: Voltage at starter was measure with truck off

 

Nelson, is this your original battery? If you turn on the head lights and try to start it, what do the headlights do?

 

Headlights pn, when you flip the switch to start the heads lights dim in unison with the clicking. They are fast clicks.

 

on**........I bought the truck used,

 

If it is one loud click every time you turn the key on, you are most likely hearing the solenoid switch working. That usually means a bad connection somewhere. Even dirty battery terminals can do that. If your connections are all good, the new starter could be defective right out of the store. I have had new parts defective before. Its not common but not unheard of either. If you are hearing numerous clicks, sort of like a buzzing sound, it is most likely a faulty battery. Did you try boosting your truck with a known good battery? If it doesn't start with a boost you know it is not the battery and I would suspect the starter itself. Check the voltage at the starter while an assistant tries to start it. If the voltage nose dives, you could have a short in the new starter.

 

Checked the voltage on the battery while starting, dropped from 12.6Vto 10V

 

Should still start with that, but in warm weather, that doesn't sound great. Starters vary though. If it's ok, it just might break into better efficiency. I know I hate pulling a starter back off after muscling it in, esp with extra mount brackets on modern units. And for the jumpstart bit, that doesn't always work if the clamps are loose or crummy on outside, etc. Pull the whole battery out & try a borrowed one. How do the cables look? Have you poured any cola on the terminals yet? Don't laugh. Try it. The more corrosion, the better the show.

 

Well lets see here, were you checking the under load battery voltage by placing the meter probes directly on top of the battery posts, or on the battery cable clamps????

If directly on the battery posts, it would suggest a internal battery problem, like sulfated plates, bad cell connections, ect.
In any case your favorite parts store should be able to load test your battery. If it tests weak, replace it.

Motorcraft makes a fine battery, the one in my 94 Taurus is 8 years old & counting, the one in my 99 Ranger is the OEM one & was 9 years old on 7-21-08!!!!

If the battery is ok & the probes were on the cable clamps, it would suggest a high resistance connection between the cable clamps & battery posts, maybe from corrosion, or excessive lead oxide on the battery posts, or the inside mating surface of the battery cabe clamps, or maybe loose clamps.

If it's the latter, service the cable clamps & battery posts, so they are clean, bright & tight, then do your under load voltage test again.

 

Check that the ignition wire on the starter did not fall off.... just did my starter and that happened to me. The plug in connector ignition plug is prone to corossion as well..so if it is on the spade terminal clean it and see what happens.

 

bought new battery, multiple clicking is gone...but now i got one click and nothing else......tried again and absolutely nothing......

 

it started!! it started!! Thanks to everyone, this website is the best!!......cleaned the ground from the battery and tightened it...truck started better than it did when i bought it..also changed the negative terminal, looked ugly.

Thanks again guys

 

Did you charge the new battery to bring it up to a full state of charge????

Are the battery cables, lugs & clamps in good condition????

Have you done a voltage drop test through them to confirm they're ok????

If you don't have a DVOM to do that, use a pair of good quality large wire gauge jumper cables, to parallel connect with the battery cables & see if things change.

If the battery cable clamp connections are good & things don't change with the jumper cables in parallel, the battery cables & connections are likely ok.

If you get improvement, then one or more battery cable or it's connection is suspect, so remove one jumper at a time & see when the problem returns & that'll be the suspect cable or connecion.

Once you know the battery, cables & connections are good all the way to the starter motor solenoid, try thumping it, then the starter motor & see if you can cause it to wake up.

If not, did you have the new starter motor tested before leaving the store with it????

If not, you could use the jumper cable to bypass the starter solenoid & see if the starter motor will run, if so you'll know the starter motor is good, then back up and test the starter solenoid.

More trouble shooting thoughts for pondering.
Let us know what you find.

Well I see you found the problem while I was typing.
Sounds like a new set of battery cables may be in order before winter sets in!!!!