O.K. some of you know my long time dabacle with alternators, for those that dont, here goes.

4 years ago my factory alt went out. I did not know about FTE or any other diesel board back then so I went to Advanced auto and got a remanned with a lifetime warranty.
Fast forward 4 years, 8 alternators, and 4 batts. I finally got advanced to upgrade me to a NEW alternator last summer, but alas it only lasted until april(on the way to Smokin). I got another new one in Gatlinburg (still honoring lifetime warranty), replaced the batts, and guess what ,about two weeks ago my batt light starts flashing at me. Now since this is not my first rodeo I knew the alt. was going out. I stopped and told the manager at my local advanced of my recurring problem, and asked if I could get my money back, cause I am through with their alts. He said nope, sorry, too long ago, but we will honor your warranty forever. I asked him about upgrading to a higher amp alt. and he said sure we can do that. this evening he gives me a new 160amp unit, and does not charge me an upgrade fee. the problem is the 160 amp job is a large case version and has some clearance issues with the bottom of my bracket. I take it back, and the night crew is there. the night guy just said no porblem here is your money back, and peels out $190.45, hands it to me, and says sorry it didnt work.

So I now have the money to call DB electrical and order up a high out put alt. but I am not sure if I need to get the 160 amp, or the 220 amp.
I do have a stereo system in the truck(2, 10's, 400 watt amp etc) 110 watt lights up front, 55w back up lights, FASS pump, guages, CB,(linear has been removed), and of course I tow my 5er(we all know the center pin in the 7way is power to charge the camper batt)
Do i need the 220amp, or is it overkill?

sorry for the long rant.

 

Its never overkill. Just look at it this way,you can add more electrical stuff if you go with the 220amp

 

Curious to hear myself. I too am done with crap OEM or remanned alt's, I have gone through similar issues as you, although not to the same extent.

I'm feeling like going with the 220 anyway that way I have ALL options covered.

 

I can't answer your question, but I hope that the $151 alternator I put in on my trip doesn't give me the troubles you've had... I got mine from CarQuest as it was the only parts house I could get to in time. Well, kind of in time... the guy working there had to stay late so I could get there and get the new alt. Mine quit in the middle of nowhere, I was grateful that the truck kept running and I was able to make it somewhere to get a new one. I did have to get a jump start from a woman driving a Dodge Cummins though after I tried to flag down a fellow PSD owner and he left me high and dry.

 

They need their PSD taken away from them,and be put in time out for doing this !!!!!


I tried to flag down a fellow PSD owner and he left me high and dry.

 

I was less than impressed for sure. What made me mad is the jerk started to slow down and was looking right at me, then took off. Oh well, at least the woman in the Dodge was helpful, even if she did have to point out that it looked pretty bad having a Dodge jumpstart a Ford.

 

A 140 amp alternator should be able to produce 1600 watts at peak output, which is far, far above what you need.

That said, the more you draw from an alternator, the faster it usually burns out (or the circuitry)

Your CB radio and audio system average a very small draw. Even a 1000w amp might average 100-300 watts draw, becuase it isnt constantly pushing 1000, its just peaking 1000.

Your backup lights we'll forget about, cause they'd just be used intermittently.

Your biggest loads look like the camper, and front lights.

The biggest load scenario would be if you were sitting in the truck, idling (less alt. output), in reverse, with the camper connected, AC on, talking on the CB with the stereo cranked way up, with dead battery in the RV.

I'm not sure what the truck draws on its own, or the FASS pump, but I personally think that for whatever reason your electrical needs may exceed average, my alternator is apparently still factory, at 240,000 kms, and I have a camper, and 2x100watt offroad lights on the front that i use regularly. I've also generated hydrogen from the truck electrical system, and charged my 4 100ah deep cycle batteries without any problems.

I cant believe your luck with the alternators, I hope it changes for the good.

You should opt for a higher output alternator, such as the 220amp.

or 2 smaller alternators...???

 

not sure what you got for a price..but you might want to check this out..
High Output Ford Alternator, Large Case Alternator Upgrade for Ford 7.3l, 6.0 & 6.5 Power Stroke Diesel

 

Hmmmm.
Eight alternators later I would be looking at the wiring, or something else that is killing the alternators.
NOBODY is that bad at rebuilding.

 

Dan, I have thought about that, but I am wondering if the problem lies in the camper connection. The reason I am leaning that way is, If I dont tow alot the alternators seem to last longer, where as since April I have put more towing miles on than DD miles. Since the purchase of the commuter car the truck sits in the driveway for up to two weeks, yet I do not have drained batts when I go to start it. I would think if it has an short in two weeks I would at least see dead batts. Yes? No? Maybe?

Last week when Chris and I were fooling around with the generator, we tested the camper and the inverter is pulling 3 amps (or at least thats what the genny was feeding the camper through shore power.)

 

the other problem with alts is heat dissipation. them electron pushing thingeys hate being hot.

I'm guessing that you have a load problem with shore power towing the trailer. Mine will charge the trailer battery and I see a definate 20 amp spike which with the A/c and lights on doesn't leave much room for capacity on the 100 amp alt I have in my truck.

perhaps starting the truck 15 minutes before towing to top off the onboard battery set?

 

That may very well be it.
Too high of a load somewhere like that and the alternator gets too hot.
Do you have a way of measuring the alt output when you have the fiver hooked up?

 

The other thing you could do is install a circuit breaker on the charge wire going to the 7 way plug.
They are those little rectangle boxes with two posts on them.
NAPA has them in (I think) 15, 25, 50 amp ratings.
They are self resetting so you don't have to worry about keep flipping a switch, but the downside is they will take a very long time to recharge a dead battery.
And the trailer brakes rely on that same battery in a break-away situation.
I don't know if they use the battery during normal driving or if the trailer gets electric brake power from the truck when it is being towed. Not familiar with that part of the trailer design.

 

This is the breaker that I am writing about.
I did a search for "circuit" on NAPA Online.

Link to 25 amp circuit breaker at NAPA

 

Brandon, are you leaving something ON in the TT that might be draining that battery way down or perhaps the TT battery has a shorted cell? You could and probably should charge the TT off shore power before towing. Actually that is probably good advice for all of us.

With that being said, if you go with the 220 you have an alternator that doesn't have to work as hard and that has plenty of reserve if needed. Electrically speaking, bigger is usually better.....