Ok Campers. Here goes.

Picked up the 89' BII with the 2.9v6 yesterday. And this things got issues!

It must have been owned by a set of teenage riceheads last time around. So far here's what I've found:

Under body and general ext. With the exception of what appears to be acid rain damage to the hood and roof, and a small dent in the right fender? We are talking excellent for it's age. Zero rust on the underbody, all lines, back of drum plates, etc.. Just a slight coating of some gray dust--but clean as a whistle. So that's the good part.

Here's the not so much fun part.

The gent I purchased it from rebuilt the transmission, (seems to be good) however he mis-aligned the gear shift. Shouldn't be to hard to adjust.

Engine runs extremely rough. No sign of antifreeze in the oil, and thankfully no knocks. (slight lifter noise, but very slight) Exhaust smell, when we did get it to run? Seems to confirm either a blown head gasket or a cracked head. The PO threw in an extra 2.9v6 head, just in case one of the heads is actually cracked. I'm planning on taking it to a machine shop first and having it checked for cracks and warping. If it's in good shape? Once I get the heads off this engine, I should be one-up. Exhaust smells like a sugar factory, and there is confirmed exhaust being pushed into the coolant (attempted to take radiator cap off, engine running--still quite 'cold'..and she had some pressure)

Brake light is of course, 'on'. Found the PO had some of his students bleeding the brakes for training (he's a vo-tech auto tech ins.) Brake reserve was non-existent. Topped it off, and that should have cleared the brake light--seems there probably is air in the lines. Rear Anti-lock light is also 'on'...

More fun and games. Noted while driving it around the yard to line it up for parking, the charge gauge was bouncing at a pretty good rate. Normally it should hold @ about 14v (mid range) and be somewhat steady. This ol' girl was bouncing up and down. Now this could be caused by the fact the battery was popped into it just to get it to start, and the positive cable has a bad connection to the starter sol. So I'm hoping that's it.

So that's pretty much the story behind this one. Only paid 600 for it, and that was due to the body being just about the cleanest (rust wise) I've seen for an 89'.

I'm already planning in fixing the battery cable, installing a new battery, and doing a complete tune-up (when I do a tune up...that's cap/rotor/wires/plugs/fuel&air filters/pcv/did I leave anything out?) I figure even if a head is cracked? All these new parts will transfer over to a different head, and it's good maintenance.

Any thoughts or ideas, known GOOD suppliers for trim parts? (the door panels are in good shape, but the door handles are beat--inside and out LOL)

Any feedback is welcome. Compression test and leakdown test is already being planed when I get the plugs pulled.

S-

 

LMC Truck has model specific catalogs and reasonable prices

 

Already have an LMC catalog coming in for it. While we did use LMC for our dual exhaust on the '75? I'd like to-if possible- work with sponsors of the site, and american companies. (Feel free to laugh at that last one--most stuff I've been working with says "Made in the USA---**tiny print** with parts imported from Mexico and China)

On the lighter side? Local machine shop is willing to work with me on having the heads tested once I get them pulled off. If I do all the leg-work, pulling the valves, springs, seals, etc.. And just bring them in the heads, minus all extra stuff? $40 to clean and fully test for cracks. I forgot to ask, if removal of exhaust manifold studs would be required (heck, I'm not even sure if these heads use studs or bolts to hold the manifold on?)

S-

 

I would almost bet that you have a cracked head.

The exhaust manifolds are bolted on. Ford used itty bitty bolts that like to break off so be careful when removing them. The machine shop should be able to extract them if they break off.

 

Been there and done that with bolt/stud extractions. We used to have a '92 probe GT with the turbo. Nice 2.2L engine, however you could almost set your watch by snapping studs on the exhaust. Not sure if it was the weight of the turbo being undersupported with fords mini bracket, or just the expansion/contraction of the manifold. But I had to extract 4 broken studs, tap 'em out and installed reducer studs.

Not a nice time LOL. So if the machine shop is reasonable? Any broken bolts I'll leave to them. I've had my share of 'em.

Any odds on which head---or both heads that might be cracked? If it's one head, it's covered with the extra the PO threw in. Both heads and I'm gonna be salvage yard bound. (can't afford almost 4 bills for a rebuilt head--money is extreme tight)

S-

 

I'd bet you have at least one cracked head. Since you are pulling them anyway, you should replace them with World Products heads. They have stock specs but are heavy duty and thicker in the areas where the stock heads are weak. Build the new heads with new valves, springs and seals, and replace the lifters too while you're in there. Don't even waste time with the old heads once you get them off. I replaced mine 3 years ago on my 86 and they are still doing great.

 

That's pretty much the feeling all around. I check world products and found their pricing to be decent, however I can't afford at this time to spend about $900 for a pair of heads. I wish it was possible, but I just priced out the parts I already know I'm in for, and there goes a good chunk of the budget. The PO installed aftermarket rims, and one tire is questionable. He put on super wide rims!! Even the 225 it's got? The sidewalls are sticking out a good 2". If it had stock rims? I could do all 4 tires for what it's gonna run for just a pair.

Well, at any rate. NAPA has everything needed for the basics in stock, and the prices are right inline with the other parts houses. (they also have the head bolts in stock, where the others would have to special order them).

I'll be tearing into it probably on Friday at this point. Pull the valve covers and doing a visual inspection first, along with the plugs. I'll probably do a compression and leak down test as well. Nothing says "Love" like hitting each cylinder with 90lbs of compressed air--and doing it with the radiator cap 'off' LOL. (I'll drain out some coolant first, no need to take a green shower)

S-

 

That sounds awfully high for the heads. I paid I think around $350 for both - stripped.

 

powrstrkr. My error this time around. When I looked up the pricing I wrote down 'ea'. It's gone up to $450 for a set--stripped. (yeah...I need more sleep when I start making notes)

Still, figure in a chunk o' change for shipping, and it'll probably trigger about $500. Still to rich for my blood at this point in the game. Our budget is getting weaned down fast. Somewhat local salvage yard still carries parts for the Rangers and BII's. (Heck, he's still got stuff going back to early 70's!) I asked him about the head problems, and he is all to knowledgeable about it. Seems he used to sell a few sets of heads for the 2.9 a month. He has several still in stock, "A" grade for $60 per with exchange. Heck, if they are truly in "A" grade condition? $120 for a pair seems quite reasonable.

Just popped for a new battery for the ol' girl. Hopefully it's the right size, I hate buying anything car related from wallyworld-- But they list the battery (same size and cca) for $20 less then the parts houses. I think Interstate or Exide makes their batteries. It's gonna be one of the two considering there are only those two left for major car battery makers.

Gonna install it tomorrow and start with the basics. Hopefully the stinker fits. Big difference between the 88 and 89s regarding size and height. Back in my mechanics days I remember all to often the listings being incorrect, due to mid-year changes.

S-

 

As far as the battery, I modded the battery tray to fit a 1000 CCA battery. If you're running a winch you'll need bigger than stock. With a bigger battery all you have to worry about is clearance with the intake hose so vibration doesn't wear a hole in it.

Good luck on the heads - not a bad price if they're in good shape.

 

Thanks. Plans for tomorrow (the truck got delayed LOL!! WOOHOO) Install the battery and start by pulling the spark plugs and valve covers. From what I can tell so far, these cracks can be picked up in most cases with a visual inspection. If all checks out visually good? I'll use the "Rent a tool" program at the local parts store and throw a pressure tester on the radiator-run it to recommended pressure and see if it holds...or starts drooling into a cylinder. The plugs themselves should also tell an interesting story, my understanding is that any coolant leak into an active cylinder will "wash" the plugs--and should be pretty cut'n dry.

The fun part? The oil in this truck is 100% clean. Not even a speck of carbon deposits. So it's a safe bet the oil was changed out (probably by one of the students where the PO taught) When we did get it running? Ran extremely rough, however total silence from the lower end of the engine. Slight lifter tapping (big whoop...we get that on our '75 LOL) So I'm hopeful the bearings are in good shape. In the short time the engine did run--The sugar smell from the exhaust, rough running...no signs of antifreeze in the oil. If I had to guess? Might be a small crack leaking into a cylinder(s) No blue smoke at all, just black smoke when you attempt to get it up a small incline--as it kinda gasps for power.

The valve cover gaskets leak more then a set of drunks after happy hour--So no matter what I plan? They are going to have to be replaced anyway. Good time to get into it and see what's up.

Thanks again for the help. I still have yet to see anything more then the usual condensation white smoke personally (my wife stated she did see it from the exhaust when it was warmed up and revved slightly) At this point I'm getting ready for the worse news...but keeping hopeful nothing is to badly hosed

S-

 

Thanks. That information is quite helpful. It's a pity that Ford, for whatever reason did a design change for the heads. Not sure why they would produce a product that has such an extreme weak point?

**shrug** It would seem that if it worked in Germany quite well...Why bugger up the design?

S-

 

Ok Campers.

Spent the afternoon working on the beast. First off? Whom ever designed the engine compartment should have their butthole removed.

Two spark plugs found loose. We are talking barely finger tight. Someone installed "Split-Fires" on all 6. All 6 plugs had carbon deposits--a few on the heavy side. A couple plugs where blackened--with no sooty deposits.

Spent several hours chasing my tail trying to get it started. New battery installed, along with a new positive cable, only to have it click once--and then everything goes dead?? Found heavy green crap all over the neg. cable. Main power lead into the engine fuse box also in bad shape, green crap, busted up insulation..it's depressing. However it's nothing that should prevent it from running at least 1/2 decent.

Valve cover gaskets are fully shot. I pulled the main air snorkel off and hosed the daylights out of the throttle body with B12 cleaner. Needless to say it now can just about idle by itself. The idle air passage and valve must have been fully plugged up with crap.

Now onto the fun part. I cleaned up the plugs and reinstalled them (did not have the new ones purchased yet). Started right up and seemed fairly happy. The Tach on the dash is no where near correct. I drove it around the yard and it was 'warmed up' a bit (thermostat did open, upper hose very hot LOL) and no white smoke that I could tell? Maybe I did not get it hot enough, however this has zero power...We are talking hit the gas to go forward or reverse? And it stumbles, fumbles, and can't get out of it's own way.

Parked it back into it's little cubby hole, and noticed the check engine light managed to lite up. Now in park the engine revs up fairly well. In gear under load? The engine is extremely weak and just acts very sluggish.

On the lighter side I found a broken off wire that was supposed to go to the battery ground. Put a lug onto it and attached it---And the brake light and the rear anti-lock light went 'off'. So at least that is one mystery solved.

I'm going to see if I can locate my compression tester and run the compression and leakdown tests in the next few days. If I can get it into the garage, I'll probably do the valve cover gaskets at the same time.

So some progress has been made, just really confused about the stunning lack of power. Seems just like someone puts their hand over the intake and just chokes it off when you get onto the gas?

S-
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Check the base timing, book says 10 BTDC, I use about 12 myself. Some of em can go a little more.
Set it as high as it will allow (within reason), smooth start ups, no "chop" "chop" when turning it over and with no spark knock under load. Get either or both, back it off a little and try it again until you find it's particular "sweet spot".

As you know good cap, rotor, plugs and wires are a must for it to run strong, make good power.
Them plugs you put back in may be beyond hope.....

 

I've seen and pulled much worse plugs LOL. We are planning on replacing them with V-Power NGK's. (We have had excellent luck with that brand on all the family engines)

The thing that really threw me for a loop was just how well it finally managed to idle (that IAC valve/motor must have been really caked). Once I moved it around? It just felt like someone put a strangle hold on it. Put 'er back into park? Normal Idle...rev it up all day long. Get it under load? crap city.

Gonna use a 1/2 personal day tomorrow, and make a trip down to HBF for an elcheapo' fuel pressure gauge and compression tester (can't find my MAC tools one?...anyone here have it and not returned it???LOL)

I've read there are known issues with the fuel pressure regulator that I should also check into.

One magic question LOL... How in the he|| does anyone replace that disty cap and rotor? Everything is tucked away nicely in that high speed racing style intake manifold's rear end LOL.

I had enough fun just pulling to check that nice plug buried next to the A/C housing LOL. And who's the brain trust that lined the outer part of that housing with tinfoil type insulation? I get my fat meat hook into it, and it falls apart?!?!? Heck, most of that fiberglass was siting, and burning a bit into the exhaust manifold. I removed all the loose stuff.

Before I pull these plugs again to replace them? I'm going to hose the crap out of EVERYTHING in the plug areas with brake cleaner, change out the valve cover gaskets--That way I do not wind up scraping all that crap onto the spark plug threads.

I figure hosing down with brake cleaner until it rinses 'clean'..and then hose it down with good ol' fashion garden hose power--Let it dry completely..And then do the plugs again so I do not dump oil sludge into the cylinder. LOL

I'll recheck the timing tomorrow, along with fuel pressure and compression...

So far this has been a real trip.

S-