I've had decent luck with just the standard engine cleaner and the a hose. The engine cleaner doesn't evaporate as quickly and gives you time to scrub the soiled areas.

I can't live with out my fuel pressure tester but one way to tell if the FP is bad would be to pull the vacuum line from it. If it has any fuel in it or is damp from fuel the FP should be replaced.

 

Update:

Pulled all the plugs after nailing it with brake clean and just an air jet nozzle. (my step father has one that is 3' long with a narrow tip. Nice for those pain in the rear end places)

Compression test came out to 175-180 across the board. Deduct about 20lbs for it being a harbor freight tester, and the compression is decent.

Fuel pressure reads 40lbs at all times while running. I pulled the vacuum line while it was running, and didn't take a gas-shower. So I'm fairly sure the regulator is fine.

Figured out the 'Check Engine' light. The PO strikes again. Found the o2 sensor wires floating in the breeze. (one black, and two white wires) Pulled the ol' girl up onto the ramps and went a peeking. Found the o2 sensor just in front of the cat. coverter--or what was left of it?!?!? Seems he replaced the transmission, and had to have given the o2 sensor one hell of a punch. More good news--He also must have unscrewed it--because it was only in the pipe finger tight!

Now here's the fun part. The replacement o2 sensor appears to be physically to "Tall" to fit correctly. The transmission lines run just above where the top of the sensor would be (maybe 2" space) and the hole is angled and slightly pointed at the transmission itself--points right about at the front band servo.

This is going to take some figuring out to locate an o2 sensor that will fit correctly. It's not the factory auto either.. He used one from a mustang with a tail shaft change over for the bronco II. Physically it should be the exact same unit?

And as Paul Harvey would say? Now the rest of the story.

Installed the NGK V-Power's. Engine seems to like 'em. However it still starts extremely hard when stone cold. (fires right over when warmed up) Severe power loss still evident. Did drive it around the yard, and it did much better. (even with the missing sensor LOL) Moved it back to it's cubby hole--and tried to do a basic "Stall Speed" test in both drive and reverse. It bogs down and skips badly. (ignition needs more work, cap/rotor/wires are on the list)

And of course--we got it much hotter today. And it started blowing a nice cloud of stinky white smoke from the tailpipe. This time she really started to kill some 'skeeters'.. It's not carbon/black...or blue.. It's white with a sour smell to it. (don't even go there with the usual white smoke from condensation...it's not that--LOL)

So from all outward clues? (still no sign of anti-freeze in the oil) If I had to guess? Head gasket is either blown just a whisker, leaking into the combustion chamber-- Or we have a hairline crack in the head, once warmed up seeping into the combustion chamber. The only other alternative would be a cracked block---and I'm hoping like heck that's not it.

Tune in next time for: "As the engine turns".... On our next episode: The top half tear down begins----

S-

 

Another small update.

2.9v6 of course in play here.

I'm starting to think we might have two major problems working like cause and effect.

The truck, even with new plugs does not like to start or really idle that great. Now as a very basic test, I hooked up the trusty vacuum gauge directly to intake manifold. Then I had my wife attempt to start it up.

We barely had more then 3" total in vacuum..and bouncy from 0-3". Now that was while trying to start it up, not running. I'm unsure how much vacuum we should expect during a start up---but I'm wondering if the converters might be loaded? That would make it very hard for the engine to breath. Once it did start? We had about 15-19" of vacuum. It was wandering badly. But if you gave it a good "punch"? Vacuum dropped as expected----Rebounded to 24"---Settled down to 16" and was somewhat stable.

Our compression numbers point towards correct cylinder sealing and internal valve timing seems to be spot-on. (otherwise we would not have gotten the average 180lbs of compression on all 6)

Soooooo...I'm wondering if--- If the head cracked and did so in a fashion that dumped coolant not into the cylinder---but the exhaust port--That would explain the white smoke, and no sign of any coolant in the oil or the lack of effect on the spark plugs---and if so? Would that extra steam bath damage the first stage of the converter enough to create a back pressure problem--resulting it it running like someone is choking it while under any load?

Or......If the converters got plugged---and the extra backpressure created might have been enough to overheat/bake/crack the head in the right area to create the coolant leak into the exhaust flow?

Kinda like the chicken and the egg..

It's going into the family garage later in the week anyway. The spare head the PO threw into the deal? Is a piece of crap-- I examined it closely and found two cracks. One I could live with (between water jackets) The other? Water Jacket cracked fully to the outside edge. Anyone need a large paperweight?

The tear down starts in a few days---If I'm lucky? (so far I'm pulling up nadda in the luck dept) I'll be able to visually see where the leak(s) are. (hopefully just from one head--LOL...)

S-