My truck is acting up. I am sure it is the passenger side wheel bearing assemly. Is has been getting louder and louder. I have had both frony bearings replaced in the last 15 months, so I can't understand why it would be needing work all ready!

On the drivers side, it was replaced with a Ford(from the dealer) part. It was very costly. The install was done by a proffessional. I remember the part alone was $300 or so. And then labor of course. In the end it was ALOT OF MULA!

On the passenger side, it was replaced with an after market (Carquest Auto parts) part. I did the labor my self. This way was comparatively in expensive. I think I paid $155 for the part.

So with that being said, when I installed the wheel bearing assembly on the passenger side I did it "by the book" following all instructions and "to a tee."
(Not that there was all the much to do.) But I am sure it was done correctly.
So what went wrong? I have no freakin' Idea!

So I guess what I want to know is if there is any one out there who has done this before on a 98 3.0L 4x4, with the pulse vac hubs. I am hoping someone can/will walk me through the install just as a refresher course so I am sure to get it right. This aftermarket hub assembly is still under warrenty,(thank god!) so it is a matter of bringing the old one in for an exchange.
I installed it Less than 7 months ago! It shouldn't be failing this soon.
I wonder why it is failing? Any Ideas?......oh one more thing, What is the proper lubricant to use during the install of the wheel bearing hub assembly?

Thanks in Advance!

 

did the O-ring seal blow out? You probably overtorqued or under torqued the bearing...Or used the wrong grease. 13in lbs on the inner collar, 150 ft lbs on the outer

 

this is the 1998. It has pulse vacuum hubs and ABS. The whole assembly is bolted on with only the three bolts facing in, in a triangle arrangement. It comes pre-greased. pre-assembled. ready-to-go. (this is why i don't understand why it failed when it was installed in March of this year!)

 

I know this may not be my area to "play" in LOL. However most wheel bearings, and the ones built into a 'hub' normally carry a some type of factory/aftermarket time frame where they can be replaced. (my last van had lifetime bearings installed) It might be worth pulling out any paperwork and checking into getting a warranty replacement. Even if you do not have the paperwork? Depending on where you purchased the part, some stores retain computer records for warranty claims.

It's very odd to have them fail so quickly. I would almost suspect perhaps a bad batch or incorrect "build" when they where put together.

S-

 

yeah, it was covered under warranty! It was a free replcement! I just installed the new hub last night. It was tuff to get off because the inner bearing sleeve, the small one, was all mangled. But i was able to persuade it with a 5 lbs malet. However, for me to be able to slide the caliper back over the disc, i had to open it a tad with a c-clamp. When I took it for a test drive, the breaks are squishy now. they are nlonger stopping me at full potential. Also, when i hit the breaks, the truck pulls to the left a bit. the hub was replaced on the passenger side.(the right) I tried bleeding the right side but when i tried to open the bleeder nut, it is siezed. I can't get it to budge. ??????Any help on getting my breaks back??

 

Ughhhhhhhhhhhh....

Classic brake caliper issue. Works just great, but the internal seal can't take being "reversed" back into the caliper all that often. Then what you get? Either wonkey braking action on that wheel...or none at all?

I'm not sure if this would even work? But put the C-Clamp back on, you can probably do this on the truck with the caliper and pads installed. Move the piston back into the caliper a bit more...have a helper hit the brakes a few times. It might kick the seal back into position, however I fear the caliper probably will need to be replaced pretty quick. Even if it kicks free? The seal is already damaged. Real pain in the rear end. Get one problem fixed (Real glad they honored the warranty) And have another one kick up.

S-

 

get the bleeder loose and bleed the brakes. if they are squishy that means theres air in the system. if the seal rolled over you would explode the external piston seal causing a huge leak all over the place, or the piston wouldn't move and you would still have a firm pedal

 

I agree, that system needs to be bled. If the bleeder screw is siezed or mangled beyond repair, then grab another caliper from a junkyard.

 

I was wondering when we were going to hear from you, Rockledge! How you been? (Any insight I've received from Rockledge, has been a major component to rectify any ploblem I've ever had!THANKS!)Yes, the bleeder is mangled WAY beyond repair!

Pintopower.....might you have any insight for me? I am having a fuel preasure problem in my secondary car....there isn't any! Yeah my 1994 Saturn has no fuel pressure in its line. I just installed a new,(well, junkyard bought) fuel pump. Still not fireing up.(still zero pressure) Maybe we can chat about that? I can't figure it out. Oh, by the way: the caliper issue seems to have corrected itself. it has evened out and the pedle has gotten gradually firmer. I am baffeled! thanks though. I may just replace the caliper any way.