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hey can someone explain to me hoe the power assist steering in a 1976 f-250 works?
If its like mine was ,"was" being the key word ,,,when you turn the wheel it opens one valve & closes another ,,this sends pressure to the slave cylinder to turn one way or another ...the valve is spring loaded ,,makes for alot of play in the steering...
I took all of it out & put in a chevy gear box ,,steers like a car ...
with my old set up,,you had to let it know what you were going to do in advance with a bump of the wheel left ,, (if you were going to turn left ,,) it sucked ....
It uses a manual steering box with the pitman arm attached to a ball stud on the front end of a control valve pressurized by the power steering pump. The rear of the control valve is attached to the driver's side steering knuckle by a tie rod end looking thingy. The valve pressurizes a hydraulic power cylinder on the center (drag) link. The ball stud on the valve moves back and forth with the pitman arm, either extending the ram on the hydraulic cylinder or retracting it, depending on which way you're turning. The ram moves the center link left and right, in turn moving the steering knuckles.
There might be more to it than that, but that's the way I understand it, based on staring at my '76.
A lot of people say it's the worst piece of crap ever invented, but I don't think it's that bad. The only issue I have with it is that some the the parts are getting hard to find, and run big $$ when you do find them.
One thing I didn't know until recently is that Ford used a similar setup on their cars in the 1960's.
ALL Ford passengers cars used power assist P/S from 1953 thru 1964, except 1961/64 Birds & Lincolns.
1965/71 Falcon/Fairlane/Torino/Montego & Comets (thru 1969) / 1965/70 Mustang/Cougar / 1970/77 Maverick/Comet also used this setup, as did 1969/74 Econolines.
Power assist P/S was used on F100/250 4WD's thru 1976.
There are two different P/S control valves and related parts.
Garrison (used before serial # T80,001) and Bendix, (used after serial # T80,001).
I couldn't agree more, it's not the POS most would have you believe, any mechanical system that's been neglected for over 30 years is going to be troublesome, but when maintained these power assist systems function just fine, mine is 33 years old, all original, and works perfectly.
I'll throw my 2 cents in. I have the power assist in my 74 high boy. It works flawlessly, even with my lift and 39.5 swampers. I can run 60mph on the highway steering it with 1 finger, and it doesn't wander at all. I've said it before, it's actually a good system when working properly. I bought a 79 steering box 2 years ago, based on all the negative things I heard about the power assist, and the 79 box is still sitting in the back of my shop. At this point, I see absolutely no reason to swap. The only drawback I see in the power assist, is the cost of parts like mentioned earlier.
I'll throw my 2 cents in. I have the power assist in my 74 high boy. It works flawlessly, even with my lift and 39.5 swampers. I can run 60mph on the highway steering it with 1 finger, and it doesn't wander at all. I've said it before, it's actually a good system when working properly. I bought a 79 steering box 2 years ago, based on all the negative things I heard about the power assist, and the 79 box is still sitting in the back of my shop. At this point, I see absolutely no reason to swap. The only drawback I see in the power assist, is the cost of parts like mentioned earlier.
Agreed, the cost of replcement parts are insanely high, but if you have a power assist system that works correctly i don't see the point in doing the much hyped swap, it's just become par for the course to dismiss the p/a system but it's not as bad as some would have you believe, at least that's my experience with it.
At its most basic - the steering box moves the ball stud, which shifts a spool valve in the control valve housing. This directs pressurized fluid to a hydraulic cylinder, which them pushes the steering linkage.
When the ball stud is moved off-center, all the hydraulics are trying to do is re-center the ball stud. It does this by moving the linkage, which just happens to steer the truck.
It is not a bad system at all, when set up properly and in good working condition. A lot of systems tend to be neglected and receive a lot of physical abuse from underneath the truck, and this is where most of the problems come from.
Most of the rebuilding I do is Mustangs, Falcons and such, but in the last couple of months I have rebuilt three Bendix-style truck valves. They were is really good condition, compared to most that I have seen, and didn't have the usual rust damage inside, so they turned out really nice. I think the later Bendix style valve is much better than the earlier Garrison valve.
ok so if I was to move the setup out of my 76f250 and put it in a john deere tractor to eliminate costly steering worm failure... I could replace one of the two tie rods on the pitman arm with the drag link aka garrison valve or is it a bendix??... attach the ram to the other tie rod... and I would have power assist steering in my tractor right?????
ok so if I was to move the setup out of my 76f250 and put it in a john deere tractor to eliminate costly steering worm failure... I could replace one of the two tie rods on the pitman arm with the drag link aka garrison valve or is it a bendix??... attach the ram to the other tie rod... and I would have power assist steering in my tractor right?????
In theory yes. But for a tractor, I would go with a hydraulic system consisting of a char-lyn valve and a hydraulic ram before a power assist system?. This is by far the best set up for something that's not street driven, and virtually maintenance free.
ok so if I was to move the setup out of my 76f250 and put it in a john deere tractor to eliminate costly steering worm failure... I could replace one of the two tie rods on the pitman arm with the drag link aka garrison valve or is it a bendix??... attach the ram to the other tie rod... and I would have power assist steering in my tractor right?????
I did something similar to what you are wanting to do about 35 years ago. I had a 1947 Plymouth that I turned into a streetrod, with a 413 Chrysler engine with a six pack setup on it. I wanted power steering, so I took the necessary parts from a 57 Ford car and adapted them to the Plymouth. It worked pretty good, but I wanted a faster steering, so changed the length of the steering arms to quicken it.
However, I wished after doing it, that I had not quickened it as it took more power to turn the wheels than if I had left it slower. Otherwise it worked quite well.
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