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well i'm a new guy to this forum and i wanted to say hi, but i'm having a problem and this is the main reason i joined. i was wondering if anyone that has a 48-50 f-1 has had there gauges rebuilt and converted to 12volt.i just put a 351w in mine and i'm debating on putting modern stewert warner gauges or having the originals redone. any help would be great thanx-matt
Matt,
Welcome to the board!!! Glad you found our little corner of the web.
There are alot of options for gauges in our trucks. Check out my gallery "tightwad cluster" 1949 Ford F1 4x2 - Tightwad Cluster
I have taken a late model cluster from a late 90's GM van and adapted them to my housing....total cost, less that $20.
Also check this gallery out for tip49; 1950 Ford F1 4x2 - Cab Mods
Tom has adapted laate model Ford gauges into his stock cluster.
One of the big things you nee to keep in mind is to match your fuel gauge to your fuel sending unit...basically, a gm sending unit needs a gm gauge, etc
Welcome to the board, Matt. Running gauges is just a matter of matching resistance to either 6v or 12v batteries. Now that is as simplified and confusing as it gets, lol.
Welcome Matt. I've got a 50 and you can check out my gallery to see what I did. It's been about 8yrs since I put these dolphins in some bird's eye maple. I'd suggest a composite instead of wood as I've developed two cracks in thin spaces, but the guages have held up great. The speedo's programmable so as I've changed tranny's and rear gears I've been able to adjust my speedo instead of hunting down cable gears. And since I saved a lot over the cost to convert my old guages (I still have them though, and toy with the idea...maybe when my 10mos old daughter is out of college...who knows?).
Probably the cheaper, more reliable way to go is with new guages. Converting may be reliable, but if you're swapping motors and such, why keep it original?
Best of luck! Feel free to ask any questions...this is the perfect place to get a lot of opinions (and even some good info from time to time).
Hello Matt. I have a "50 F-1 with a 351W and I struggled with that decision. I finally went with the original base and rechromed frame. Then I made an turned metal insert plate to house a TPI quad gauge set in addition to turn signal and high beam indicators. It came out super.
well i'm building my f-1 as a sorta traditional 50's style custom and i have the billet panel to run the aftermarket gauges that i used to have in my old 50 f-1 i had years ago. but i'm looking at how hard it is to keep the old look without having to blow my wallet apart.
Welcome to FTE, Matt. I also have a '50 F-1 which at first will be put on the road in a stock condition. While my gages all work, some are discolored and rusty. Replacement gage faces are offered on E-Bay for about $20.00. These are probably just stick-on decals but look pretty good. You can also send in your gages and he will install the decals. Again, this is pretty much cosmetic. There are several post here about changing gages to 12V and adapting gages to different sending units, plus some great adaptations of donor gages like Bobby's. I guess your options are limited only by your imagination, skill, and budget. Keep us posted on you progress.
well i did some research and the 57-60 ford,merc, lincoln car gauges look exactly like the 48-50 ones but a different face. so i'm heading to the local vintage parts store to try to hunt down a set to make sure so i'm crossing my fingers. but i was wondering since there all ready 12volt and made for a more modern engine will they work perfectly fine on my 68 351w?
My 56 is already 12V, so I can't offer any suggestions on that part of it.
I did like the original gauge panel in mine though. I also had a set of autometer gauges laying around (in pods). I did not want to hack up the dash or replace the original panel, so I asked my dad to make me some brackets to bolt in under the dash. I was happy with the results.
Here is a pic (were not wired at the time of the pic):
It took him 20 minutes from the time he found a piece of scrap metal (in a bin at work) until they were painted.
Just an idea, if someone wants to keep their original speedometer and gauge panel.
You did not indicate if your original gauges were ok cosmetically. If they are all you need is a dropping resister for the three of the gauges, you will need to reverse the direction of the heavier wire that goes thru the loop on the back of the ammeter (going from postive to negative ground and change out the bulbs to 12v. I converted my gauges 30 years ago.
I would have preferred to keep mine original in my 50 but they needed lots of work; I started restoring them but with the 302 and change to Mustang tank I started looking for late model replacements to fit. I am using 87 F150 speedo which has the same tranny, and cabling so I think I'm OK with it going to work. The rest of the gauges came from early 80's ford van, which I sould be able to tweek with resistors if required. As Bobby stated, it depends on cost, desired look and ingenuity.
well i did some research and the 57-60 ford,merc, lincoln car gauges look exactly like the 48-50 ones but a different face. so i'm heading to the local vintage parts store to try to hunt down a set to make sure so i'm crossing my fingers. but i was wondering since there all ready 12volt and made for a more modern engine will they work perfectly fine on my 68 351w?
The 57-60 cars were 12V but the guages were probably still 6V. I think Ford used the dropping resistor on the guages up through the mid 60's. For themost part I think ford attached the dropping resistor directly to the gauge cluster so you should be OK.
well i did some research and the 57-60 ford,merc, lincoln car gauges look exactly like the 48-50 ones but a different face. so i'm heading to the local vintage parts store to try to hunt down a set to make sure so i'm crossing my fingers. but i was wondering since there all ready 12volt and made for a more modern engine will they work perfectly fine on my 68 351w?
If the 57-60 FoMoCo guages are already 12v they'll work just fine on your 351, assuming you install sending units to match the guages (I don't know if there's any difference in sending units between those years, but that would be easy to find out)
Originally Posted by 49willard
You did not indicate if your original gauges were ok cosmetically. If they are all you need is a dropping resister for the three of the gauges, you will need to reverse the direction of the heavier wire that goes thru the loop on the back of the ammeter (going from postive to negative ground and change out the bulbs to 12v. I converted my gauges 30 years ago.
When I looked in to doing that with my original guages the wiring guru at the hotrod shop in town told me that the resistors would not allow for accurate readings. If you converted your guages 30yrs ago, I'm guessing you'd know if you had accurate readings or not, so I want to know... What resistors did you use?
i did a search last night on the board and found out what you just said about the gauges being 6 volt with a ressistor from the 12volt battery. so now i'm in a way better mood. i found a 57 ford truck ressistor in my garrage so hopefully all i need to buy now are the 48-50 sending units for my gauges which vintage ford sells. but i'm a little confused on what to do for the amp gauge
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