Steering Jitters
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Steering Jitters
So whats up with this? When I turn a corner it feels like someone has a hand on the wheel trying to pull the steering wheel back into the turn? When I get the 95 F150 out of the corner it wants to shoot over to the left or right of the road, usually a foot or so. I have jacked her up and checked the ball joints and none of the front tires seem loose when wiggling them back and forth.
95 F150
4x4
Inline 6
Short Box
Update: Just took off the hub and lock nut. Spindle is loose with movement in out and lots of wiggle. I'm assuming this is not normal and would indicate a bearing issue?
95 F150
4x4
Inline 6
Short Box
Update: Just took off the hub and lock nut. Spindle is loose with movement in out and lots of wiggle. I'm assuming this is not normal and would indicate a bearing issue?
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New User
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Update
OK so the shaft with the wiggle is the 4 wheel drive shaft. With tire and rotor off I can move the spindle up and down about a 1/4". Movement is coming from the lower ball joint on the spindle assembly. QUESTION" Do I need to remove the spindle assembly to replace the lower ball joint?
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OK so the shaft with the wiggle is the 4 wheel drive shaft. With tire and rotor off I can move the spindle up and down about a 1/4". Movement is coming from the lower ball joint on the spindle assembly. QUESTION" Do I need to remove the spindle assembly to replace the lower ball joint?
the axle WILL have some movement, and is normal. the spindle, on the other hand, should not move.
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lower ball joint 4x4 needs replacement
Removal of the spindle from the spindla assembly will this give me access to the lower ball joint nut? Also, my technical manual does not cover the spndle seperation process. I have hit the flange of the spindle and it appears to be moving. Am I on the right track?
Thanks
Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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Removal of the spindle from the spindla assembly will this give me access to the lower ball joint nut? Also, my technical manual does not cover the spndle seperation process. I have hit the flange of the spindle and it appears to be moving. Am I on the right track?
Thanks
Thanks
which will THEN allow you acces to the balljoints.
yep, whatever works.
sometimes you can put the locknut back on, and smack them
or use a block of wood, and smack straight down on the spindle itself.
u can even hit the spindle directly. but you take a chance of hitting the surface the bearing rides on...not a good idea.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
You need this: Bronco Ball Joint Replacement - Trucks 4x4 @ Off-Road.com
And also a ball joint press. Your terminology is also confusing. The spindle is the shiny thing that the rotor fits on. The knuckle is the cast iron thing that the tie rod connects to. The ball joints are pressed into the knuckle. You have to remove the whole knuckle and press out the ball joints.
Some advice on replacement - use moog parts. Everything else is junk.
And also a ball joint press. Your terminology is also confusing. The spindle is the shiny thing that the rotor fits on. The knuckle is the cast iron thing that the tie rod connects to. The ball joints are pressed into the knuckle. You have to remove the whole knuckle and press out the ball joints.
Some advice on replacement - use moog parts. Everything else is junk.
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Perfect
That web site was perfect!! Yes, my lingo is confusing I agree. The spindle assembly in my book is what you are calling a knuckle. I was missing a piece of info in trying to figure out how to access the lower ball joint nut. Your pics explained that very well. I wondered about removing the spindle then pulling out the drive shaft through the hole, didnt think the drive shaft would fit through it.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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No Go
Well, I got the drive shaft out lower ball joint nut free (note to self dont use your 1/2" ratchet to do this, it now rests in the garbage can) but cannot remove the camber adjuster. I'm going to have to swallow my pride and take it to a shop. Thanks for your help guys.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Bonita Springs FL
Try a 1/2" breaker bar. Use an extension if you need to, but don't use any heat. Once you get that nut off, then the real fun begins. You need at least a 5lb hammer to break the knuckle free from the axle housing.
A shop will probably charge $600 to $800 depending on labor rate.
A shop will probably charge $600 to $800 depending on labor rate.
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Joined: Sep 2007
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Well, I got the drive shaft out lower ball joint nut free (note to self dont use your 1/2" ratchet to do this, it now rests in the garbage can) but cannot remove the camber adjuster. I'm going to have to swallow my pride and take it to a shop. Thanks for your help guys.
the camber sleeve can stay.
it wont move until you release the ball joint taper from the knuckle.
see above
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andym
Well andym I used your suggestions and it worked. I hit the top ball joint with a 5lb sledge and it broke free. Also located my breaker bar and that worked on the lower nut. My poor old Snap-On 1/2" ratchet snapped inside the ratchet mechanism. I'll have to take that in and see if they can fix it. The camber adjustment sleeve stayed put. I don't think I could remove it if I wanted too! I'll take the knuckle in and get the service boys to press out the old and install new ball joints. Thanks
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Finished!
Finished the upper and lower ball joints. Took my parts back to the store and picked up Moog as andym suggested. Big difference is quality. Original parts I bought didnt have grease fittings. After the install went for a drive and there is a big improvement however still a slight pull. I had problems with one of the radius arm bushings so I inspected the other one and sure enough the bolt was loose. That little play was allowing the axle to move around when I hit a bump. Drives like new now. Thanks for the input guys.
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Thread Summary
Here is a summary of this thread to date for folks wanting to change ball joints on a 95 F150 4x4 (many thanks to the posts who helped me).
Buy quality parts, Moog has grease nipples China ones don't.
When renting a ball joint puller make sure that you check the kit for tapered sleeves. Sleeve being the ring adapter. You need this to offset the taper on the knuckle.
You may need to hit the upper ball joint. I flipped the nut placed back on the upper ball joint and hit with a hammer. Still, the hammer blows damaged the nut and threads. I highly recommend replacing both the upper and lower ball joint not just one or the other.
Buy a brass hammer. For this application China stuff works well. An invaluable tool. Use this to hit the knuckle and release the steering linkage.
1/2" drive makes the job easier, and don't forget to invest in a breaker bar.
Buy quality parts, Moog has grease nipples China ones don't.
When renting a ball joint puller make sure that you check the kit for tapered sleeves. Sleeve being the ring adapter. You need this to offset the taper on the knuckle.
You may need to hit the upper ball joint. I flipped the nut placed back on the upper ball joint and hit with a hammer. Still, the hammer blows damaged the nut and threads. I highly recommend replacing both the upper and lower ball joint not just one or the other.
Buy a brass hammer. For this application China stuff works well. An invaluable tool. Use this to hit the knuckle and release the steering linkage.
1/2" drive makes the job easier, and don't forget to invest in a breaker bar.