Well I have a injector stuck in my head.(I wish) I tried every I could think of, now its head pullin time.... As you can see, I have a 91 with a turbo, which head gaskets should I use??? 94-95 turbo gaskets??? anything that will help me with getting more boost?? (You know Im looking at you Dave.S) I've turned up the boost to 12-13psi. Added a cold air intake (somewhat cold) Im going to relocate my egt probe to the exhaust man. anybody have more ideas??? I know its always more fun to spend other peoples money...

 

Did you post before about the stuck injector?

Is it frozen in there and will not turn? or is it turning but will not come out all the way?

 

I don't know if I'd do it but I've heard of people leaving ONE stuck glow plug in and relying on the other 7 .?.?.?.?

 

Its stuck... I tried turning it over to pop it out but it just poped out the pintle and plunger (broken) Im just wondering what I can do and how to do things for better reliability, ease of the job.and things I should look out for.. and the best head gaskets, exhaust, intake gaskets, and triks to make them better.. thanks for the input...

 

The injector came unthreaded and the lower part is stuck in the head, AND the other head had a swollen glo plug, I got that out with vicegrips and a pry bar... sorry and no I did not post about this, it hapened on the the 2nd...Im now having problems getting the exhust out of the down tube.... any help would be great, thanks.

 

Take the top of the injector grind the head threads off it....... screw it back together now use a wrench to rotate the injector and break loose the carbon...... PB blaster may help too..... do not allow tons of fluid or carbon to get into the cylinder...... bring that piston to TDC

Use this info to bring the Cylinder to TDC

The timing mark is found on a little plate that is on the front of the engine on the passenger side. The plate is mounted so it is very close to the main pulley on the lower front of the engine which is mounted on the vibration damper. On the side of the vibration damper, is a line, which when lined up with the line marked (O) on the plate, tells you that the #1 piston is at TDC(top dead center) You can see the line on the damper, and it points to the line on the plate with the (barely visible)O mark on it.You'll have to find a way to turn your engine over by hand (Crank/harmonic balancer bolt). Make sure you remove the power wire to the injection pump(so the engine won't start)and then rotate the engine until you can line up the marks.

The engine rotates in a clockwise direction as seen from the front of the truck, and for every 1/4 turn of the engine(crank) each next piston will arrive at TDC. So, When the line on the vibration damper is at the 2 oclock position, cylinders 2 and 5 will be at TDC. When the mark is at the 5 oclock position, cylinders 7 and 6 will be at TDC, 8 oclock has cylinders 3 and 8 at TDC, and back to 11oclock, 1 and 4 will be at TDC.

Cylinder numbers are assigned 1,3,5,7 on the left (passenger USA) bank from front of truck to back, and 2,4,6,8 on the driver's side (USA), front to back. Firing order is 1,2,7,3,4,5,6,8.

OK all the above is true...... to ensure the #1 piston is at TDC compression remove the inspection cover on the oil filler/gear cover. You will see a dowel pin from the IP if it is at 4 oclock that is TDC compression stroke, if it is at 11 oclock that is TDC exhaust stroke.......

 

Head studs, DPS-performance.com is the only game in town I know of for 7.3 heads studs, and they are a bit expensive.

I also heard he had a bad batch of 7.3 studs a while back.

The valley pan gasket was not designed for a turbo engine.
The one I used was from Fel Pro, and I blew the first one out at 22 PSI boost.
So this is what I did to fix that.

Studs in the intake manifold, increase the torque by 50 to 75% when you install it.
Same for the exhaust manifold.

Triple coat the head to intake surface of the valley pan with Permatex Spray Copper gasket maker on both sides.
Same for the mating head and intake manifold surface.

Let each coat dry completely before you coat it again, and also let it dry before you install it.

Same for the exhaust manifold gasket and mating surfaces.

The exhaust connections on both manifolds and the cross over to the Y connection on the right manifold are not supposed to see as much backpressure as a high boosting turbo will make, so those need a little work as well.

A trip to NAPA and a search through the exhaust gasket bin, I found a gasket with the number 30311 which had the right ID hole for the exhaust, but the bolt holes were off about 3/16" on both bolts.

A drill press will help you enlongate the holes enough for the bolts to pass through them.
Before you install them, you guessed it, more Permatex Copper gasket maker, three coats again on each side and the mating surfaces.

While you are in there, paint the cross over with ceramic high heat paint, 1200 degree.
Now install a header wrap with 50% overlap from one end to the other, then soak it with the ceramic high heat paint.
I did four very heavy coats with the paint.

Now wrap it again, 50% overlap again, the soak it with high heat paint again.

With my engine out and the turbo removed, I also did the turbo up pipe with header wrap and paint, two coats of each.

I used almost two rolls of header wrap, so I wrapped the down pipe from the turbo working to the back till I ran out of header wrap, I also soaked that wrap with high heat paint.

That last one does nothing for the engine, but it does keep the cab a bit cooler.

As I was typing about the header wrap, I guess you do have the ATS upgrade turbo outlet flange and down pipe on you truck?

If you don't, I might not bother with the studs and header wrap, your boost will not go that high anyway.

 

Thanks Dave and PLC. Lots of good info here.. the problem Im having now is getting the ehxaust pipe out of the turbo outlet....if its not running by monday I cant go on vacation... and I have to work 12hr shifts on sat. and sun..... thanks...

 

Others may disagree but this is the DUMBEST post I've ever done!
I had "glow plug" stuck in MY head and you have an injector stuck in your IRUCK'S head.
Obviously you can't leave a bad/broken INJECTOR in your motor.
My BAD!

Maebee i dont reed soo guud

 

Well I wish the injector was stuck in my head.. not in my trucks head..lots easyer tho I think I know how it got stuck... the mechanic at a shop in Portland, OR. had taken it out to show me how dirty it was, (by scratching the carbon that was on the outside of it and telling me that if the outside was that bad than the inside was just as bad) like I was born yesterday!! I dont think he put a new copper seal on it or some other trick of the trade....he also told me I needed a new air filter,,,My K&N was 8 days old or so........and so was the K&N sticker onthe aircleaner housing....

 

I just let THE ONLY MECHANIC in the world I trust fix the A/C in my '94. I hope he never dies, he's the only one I let do the few things to my rigs that my Dad or I don't do. I don't trust 99% of mechanics.
It's one of those professions where there's too many bad ones that way out wiegh the good ones so they all are suspect.
I live down around the Albany, OR area if you ever head south on I-5 and want to make a detour give me a heads up, I'll give you directions to my shop (guns not mechanic). We could B.S. for a while.

 

Thanks for the invite. I my make it down one of my days off...but not for a while...I just started up my other rig. its a 97 Pontiac Grand Am.... the radiator hs a split in the side tank.. had one orderd waited all day for it,,,, and the trany line fittings are the wrong size........... man Im just smotherd in good luck..(or thats how I feel) ??? well the word kinda sounds like luck ???

 

Just let me know if your headed this way.

 

Well with a handle like Dodge/Cummins posting in a Ford forum.......we just overlook some of your posts.




LMAO ROF


Sorry, I just could not resist.
It's nice to have someone we can razz a bit from time to time right here close.

 

Envy, PURE envy!

I thought I might lend an air of credibility to this site!

I can take it. I'm secure in my manhood.


(I type this while beating my chest repeditively.)

This is nothing compared to the crap I've recieved from my MOPAR buddies for going from no-Fords less than a year ago to 4 now. I try to defend myself by saying: "one's for sale and another I'm not sure what to do with yet!"
I'm affraid my explanation falls on deaf ears though.