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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

92 150 won't start

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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 04:56 PM
  #1  
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92 150 won't start

There's fuel pressure on the rail, spark above the distributor and I just had the ignition module tested. I've been having problems with it missing at startup but only for a couple of seconds, then it would run fine no matter how long I ran it. A couple f times I had a problem with it running rough and missing with a check engine light on but it was intermittent and would clear up. Now, it just won't start. I've replaced the cap and rotor and the wires look good. Anyone have any ideas?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 06:49 PM
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Even though you've swapped the ignition moduel, I'd swap it again.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 09:32 PM
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Have you checked for codes? You need to know if you there are codes, so don't start buying parts until you do that first.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 05:12 AM
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The check engine light only comes on when its running funny. Now that it won't start there's not a code for whatever's wrong.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ehonda
The check engine light only comes on when its running funny. Now that it won't start there's not a code for whatever's wrong.
Not true, you will still have the CM codes if did not unhook the battery.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 11:17 AM
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I was not referring to buying parts. If he has done the swap, he should still have the original ignition module. I have 3 or 4 of those things. They are heat sensitive, and can cause problems all day long. I'd swap back to the original and see if it starts up.

Bob
 
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 12:35 PM
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What is the fuel pressure reading? Are you getting a good spark at the plugs? Is the fuel pressure regulator leaking gas into the vacuum line? Is the CEL burnt out? Does the fuel pump run a second then shut off or run continuously if you just turn the key on without trying to start? Does the engine turn over? Does it sputter and try to start? Do the spark plugs show unusual color?
 
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 02:49 PM
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Put original module back in and it started right up but is missing again. After a few minutes that clears up and since I put a new battery in it....No there were not any codes.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 11:00 PM
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From: The OC
When you changed your battery, you disconnected your battery cables and that will reset your computer and erase stored codes, that is why you have no codes. Run and drive the truck for a while and if you got the check engine light before, you will probably get it again. Check for codes after you drive the truck.

Originally Posted by ehonda
Put original module back in and it started right up but is missing again. After a few minutes that clears up and since I put a new battery in it....No there were not any codes.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 11:05 PM
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I hear ya Bob, that is a generic but meaningful statement I tell everyone, because many people buy alot of parts without checking for codes first. Hell, I did the same thing before I got my code reader years ago and I could've saved some $$$$!

Originally Posted by NWBronco
I was not referring to buying parts.
Bob
 
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 02:09 PM
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This is fun...but not. I went outside to start it today and no go. Left it alone for a couple of hours and it starts with the missing again. SO, I decide fuggit I'm going to drive it in its crappy state to Autozone for a code reader and it clears up. By clear up I mean second gear tire chirps entering the freeway [AOD] and is running great at the moment. When I get home to put the scanner on it nothing happens. It shows no codes and runs great for the time being.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 02:50 PM
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You said no codes, I assume you got code 1 1 1. Now I'm starting to think pick up coil, aka stator assy in the distributor. Symptoms are intermittant ignition problems but will not show a code.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 04:02 PM
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I'm still leaning to fuel for some reason. I finally got an EGR code but earlier today I was having issues with the fuel relay clicking and the pump running too long. Ignition and wiring are all original tho @ 250k miles. I knew I was needing to replace my EGR valve but didn't think it could cause a no start. So, I'm still thinking there's something else wrong.
 
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