Dennis,
You responded to a thread on Aug02,Theft Prevention,
under the 67-72 Trucks. The switch you used for
your starter kill, where did you get it?,
how heavy is it it terms of amperage? etc.
Just in general, I would appreciate any feedback
from the others as to how to hook up the
kill switches, which wires, and how heavy or
big do the switches need to be, and do they
need fuses. I'm somewhat electrically challenged
when it comes to this stuff.
Thanks, Nibog.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 15-Aug-02 AT 05:04 PM (EST)]There's a kill switch you can get that goes between the battery and starter solonoid. It has a key you can remove. This what yer talkin bout? I suppose you could use it on the cable from the starter relay to the starter motor, so you keep power to your radio to remember the stations, and clock, etc. I seen it in the LMC Truck catalog. www.lmctruck.com You just cut the cable, strip the ends and connect it together and when yu wanna disable the starter, you can just turn the key and take it with you. The only way somebody can steal the truck is if they have another wire of the same thickness or if its a manual and they push start it.

 

>The only way somebody can steal the truck is if they have another wire of the same thickness or if its a manual and they push start
>it.
Even if they push start it they still have to get 12VDC to the coil. So they still need a wire. And if they want it that bad, Take it! I don't pay for insurance for nothing!
Russell
1968 F250 LWB 300-6

FORD=First on Race Day
#88 Dale Jarrett
#21 Elliott Sadler
#97 Kurt Busch
#28 Ricky Rudd

 

Well, I's talking about if you put the switch between the relay and starter motor. You can stil get the wires hot, just not the wire to the starter motor.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 15-Aug-02 AT 05:54 PM (EST)]Ahh ok, ignore my last then.
Russell
1968 F250 LWB 300-6

FORD=First on Race Day
#88 Dale Jarrett
#21 Elliott Sadler
#97 Kurt Busch
#28 Ricky Rudd

 

>Dennis,
>You responded to a thread on Aug02,Theft Prevention,
>under the 67-72 Trucks. The switch you used for
>your starter kill, where did you get it?,
>how heavy is it it terms of amperage? etc.
>Just in general, I would appreciate any feedback
>from the others as to how to hook up the
>kill switches, which wires, and how heavy or
>big do the switches need to be, and do they
>need fuses. I'm somewhat electrically challenged
>when it comes to this stuff.
>Thanks, Nibog.

[b]
I have three of them here. They came in pairs.

They cost $8.00 and come with 2 keys.
I got mine from Princess auto.

I drilled a hole in the front door frame area right near the upper hinge.
I ran an insulated (two wire) strand to interrupt the wire that goes the S terminal of the starter solenoid.
As soon as I open the door to get out,I quickly slip the key in a quick turn, and get out.
It is hidden from outside view,the actual wire is un-accessible once the door is open or time consuming to fiddle with it.



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that sounds like a pretty nifty set up you got there, maybe you should do a tech article on it with some pictures, or atleast do it so we could see it. i have my kill switch hooked up to my ignition box, alli do is flip the switch and no power goes to the coil, engine will turn over and over but wont start. gets frustrating if you forget it though,.

1977 F250 460
C6 Hedman Headers
Dual 40 series
edelbrock performer
holley 4160
msd 6a and blaster coil