lube for everything
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From: chicago burbs
lube for everything
hey everyone, in getting my new old truck ready for the road, i searched the forums and found that sae 10w is recomended for the engine oil, sae 50 for the trans, and sae 90 for the axles, btw its a 64 with a 292 4 speed no transfer case but 4x4 axles.
i'm wondering how much of each it takes and to make sure this is correct before i go to farm and fleet.
also if anyone knows the fill point on each that would be great to.
thanks
i'm wondering how much of each it takes and to make sure this is correct before i go to farm and fleet.
also if anyone knows the fill point on each that would be great to.
thanks
Last edited by 21411; Aug 1, 2008 at 05:28 PM. Reason: forgot info
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10w for the engine...above the arctic circle.
Is this a newly rebuilt 292? If so, you can use something like 10w-40 or 20w-50 or straight 20w or 30w depending on your temps, load etc.
But not 10w.
As for the gear box, 50w seems light for this vintage as well. IIRC gear boxes were the same 90w as diffs.
Check for more posts here. Where did you get those suggested weights?
Is this a newly rebuilt 292? If so, you can use something like 10w-40 or 20w-50 or straight 20w or 30w depending on your temps, load etc.
But not 10w.
As for the gear box, 50w seems light for this vintage as well. IIRC gear boxes were the same 90w as diffs.
Check for more posts here. Where did you get those suggested weights?
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From: chicago burbs
i used the search option don't remember which thread
the engine as far as i know is not rebuit but it does sound strong i just didn't want to drive it till i knew i had the right lube in it. it will be parked all winter and a light work mostly fun truck.
in a few years i do plan on having the engine rebuilt and making it a 4x4 again the trans is now 2 wd.
thanks and let me know if more info is needed
the engine as far as i know is not rebuit but it does sound strong i just didn't want to drive it till i knew i had the right lube in it. it will be parked all winter and a light work mostly fun truck.
in a few years i do plan on having the engine rebuilt and making it a 4x4 again the trans is now 2 wd.
thanks and let me know if more info is needed
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Check this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ngine-oil.html
You can post your questions there, or start another thread in the y section.
Good luck.
If it was me, in your area, I'd go with a 10w40, and a 75-90 gear oil for flow in the cold. Maybe one of those extended mileage or old car oils just for the seal swell additive.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ngine-oil.html
You can post your questions there, or start another thread in the y section.
Good luck.
If it was me, in your area, I'd go with a 10w40, and a 75-90 gear oil for flow in the cold. Maybe one of those extended mileage or old car oils just for the seal swell additive.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Correct me if I am wrong, but me thinks any w in the mix means multi weight. Single weight should read SAE 30. 10W40 is getting harder to find, so 10W30 is what I run in my FE. There were not any or many multi weight or detergent oils when our engines were designed, so SAE 30 should be what Ford recommended at the time.
John
John
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Not sure about multi-weights, we were selling them in '71, but detergent was around long before '64.
IIRC, the owner's manual in our '66 wagon had the temp chart for oil weight, spec'ing 20 for really cold, 30 for "normal" temps.
20 in the winter and 30 summer ought to be good.
What do you think for his trans and axle?
IIRC, the owner's manual in our '66 wagon had the temp chart for oil weight, spec'ing 20 for really cold, 30 for "normal" temps.
20 in the winter and 30 summer ought to be good.
What do you think for his trans and axle?
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Elder User
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From: chicago burbs
thanks guys thats a lot of info have to shop around for some of the good stuff that can take care of the upper engine
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Fleet Owner
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From: Brentwood,CA
The trans takes 50w engine oil. However over the years people have put gear oil in with no ill effects. the rear enf should get 75w90 EP gear oil.
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A little late with this thought--do you have any idea what has been run in it?
I can't imagine it still running w/non-detergent after all this time....but you never know. If it has been running non-d, stick with that.
I can't imagine it still running w/non-detergent after all this time....but you never know. If it has been running non-d, stick with that.
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From: chicago burbs
i have no idea what is in it but it runs. has a motorcraft filter and clean looking oil in it. after fixing the wiring that the last guy said he fixed i don't want to go back and ask him. thats another story.
also i just though of this but has anyone used a pump to take the oil out of the diff. since there is no drain i really do not want to start messing with the rear end at this point. really just trying to get it to storage for the winter.
thanks for all the info
also i just though of this but has anyone used a pump to take the oil out of the diff. since there is no drain i really do not want to start messing with the rear end at this point. really just trying to get it to storage for the winter.
thanks for all the info
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
John
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From: chicago burbs
new problem, what engine is it
right now the truck is in my garage and come winter it has to be in storage
ok i know i got ahead of my self but i got some valve cover gaskets since they were leaking and decided to clean and repaint them as i was cleaning them i found the epa sticker saying that this is a 302ci, from 1972, also i put the gaskets i picked up from advance auto parts (felco) on the engine and they do not line up at all. the gasket even covers the screw holes. pics are coming soon. for now all i have is the numbers stamped on the intake D30E=8425-AA and the gasket is not a regular triangle like [ on the engine its kinda rolled back like /.
hope this makes sense. sorry for the length
so for now i'm asking if this is common.
ok i know i got ahead of my self but i got some valve cover gaskets since they were leaking and decided to clean and repaint them as i was cleaning them i found the epa sticker saying that this is a 302ci, from 1972, also i put the gaskets i picked up from advance auto parts (felco) on the engine and they do not line up at all. the gasket even covers the screw holes. pics are coming soon. for now all i have is the numbers stamped on the intake D30E=8425-AA and the gasket is not a regular triangle like [ on the engine its kinda rolled back like /.
hope this makes sense. sorry for the length
so for now i'm asking if this is common.
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D3OE is 1973 Torino....
302 valve covers are trapazoid, with ends like: /----\
Y-block would probably have a cross-over pipe right above the fan from the driver side to the passenger.
Y-block, iirc, has two hold-down bolts through the top of the valve cover.
Gotta run, no time to confirm this through pics, but pics there are on this site of both. If you don't find any, I'll try later. But I think you have a 302, not a y.
Also, what do your engine mounts look like. Y is front mount, and off bell. 302 is side of block.
More later. Don't sweat it, this could be good news. Y's are fine motors, but a 302 is much easier to get parts & power out of without breaking the bank and you back looking for parts.
302 valve covers are trapazoid, with ends like: /----\
Y-block would probably have a cross-over pipe right above the fan from the driver side to the passenger.
Y-block, iirc, has two hold-down bolts through the top of the valve cover.
Gotta run, no time to confirm this through pics, but pics there are on this site of both. If you don't find any, I'll try later. But I think you have a 302, not a y.
Also, what do your engine mounts look like. Y is front mount, and off bell. 302 is side of block.
More later. Don't sweat it, this could be good news. Y's are fine motors, but a 302 is much easier to get parts & power out of without breaking the bank and you back looking for parts.
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