is gas cap vented? could there be some crap in fuel tank blocking flow? are you positive problem is fuel related and not , perhaps, ignition?

 

im thinking ignition.i had not problems untill the moment i cut the muffler off and it started.

 

You said originally you put on "flame throwers" what are they? Did these replace muffler like a glass packs? Did you check fuel pump,and fuel filter?

 

see the thread on my signature and you'll understand.i put an aftermarket see-thru fuel filter between the steel line from the tank to the rubber hose up to the pump.i have not checked the fuel pump yet.im thinking its ignition related.check out this thread.

whats wrong with my 41 Ford??? - THE H.A.M.B.

 

if carb is new rebuild, did you use new base gasket? is fuel filter flowing in right direction? you might want to check coil next time truck acts up. it could be getting too hot, consequently getting ready to puke! coil should be mounted IN air flow to keep cool. IF coil is frying, it could be frying condenser. this would cause higher rpm ,miss that could be seen as a surge. condensers do not know voltage (6 or 12 volt), 49-53 will do just fine. check INSIDE distributor cap, make sure there is no carbon tracking causing miss. make sure vacumn line and all fittings are sound. it's possible vacumn advance is puking. does carb have factory fuel filter on inlet to fuel bowl? these sometimes clog up, especially with new fuel. if so, it can be deleted as long as you keep inline filter in place. that should keep you busy for awhile!

 

Sounds like Petey Shoes has some real good ideas, I would try to "rule out" one system before jumping to next system. You should check carb, fuel filter, fuel pump and tank and make sure the problem is definitely not in fuel system then start checking ignition system. These members, bobj49f2, ALBUQ f-1 or AXRACER are excellent trouble shooters. If nothing else I'm sure you will find your problem and basically end up with a tune-up.

 

Here's a couple of things to try.....
If new fuel tank...some have a return port for fuel injection systems...if you cap this port you will have fuel issues at middle range. It will idle o.k. and run wide open throttle but not good in between...put a vent line on the extra port.
If the "flame thrower" is a new style coil...be sure you do or dont need the ballast resister in line with the dizzy, could be the system is overheating without a ballast resister.
Re-do all the carb settings...holly 94...start the fuel screws at apx. 1.5 turns and put a dwell meter on it, turn the screws apx. 1\8 turn. at a time to get the best idle (highest rpm and smoothest sound) when this is achieved back the fuel mix screws off apx. 1\8 to 1\2 of a turn. Then reset the curb idle speed....per your models repair book.
If still running points...check the point gap, cap contacts and rotor.
Just like your alternator issue, you have to rule out one complete system at a time, if you jump around trying to fix it you will more than likely just be "poke'n and hope'n".
good luck with it, Ed

 

Ed, I have watched his video and I understand that the "Flame thrower" is an exhaust system which lights up the unused fuel exiting the exhaust. He stated that the problem only started after he cut off his muffler and installed the flame thrower. Do you think it could have something to do with the loss of back pressure in the exhaust system and it's effect on the ignition timing? Just a thought, looks like everything else has been covered.

Gil

 

i put on a muffler i had laying around but no difference once it warms up.im so frustrated right now...

 

back pressure shoudn't be a problem from midrange to top end, as energy of engine will " push" exhaust . ballast resistor is needed and could be brittle. part # std-u4 (standard) this is an old chrysler part-porcelain with threaded posts. is it possible that flamethrower had hot wire to ignite and is still connected and drawing current/grounding out? where is fuel filter located? fuel pump pulls fuel, so filter should be as close to pump as possible. within 15-18 inches is optimal. carb settings should not affect mid/high range performance, as vacumn is drawing fuel above high idle. when was last time you replaced points/condenser/cap/ wires? this sounds like electric issue with either overheat or grounding of one or more components. i can't help but think that coil/condenser/cap is issue. do thorough inspection of inside dist cap for carbon tracking!! it could be (jumping)/(arcing) from one cylinder to another at higher rpm's.

 

Just for giggles, make sure when you cut the muffler, if you are using the old pipes, that they weren't full of rust, that dropped down and partially or fully plugged the exhaust pipes. I've seen that happen before, to a guy who replaced his muffler - the exhaust was so old, it had tons of scale, and cutting the pipe, knocked it all down. Took us a LONG time to figure that one out! But it had the surge symptoms, only at higher speeds...sputter, sputter, sputter...

R

 

good point! kinda like a catalytic converter plugged up