E40D transmission
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E40D transmission
Just rebuilt transmission, did everything that I could think of to make it bullet proof, transgo shift kit sweet TQC and extra large tranny cooler. Now I have set MLPS, but all I get is reverse. There is very slight rpms up and down when put in forward gear and out. Gonna replace electric valve pack maybe thats it. Any help would be great thanks in advance Robert
Transmission Rebuilder
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: North Georgia
No the solenoid block wont fix a no forward condition, I would pull the pan and check the manual valve first, just because thats easy, then I would remove the valve body to check the location of the checkballs. This will also give you a chance to aircheck the forward drum which is fed through the centersupport. If you dont have a soild air check it will have to come out.
Most common no forward problems after rebuild have been loose bolts on the centersupport or a blocked passage in the support, especially if you replaced the centersupport with a updated one.
If that is ok there has to be a problem with the forward drum (sealing rings, lip seals, ect.)
Hope this helps
Most common no forward problems after rebuild have been loose bolts on the centersupport or a blocked passage in the support, especially if you replaced the centersupport with a updated one.
If that is ok there has to be a problem with the forward drum (sealing rings, lip seals, ect.)
Hope this helps
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E40d
Okay checked clutches there good. Now I did forget 2 rubber ***** that go in valve body. Now when I compare separator plate gasket in old 1 to new 1 there are a few holes blocked does this mater. Also how do I check control body to see if its working. Thanks very much for help so far. Robert
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Okay redid the complete bottom and its all perfect. Still no forward. When first time installed i clipped tef rings on end of pump shaft. What ya think that I maybe got a piece inside, could that be my problem. Thanks Robert
Transmission Rebuilder
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: North Georgia
More things come to mind,
If the overdrive sprag is in upside down it wont move, it should turn counter clockwise and lock with the clock.
does the drum aircheck through the center support?
You didn't install the two missing checkballs into the center support bolts?
The clutch stack in the drum; starting with the beveled pressure plate, then the cushion plate and a steel plate. Then alternate friction steel, friction, steel until all of the plates are in place. Finish with the thick pressure plate.
Install the original selective snap ring, and check the clearance with a feeler gauge between the snap ring and the pressure plate. The clearance should be between 0.030" - 0.055" (0.75 - 1.40 mm). If the clearance isn't within specs, change the selective snap ring to increase or reduce the clearance.
Check to see if a valve body plate hole blocked with gasket.
Tell me the year of the trans and I can look up checkball locations.
Here are the valves the way they should be in valve body.
If the overdrive sprag is in upside down it wont move, it should turn counter clockwise and lock with the clock.
does the drum aircheck through the center support?
You didn't install the two missing checkballs into the center support bolts?
The clutch stack in the drum; starting with the beveled pressure plate, then the cushion plate and a steel plate. Then alternate friction steel, friction, steel until all of the plates are in place. Finish with the thick pressure plate.
Install the original selective snap ring, and check the clearance with a feeler gauge between the snap ring and the pressure plate. The clearance should be between 0.030" - 0.055" (0.75 - 1.40 mm). If the clearance isn't within specs, change the selective snap ring to increase or reduce the clearance.
Check to see if a valve body plate hole blocked with gasket.
Tell me the year of the trans and I can look up checkball locations.
Here are the valves the way they should be in valve body.
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What is overdrive sprag, air is good to center support. Okay the extra *****, 1 was to go in crank case, other 2 was to go in valve body and I have done this. 1995 diesel 4X4. 9 at 5/16 in crank case, 2 in valve body. and as for the valves I wasn't sure either so took everything off other transmission including gaskets, sep plate ect. hoping as you say maybe blocking off oil flow. The other gasket kit I got new is way different than old one sry the gaskets that go either side of sep plate. Hope this helps thanks Robert
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One thing I've done on my 4r100's is to unplug the wiring for the soleniods and manually shift the trans into 1st. From what I remember of how the hydraulics work in the trans, it should stay in 1st and go forwards. I may be wrong, but it's served me well in the past.
I'd vote for something being either broken or installed wrong in the forward clutches. Did you do the rebuild?
I'd vote for something being either broken or installed wrong in the forward clutches. Did you do the rebuild?
Transmission Rebuilder
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,570
Likes: 63
From: North Georgia
not shure what you mean?
the gaskets are different.
the "long" one goes on the case "crank case?"
then plate
then "shorter" gasket
small metal plate has no gasket material under it
small metal plate has no gasket material under it
Transmission Rebuilder
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,570
Likes: 63
From: North Georgia
overdrive sprag
When the sprag is properly installed, the snap ring in the ID of the sprag outer race is visible, the step in the ID of the inner race is visible, and the inner race spins freely counter-clockwise, and 'locks with the clock'. Install the snap ring that holds the sprag or roller clutch into the ring gear.
When the sprag is properly installed, the snap ring in the ID of the sprag outer race is visible, the step in the ID of the inner race is visible, and the inner race spins freely counter-clockwise, and 'locks with the clock'. Install the snap ring that holds the sprag or roller clutch into the ring gear.