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Hi everyone,
I have not posted in quite a while but I have a problem with my 97 F250 PSD.
Thursday truck started loosing power and boost would not go over 5psi even under load. Idled rough and a lot of vibration at 2000rpm. Changed fuel filter which was very dirty, checked oil. Same problem so I figured it was time for the CPS recall to be done. On the way to Ford dealer lost all power and finaly died on side of road, would not restart. Towed to dealer who changed the CPS but truck would not start. Scanner said all electricals were good so tech said O-rings on injectors was problem. Needed to do glow plugs anyway so I changed out O-rings on Saturday. Still no start. Cleaned pressure regulator screen (should have done this first) and truck started and idled smooth. Replaced schaeder valve with pressure gauge and got less than 20psi at idle. Test drive went fine for 1/2 mile when same loss of power occured.
Is this pressure too low for idle and does it indicate a bad fuel pump?
Will shimming the FPR fix this low pressure assuming the fuel pump is good?
Is there a way to flush the complete fuel system?
My truck is dead in the driveway so any help will be greatly appreciated.
If it starts Ok when cold then takes a crap after it gets hot you need IPR orings.
Unplug the ICP, if it runs better the ICP may be bad.
It will take a long time to re-start after injector orings. Keep the batteries fully charged and don't burn up the starter. You can bleed the HPO system to help get it fired quicker. Remove one of the plugs in the HPO rail and crank it until you see oil. Do it on both sides.
20psi is low, should make it idle rough but run. Shimming the FPR may work but will kill a weak pump pretty quick.
Yo can flush the fuel system by running straight bio-diesel. Get a couple fuel filters, you'll need them.
Thanks for the pictures and instructions. My truck is a 97 so it is set up a little different. Is there a way to test any of these components, especially the fuel pump, before I start taking stuff apart? I will to the FPR shim tonight if the weather holds up.
Thanks for all the help so far. Popped the hood this evening and the fuel pressure gauge was zero. Cranked it over for a while, pressure got up to 10 and dropped off when I stopped cranking. Found the fuel filter gasket was on upside down and leaking fuel around top of resevoir. Fixed that and got it started, fuel pressure at steady 12psi. Shimmed FPRwith one BB. Pressure went to 15psi. Added another BB, no change in pressure. Idles rough but holds pressure after shutdown. Pressure vents through FPR when I opened it up for the second BB.
Connected the scanner, passed KOEO test, passed injector buzz test, got PO344 CPSAC1 code during run test. Scanner says this is Cam Position Sensor A Circuit Intermitent (Bank 1). Does this mean the new CPS is bad?
The truck was runing fine on Wednesday and Thursday this problem started. Could the FPR be buggered up some how? Seems like two BBs should have gotten me some pressure increase.
Just noticed your are running 100% BioDiesel. Just started using it or have you been running this for a while with no issues? Got that rat's nets out yet.
Been running B100 through the summer for 3 years now. I blend with winter diesel when the temperature gets down to 40F. No problems and the injector seals showed no degradation when I swapped them out last weekend. The fuel filters pick up a lot of crap the bio breaks loose.
The pressure guage had dropped from 12 to 3 psi overnight so I still have an issue with a leak somewhere. I evicted the rodents but with all the fuel that has been spilled/leaked over the last few days I can't tell if the filter bowl is weaping through the bottom. Since shimming the FPR did not get me more pressure I am thinking it is not the pump but either a problem with the FPR and/or the leak somwhere.
Installed a new pump Friday. 55psi at the FPR and truck runs like new. Thanks to everone who helped with suggestions and info.
I used a 1-1/4" socket with a short extension to slip over the bango bolt. I was then able to use a pair of water pump pliers to turn the socket. Much easier than working with the big box end wrench.
While putting the FPR back on I dropped the little check ball that sits behind the air bleed. Could not find that little white ball even though the valley was clear of all mouse house. If you are ever in a pinch the truck will run fine without the little ball. Don't know if this will create a problem in the future so I plan ot replace it.