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1995 PS Hard start / Abnormally long DESPERATE!!

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Old 09-23-2011, 01:50 PM
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1995 PS Hard start / Abnormally long DESPERATE!!

Hello,

I just hope someone can help me from this forum
Nobody was able to guide me in correct direction from Dieselstop.com
and get this straight the Ford dealer itself...

So here is the symptoms
1995 Powerstroke 7.3 Turbo
Whether cold or hot takes anywhere from 10-20 seconds of solid cranking maybe even with a charger attached to it to fire
works on all 8 once started, beautiful smooth idle and lots of power on the road with no smoke, no DTC's in computer

Here's what the ford dealer's precious 150$ diagnostic said:
Abnormal long crank start and icp low psi and abruptly jumps to min injector firing treshold of 500psi
Possible causes 1. IPR valve 2. HPOP worn out

Here's what i've done so far to no avail (i have a truck for parts same year)
-Swapped ICP's (ran it ipr unplugged no change, chk engine light comes on)
- Swapped ECU's
- Swapped Cam position sensor
- Swapped and or cleaned 2 different IPR valves
- Changed HPOP pump
- Checked glow plug relay, known and tested glow plugs (start temp at test was above 20 degrees Celsius)
- Changed fuel filter, cleaned fuel screen, shrader shows 50psi on crank fuel pressure
- Injector o-rings have been changed and head gaskets 2 years prior
i'm sure im forgetting something i've done because i've tried almost anything...

What i notice is that my hpop reservoir is about 2.5 inches from the top once the truck hasnt been started in 1-2 days
1 inch from top when i manage to start it
When i hold my finger over peep hole while cranking it takes a long time for oil pressure to build up and push my finger.

What im suspecting is the main oil pump
Can anyone confirm this could be possible or what kind of readings should i get on the HPOP reservoir when cranking and/or while running (i can attach a gage to that no problem)

Please help
 
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Old 09-23-2011, 02:27 PM
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Is the By pass valve in the oil filter end of the cooler Still in place ?With the oil filter off you can see it ...

Have you had the V covers off & observed the oil spilling from the spouts on the injectors ?
 
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Old 09-23-2011, 02:49 PM
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Here is a picture of that bypass valve Rick was referring to ...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...***-valve.html

First post in the thread above. To answer your question oil pressure inside the HPOP reservoir is normal low pressure from oil pump in pan, 20 -50 PSI.
 
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Old 09-23-2011, 03:03 PM
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you should check your hpop pressure but be aware that the pressures will be in the thousands of lbs of pressure if its working right. not just any gauge is going to work. theres instructions all over this forum on how to construct one though. and the top of the reservoir is not the place to test as that low pressure oil right there. if you are swapping parts off of a parts truck are you sure the parts are good? the ipr valve i think can be rebuilt with new o rings and such but check the coil too. is it secure with the tin nut on it? does it have continuity?
 
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Old 09-23-2011, 04:21 PM
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OK i did pop off the right valve cover and i saw no oil sputting out those spouts when cranking did not go all the way as the engine starting because i didnt want to make a mess, meaning no oil reaches hpop so it can build up high pressure.

Didnt check for that filter check valve, never noticed anything missing or falling off

I did plug a 1000psi gage to the hpop high pressure lines going to each head and it broke the gage literally exploded

Dont know what else this could be, it happened all of a sudden, not gradually
 
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Old 09-23-2011, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Hussler
Here is a picture of that bypass valve Rick was referring to ...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...***-valve.html

First post in the thread above. To answer your question oil pressure inside the HPOP reservoir is normal low pressure from oil pump in pan, 20 -50 PSI.
Y.T.M Jim ...
 
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Old 09-23-2011, 05:12 PM
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Yes ipr is cleaned and solenoids tested and retaining nuts tight as some recommend otherwise it malfunctions
 
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Old 09-23-2011, 06:14 PM
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IPR pressure usually stays about 200 PSI on cranking until PCM detects proper engine RPM and cylinder detection from the CPS. After that it (PCM) ramps up the oil pressure to the injectors really fast, within a few seconds, and can go over 2000 PSI then quickly drops down to 500 PSI for idle. Since you blew you gauge out my assumption is you had a crappy gauge or you did have acquitted pressure, don't know and Ford is indicating it's not the case.

Since no oil is coming out the injector spouts for some reason the PCM has the IDM locked because it is not seeing some input it needs to command the injectors to fire. Do you have any more information on when this happened and any service you might of done before?

And welcome to FTE .. you are on the right site and many more experts are sure to chime in.
 
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:18 PM
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Thanks for the warm welcome Hussler

Actually nothing was done to the truck it was sitting under a tent for pretty much 3 weeks without any running when this started. its a truck that doesnt get alot of mileage always stays put and ready to go for when its needed

Myself and my father rebuilt the engine back in 2009 i beleive new o rings on injectors galley plugs were done injector cups in the head and head gaskets all was verified

The engine doesnt leak any oil on the ground nor burn any.
 
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Old 09-23-2011, 08:41 PM
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I know this sounds silly, but, did you check your glow plug solenoid.
Just like a starter solenoid they will crap out on you too.
 
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Old 09-23-2011, 08:49 PM
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yes its checked its called the glow plug relay and trust me i have a bunch of diesels and in summer time they dont need glow plugs to start
 
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Old 09-23-2011, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by TUNINGBYAMG
yes its checked its called the glow plug relay and trust me i have a bunch of diesels and in summer time they dont need glow plugs to start
We are all trying to help . You should respond appropriately ...

A post from TDS a month or so ago ago :

08-08-2011, 09:58 PM #7 (permalink)
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What do you mean by GPR? what does that acronym stand for?

sumter- i know i'm going to ruin starter and batteries if this goes on so thats why i want to resolve it as quickly as possible
As far as the GPR & GP's go .. engine temp has less to do with it than air temp does. I have had to replace my GPR 2 times in the summer so far .. I can tell right away when it is not working . Testing across the posts is not a good test unless you use a meter & look for voltage drop . Hearing it click means the coil is working ,nothing more ..

Good luck ...
 
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Old 09-23-2011, 10:52 PM
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Yes i know and i appreciate that, im just really frustrated because honestly this is the only american vehicle i've owned, and honestly diagnosing problems on this engine is a nightmare because its not well engineered at all.

Action4478, i dont see the relation you're pointing out... even without glow plugs i shouldnt be cranking 15+ seconds on a perfectly sunny summer hot day.
 
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Old 09-24-2011, 07:24 AM
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Glad you brought the problem here. Like I said before, a little while back I couldn't even spell macanic, now I are one with these guys help. I never heard of looking for that valve! I hope it's something simple like that.
 
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by TUNINGBYAMG
Yes i know and i appreciate that, im just really frustrated because honestly this is the only american vehicle i've owned, and honestly diagnosing problems on this engine is a nightmare because its not well engineered at all.

Action4478, i dont see the relation you're pointing out... even without glow plugs i shouldnt be cranking 15+ seconds on a perfectly sunny summer hot day.
Frustration is no excuse for being an a-hole. It would be wise not to spit in the face of someone lending a hand. We're all brothers on this site, if you're a jerk to one, you won't get help from ANYONE. If this is the first American vehicle you've had, then you're no expert. Either be respectful or fix it yourself.
 

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