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Cooling or A/C trouble...

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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 07:57 AM
  #1  
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Cooling or A/C trouble...

Last week I started to get a LOT of vapor out of the A/C vents- even when using the outside air and no A/C... thought it was the humidity. Also noticed an extra amount of drainage from area of the A/C drain pipe under the truck when I parked it.

This morning I took a closer look at the 'extra drainage' and it was slick..ie: coolant, not just A/C drainage. Checked the coolant level and it was non-existant...

Anyone run into this before?

Is it a leak in the heater core?
If so, do I need to remove the dash to get to the core?
Book says to discharge the A/C when removing the core - do I have to?

Any other suspects?

Thanks!
 
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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Thunder Road
Last week I started to get a LOT of vapor out of the A/C vents- even when using the outside air and no A/C... thought it was the humidity. Also noticed an extra amount of drainage from area of the A/C drain pipe under the truck when I parked it.

This morning I took a closer look at the 'extra drainage' and it was slick..ie: coolant, not just A/C drainage. Checked the coolant level and it was non-existant...

Anyone run into this before?

Is it a leak in the heater core?
If so, do I need to remove the dash to get to the core?
Book says to discharge the A/C when removing the core - do I have to?

Any other suspects?

Thanks!
That sounds like a classic heater core failure.
You have to remove the instrument panel, evacuate the AC, remove and split the heater/AC case to replace it.
It's not a "hard" job, just time consuming.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 09:07 AM
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Yep sounds like your heater core is leaking. It is a very time consuming job.. also i have read that you dont need to evac. the a/c system to do it.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobby82490
also i have read that you dont need to evac. the a/c system to do it.

Depends on the vehicle. He didn't explicitly identify what he has.

Most trucks don't.

Steve
 
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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 10:05 AM
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Thanks guys... it's a '98 F150.

Is it "possible" that a heater hose could be spewing?

I'm asking because it seems that replacing a hose would be an easier job... KWIM?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 10:32 AM
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It is not likely to be a simple hose problem. Here is a document on how to do the job. Heater core replacement instruction sheet Good luck!
 
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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 07:00 PM
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Thanks King - I appreciate this.

Tell me is this an all day job.. ie: 6am till dark...or do I need to plan a couple of vacation days?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 07:48 PM
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depends on your knowledge level, your drive to get it done, and how much beer you consume!!

Mark
 
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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 07:51 PM
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a coworker of mine took one apart, he was on his second day when the boss had me help him finish it....

we only had 19 screws leftover...

Mark
 
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Old Jul 16, 2008 | 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Thunder Road
Thanks King - I appreciate this.

Tell me is this an all day job.. ie: 6am till dark...or do I need to plan a couple of vacation days?
With a helper following along with the procedure that King provided, I would guess 8-10 hours on a Saturday for someone who hasn't pulled an IP before. This assumes that all of the replacement parts are on hand and your tool assortment is up to the task and within easy reach as needed.

Contrary to the editing in the procedure, I would recommend completely removing the IP from the truck if you have never done this repair. You can then look at things from the "back side" and understand how everything fits together for assembly. If you should need to do this repair on another truck later, the "abbreviated" version will make much more sense and be that much easier. A skilled Tech can do this in about 4 hours.

The total time will be directly affected by how much beer you and your helper consume during the repair. With "good" beer, this could be a 3 day weekend project.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2008 | 10:48 AM
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The link that I provided is not mine, it is one that I have bookmarked for the day that my own starts leaking down the road. I found it referenced in another thread a while back by the author of the document. Unfortunately I don't remember the original posters user name right off hand. Good luck in getting the job done!
 
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Old Jul 16, 2008 | 10:19 PM
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i dont know how bad your radiator is, but if your lacking time right now, i would get a bototle of the BARS radiator sealer and pour it in , refill the radiator and run an hour and see what happens. probably will postpone the replacement for some time. if its a pin hole or small crack, its a good fix. if the core is rotten, you will postpone the inevitable.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2008 | 11:06 PM
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Another temporary solution, that's guaranteed to stop the heater core leak w/o much work & is especially attractive in summer, is to simply disconnect the heater. An easy way is to leave the (often difficult) Quick Connects attached to the heater & pull the other end of these hoses off, then add a hose to reconnect these pipes & bypass the heater entirely. This will give you time to build up the courage to tackle the dash R&R.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2008 | 05:46 AM
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Club,
I had been thinkg of that very thing. I had to do that on our '55 ford Fairlane and was wondering if there were any sensors in this late model vehicle that would stop me from doing the same thing.

I'm thinking I'm gonna go that route, if there isn't.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 10:34 AM
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You might have to bypass for now. I dont leak but I installed a heater valve with a vaccum control to bypass my heater all together so during the summer a/c gets a little colder. When I turn on the ac or vent the core is automatically bypassed. 11 for valve,3 for a 5/8 heater hose and a vaccum T. One thing you didnt mention, the smell. If heater core is bad it will smell.
 
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