Torque Converter for E4OD
Torque Converter for E4OD
If you want some background info on my trans issues, it barfed from overheating here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...p-my-e4od.html
So I'm told to replace my torque converter with a low stall one. What exactly is a low stall converter? What are the benefits and negative effects of this? Is it really worth it to replace the converter with a low stall and not an OEM model? How do I know which one to get? Any way of testing the current one (its not slipping...)? I'm going to have the trans out to replace the seal on the front that was damaged in the barfing, so replacing the converter isn't really a big deal...
Ooh, and whats that seal that goes out in the front called anyways? I'd like to order it before I take the trans out...
Sorry for the boat-load of questions, but I'm new to the automatic trans thing... Ooh, and its a 94 E4OD 460. Thanks in advance!
So I'm told to replace my torque converter with a low stall one. What exactly is a low stall converter? What are the benefits and negative effects of this? Is it really worth it to replace the converter with a low stall and not an OEM model? How do I know which one to get? Any way of testing the current one (its not slipping...)? I'm going to have the trans out to replace the seal on the front that was damaged in the barfing, so replacing the converter isn't really a big deal...
Ooh, and whats that seal that goes out in the front called anyways? I'd like to order it before I take the trans out...
Sorry for the boat-load of questions, but I'm new to the automatic trans thing... Ooh, and its a 94 E4OD 460. Thanks in advance!
What stall means is, you lock your brakes. Put the transmission in gear. Step on the gas pedal. Watch the tachometer, what ever rpm the engine stays at is the stall speed. It is basicly when the torque converter "hooks up" ie absorbs the power and will hold the engine there. With a low stall that means it will read a lower rpm, than say a high stall converter. It is best to have the stall speed optimized for the engine. If it is too low a stall speed you could lug the engine, ie operate it at a point where it doesn't make much power or torque. A torque converter is like having some extra gears as it does multiply the torque effect, thus it is called a torque converter. For racing they use a high stall speed, because that allows the engine to rev higher and into a higher HP rpm band. And yes to do that there is more designed in slippage than with lower stall speed.
A low stall speed torque converter will not build up heat like a high stall unit will. Personally if you are going to haul heavy loads, towing etc. Go with the factory TC. If its just puddle jumping you could probably go lower if there is such an animal. They are only going to go so low, as a torque converter always has some slippage.
A low stall speed torque converter will not build up heat like a high stall unit will. Personally if you are going to haul heavy loads, towing etc. Go with the factory TC. If its just puddle jumping you could probably go lower if there is such an animal. They are only going to go so low, as a torque converter always has some slippage.
torque converter
hello im new here and just came across your post. I build torque converters for a living and can tell you that replacing your converter is a must. The ford e4od is the major problem in that tranny. the problem lies under the hub in the converter. factory puts a metal plate under the hub in a standard low stall conveter which makes an over heating problem and the clearence goes out and your conveter is shot. you want a low stall converter with a billet cover and a bearing under the hub that is a must. the billet cover will help with the lock up and help with overheating of the linning. I havnt had one come back in over 3 yrs. i also made a super low stall e40d which will lower the stall alot and the tranny temp as well gd luck
hello im new here and just came across your post. I build torque converters for a living and can tell you that replacing your converter is a must. The ford e4od is the major problem in that tranny. the problem lies under the hub in the converter. factory puts a metal plate under the hub in a standard low stall conveter which makes an over heating problem and the clearence goes out and your conveter is shot. you want a low stall converter with a billet cover and a bearing under the hub that is a must. the billet cover will help with the lock up and help with overheating of the linning. I havnt had one come back in over 3 yrs. i also made a super low stall e40d which will lower the stall alot and the tranny temp as well gd luck
I also heard that its a good idea to drill out some hole to 1/4" somewhere, like the fluid inlet or something. Anybody know where this is?
Also, I found a bolt going into the side of the trans case, between the shifter linkage and pan. Is it safe to take this bolt out to drain the fluid (I'm really tired of it going everywhere...) or is it some sort of adjustment screw?
hello im new here and just came across your post. I build torque converters for a living and can tell you that replacing your converter is a must. The ford e4od is the major problem in that tranny. the problem lies under the hub in the converter. factory puts a metal plate under the hub in a standard low stall conveter which makes an over heating problem and the clearence goes out and your conveter is shot. you want a low stall converter with a billet cover and a bearing under the hub that is a must. the billet cover will help with the lock up and help with overheating of the linning. I havnt had one come back in over 3 yrs. i also made a super low stall e40d which will lower the stall alot and the tranny temp as well gd luck
As far as what e4od converters to buy you first should ask if there is a bearing under the hub. Make sure its not fords new bearing set up i seen alot of wear on them latley. This wear causes the clearences to close up and then your converter is trashed. second make sure the pump fins are furnaced brazed or welded alot of these companies say heavy duty and there are only 4 tack welds in the pump. As far as billet covers make sure that the studs dont have pins in them.They would be on either side of the studs. Our company charges 350.00 for a beefed up tripple lining converter and our super low stall that i build is all tricked out and maxed out for 500.00 you will see them on the internet 4 700 to 1000 you can send me a message if you want and we can talk more about the internals and getting your moneys worth if you want
[IM LOOKING FOR A BUIKT TC FOR MY 97 F350. I AM WANTING A TC BUILT FOR 500-600HP. I SEE YOUR ORETTY KNOWLEDGABLE AND IM IN A SMALL TOWN WITH NOT MANY EXOERIECMED BUILDERS. CAN YIU HELP?
QUOTE=the builder;6379892]As far as what e4od converters to buy you first should ask if there is a bearing under the hub. Make sure its not fords new bearing set up i seen alot of wear on them latley. This wear causes the clearences to close up and then your converter is trashed. second make sure the pump fins are furnaced brazed or welded alot of these companies say heavy duty and there are only 4 tack welds in the pump. As far as billet covers make sure that the studs dont have pins in them.They would be on either side of the studs. Our company charges 350.00 for a beefed up tripple lining converter and our super low stall that i build is all tricked out and maxed out for 500.00 you will see them on the internet 4 700 to 1000 you can send me a message if you want and we can talk more about the internals and getting your moneys worth if you want[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=the builder;6379892]As far as what e4od converters to buy you first should ask if there is a bearing under the hub. Make sure its not fords new bearing set up i seen alot of wear on them latley. This wear causes the clearences to close up and then your converter is trashed. second make sure the pump fins are furnaced brazed or welded alot of these companies say heavy duty and there are only 4 tack welds in the pump. As far as billet covers make sure that the studs dont have pins in them.They would be on either side of the studs. Our company charges 350.00 for a beefed up tripple lining converter and our super low stall that i build is all tricked out and maxed out for 500.00 you will see them on the internet 4 700 to 1000 you can send me a message if you want and we can talk more about the internals and getting your moneys worth if you want[/QUOTE]
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[IM LOOKING FOR A BUIKT TC FOR MY 97 F350. I AM WANTING A TC BUILT FOR 500-600HP. I SEE YOUR ORETTY KNOWLEDGABLE AND IM IN A SMALL TOWN WITH NOT MANY EXOERIECMED BUILDERS. CAN YIU HELP?
QUOTE=the builder;6379892]As far as what e4od converters to buy you first should ask if there is a bearing under the hub. Make sure its not fords new bearing set up i seen alot of wear on them latley. This wear causes the clearences to close up and then your converter is trashed. second make sure the pump fins are furnaced brazed or welded alot of these companies say heavy duty and there are only 4 tack welds in the pump. As far as billet covers make sure that the studs dont have pins in them.They would be on either side of the studs. Our company charges 350.00 for a beefed up tripple lining converter and our super low stall that i build is all tricked out and maxed out for 500.00 you will see them on the internet 4 700 to 1000 you can send me a message if you want and we can talk more about the internals and getting your moneys worth if you want
QUOTE=the builder;6379892]As far as what e4od converters to buy you first should ask if there is a bearing under the hub. Make sure its not fords new bearing set up i seen alot of wear on them latley. This wear causes the clearences to close up and then your converter is trashed. second make sure the pump fins are furnaced brazed or welded alot of these companies say heavy duty and there are only 4 tack welds in the pump. As far as billet covers make sure that the studs dont have pins in them.They would be on either side of the studs. Our company charges 350.00 for a beefed up tripple lining converter and our super low stall that i build is all tricked out and maxed out for 500.00 you will see them on the internet 4 700 to 1000 you can send me a message if you want and we can talk more about the internals and getting your moneys worth if you want
Is your converter a six stud or four stud I can do a build for both what kind of abuse are you going to do with it just heavy hauling or racing and do you have a tuner hooked up
hello im new here and just came across your post. I build torque converters for a living and can tell you that replacing your converter is a must. The ford e4od is the major problem in that tranny. the problem lies under the hub in the converter. factory puts a metal plate under the hub in a standard low stall conveter which makes an over heating problem and the clearence goes out and your conveter is shot. you want a low stall converter with a billet cover and a bearing under the hub that is a must. the billet cover will help with the lock up and help with overheating of the linning. I havnt had one come back in over 3 yrs. i also made a super low stall e40d which will lower the stall alot and the tranny temp as well gd luck
E40D Coverter upgrade or built right
As far as what e4od converters to buy you first should ask if there is a bearing under the hub. Make sure its not fords new bearing set up i seen alot of wear on them latley. This wear causes the clearences to close up and then your converter is trashed. second make sure the pump fins are furnaced brazed or welded alot of these companies say heavy duty and there are only 4 tack welds in the pump. As far as billet covers make sure that the studs dont have pins in them.They would be on either side of the studs. Our company charges 350.00 for a beefed up tripple lining converter and our super low stall that i build is all tricked out and maxed out for 500.00 you will see them on the internet 4 700 to 1000 you can send me a message if you want and we can talk more about the internals and getting your moneys worth if you want
Looking for Torque converter amd seal kit
[QUOTE=the builder;6365646]hello im new here and just came across your post. I build torque converters for a living and can tell you that replacing your converter is a must. The ford e4od is the major problem in that tranny. the problem lies under the hub in the converter. Hello builder I saw this post and am shopping for torque converter are you still building? I know its an old one. Please send info i have 93 bronco 5.0 302 E4od. Ponce.702@gmail.com 7023017148
[QUOTE=FPONCE;20593193]
That member last posted here back in 2007, at least to this thread. Its entirely possilbe and likely he's no longer a regular contributor here.
hello im new here and just came across your post. I build torque converters for a living and can tell you that replacing your converter is a must. The ford e4od is the major problem in that tranny. the problem lies under the hub in the converter. Hello builder I saw this post and am shopping for torque converter are you still building? I know its an old one. Please send info i have 93 bronco 5.0 302 E4od. Ponce.702@gmail.com 7023017148
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