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The stall rating of a converter is the theoretical rpm the engine will reach when the output of the trans is locked (brakes applied). Different ratings give a indication of how 'tight' one converter is to another. Higher stall speeds mean a 'looser' converter and the engine will have to rev higher before the car will move. This can be used to advantage with a high-reving motor with low torque at low rpm. You allow the engine to flash into its power band before seeing a load. However, High-stall converters have trade offs. Do you want to have to rev to 3000 rpm at every stop sign?
ALSO, a torque converter will stall at different rpms with different torque inputs. Put a high torque engine in front of a converter rated at a lower torque and it's stall speed will be higher. The engine has more force available to twist the converter.
The stall speed is adjusted by changing the vane angle inside the converter when it is made. After the converter is built, the stall speed is not adjustable.
Ricers and punk kids need to learn the phrase "I'm going to install a STALL CONVERTER" doesn't mean a darn thing and saying it only shows the speaker
s ignorance. ALL converters have stall. The important thing is what is the rated rpm and at what input torque was that rating made.
And, high stall converters generate a lot of heat so get a cooler.
A bad trick some people do is to use a converter from a lower power vehicle but of the same bolt pattern and fit it to a higher power engine. This gives a higher stall, but usually the converter won't stand up to the power for long and then lucnhes the rest of the tranny. A lot of the guys on a chebby list discovered this way back when they installed S10 truck converters into a heavy Imapala SS. Great stall, lots of fun, but tranny damage was not too far into your future.
I personally would not go with a higher stall than about 2,500. Had a 3,600 RPM converter once and it was tons of fun but a PITA for normal driving, especially rain.