Thank you guys for all your help.

 

when you have a no start..is the fuel bowl full?? could be a weak pump or the screen in the tank could be pluged...

 

I have checked the fuel bowl and it was full. But what would allow it to start fine in the morning?

 

That's why I was asking about the fuel filter. Maybe some crud settles after it is off for a while then it starts up ok. An easy thing to try is when it is warm and giving you a hard time starting, remove the pick up line and blow air back into the tank through the pickupscreen that Ron just mentioned. Put the line back and put the key on but don't start it until the fuel bowl is full again. See how she start then.

 

has your cam shaft position sensor (CPS) ever been changed under warrenty???...when you have a no start..when cranking..look at the tac and see if it moves..

 

I will try to blow air back into the tank, which is the pick up line? I guess I can try and figure it out. My CPS was changed. The tac does move as I'm cranking.

 

Kind of late with an update,lol, but I'm still having the same problem. Since my last post I have done the in-tank mod, replaced the fuel pump, and replaced the IPR. Still just cranks after warm-up. Could it be the injector o-rings?

 

...Yep....
Also ,, this is from Swamps ...:


Though it could be the IPR, I don't think it's likely in this case.

I'm betting that you have some injector issues...specifically surrounding the poppet valve on one (or more) injectors.

The poppet valve is the one single area of a PSD injector that just flat out wears. It's similar to a valve in a cylinder head that beats itself into it's valveseat.

As the poppet valve opens and closes (with each injection), it meters the high pressure oil flow in/out of the inj.

With each opening and closing, the seat is being hammered by the valve...causing it (over millions of cycles) to seat lower and lower into the injector...until clearance under the armature is lost.

Once the armature bottoms out on the inj body, the valve cannot "reach" the seat to seal high pressure oil from leaking out of the injector.

The reason that the truck runs when cold, and dies (and won't restart until it has cooled significantly) is that cold oil is thick...and can bridge the gap created by a poor valve & seat seal.

once the oil is warm, it thins out, and can now leak around that valve creating a tremendous amount of "spillage" that the oil pump can not now keep up with...once the amount of the leak exceeds the capacity of the pump...pressure falls, and the injectors simply cannot fire without (approx) 450psi of high pressure oil...so the truck dies.

you can physically measure this yourself.

Pull both valvecovers, and start the truck...it won't be horribly messy, just a little oil splash around the valvetrain.

As the truck (oil) heats up and dies, have someone crank on the starter attempting to restart the truck.

You should be able to look at each injector, and find one that it puking oil out from around the (just above) the hold down clamp.

You may need to mop up any oil that settles down in the low spot of the head to help you see which injector is actually puking...

once you've isolated which inj(s) are puking, pull the solenoid (4 # torx 15 screws), remove the harness to that inj, remove the little aluminum spacer plate...

what you are now looking at is the armature plate...the little ~1"x1" square plate, with the goofy screw (poppet screw) going through it's center.

On a brand new injector, there should typically be .003"-.004" (three to four thousanths of an inch) gap under that armature (measured with a feeler gauge)...

My bet is that your injectors have enough poppet seat wear that they have less than .0015 (less than one and one half thou of an inch) gap...practically zero.

if you can't get a .0015" feeler under the armature plate, then that injector is a problem, and it is a good indication that the others within that set need some machining to bring them back into spec. so that they will operate correctly.

 

Thanks alot, that makes a whole lot of sense. It doesn't die, it runs great, but when I shut it off I have the starting issue. Can the injector(s) be repaired or do I have to buy new ones (expensive)?

 

The o rings can be checked while the truck is running , oil will come up from the base of the injector if the uppers are bad ,,,as Dave said in his post ,,the poppet clearence can be checked in place ,,if they are out of spec ,they need to be machined ....or replace the injector...

 

Poppet screw pics....here....