Another Starting Problem Thread!!!
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2012
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Another Starting Problem Thread!!!
My beast is about to drive me insane. It is a 1992 F-350 with a 1993 IDIT engine overhauled within 20k miles by a well known performance diesel shop in Southwest MO.
A few months ago it developed a hard starting issue and produced no smoke during cranking. I did a return line job on it and that problem went away. More recently, as the temperature began dropping, it became harder and harder to start. It took 30-45 seconds of cranking to get it to start and it was producing white smoke(unburnt diesel.) Two days ago I had all glow plugs changed out with new Motorcraft plugs. The WTS light stays on for 10-15 seconds and goes out. After it goes out you can hear the relay clicking just like its supposed to.
It is still starting just as hard as it was before. It works fine when warm but if you let the engine cool, you have to crank a lot to get it started. I am running a Wix 33417 fuel filter that eliminated the lower bowl as I was having problems with it about the same time as the return line replacement.
Any help you can offer is greatly appreciated.
A few months ago it developed a hard starting issue and produced no smoke during cranking. I did a return line job on it and that problem went away. More recently, as the temperature began dropping, it became harder and harder to start. It took 30-45 seconds of cranking to get it to start and it was producing white smoke(unburnt diesel.) Two days ago I had all glow plugs changed out with new Motorcraft plugs. The WTS light stays on for 10-15 seconds and goes out. After it goes out you can hear the relay clicking just like its supposed to.
It is still starting just as hard as it was before. It works fine when warm but if you let the engine cool, you have to crank a lot to get it started. I am running a Wix 33417 fuel filter that eliminated the lower bowl as I was having problems with it about the same time as the return line replacement.
Any help you can offer is greatly appreciated.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,206
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From: Oakhust NJ Jersey Shore
I am sure that you checked for proper voltage to the glowplugs when you turn the key on right? Make sure the glowplugs are getting a good ground, take you voltage ohm meter on ohms, black lead to the negative battery and after you unplug the glowplugs touch your red lead to each glowplug terminal, should be no more than 4 ohms. I had a problem with the connector (hot leads) coming off the relay, If IRC those wires are orange, the connector in side melted and was causing poor power to the glowplugs, but on the outside of the grey connector it looked fine. If you have access to a amp meter clamp it to each glowplug and make sure each plug is drawing 10-20 amps. Make sure you are getting power to the enrichment solenoid on the injection pump. there is a red wire ti the left lower section on the injection pump that should get power during cold starts. allows more fuel to enter when cold, it's not the idle up solenoid but it might be tied into that same circuit. Keep me posted on how you make out.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2012
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Starter and batteries are less than 1yr old. Connections are spotless, I clean them at every oil change. I will check what others have posted as well and reply back with the results. It may be a couple days.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2013
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If your betties are interstates or made by interstate, like napa. I've seen 5 in the last two years that have weak cells and wont start a diesel. I would load test them, and if they just barley pass it could be your problem.
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