brakes - pass or play?
#1
brakes - pass or play?
I have a 2001 F150 4.6L supercab with approximately 125K miles. Absolutely a great truck with no issues and owned it since I drove it off the lot new. I expect to enjoy it for many more years to come. I think the pads on the front brakes need replacing - the rears were done 20k ago at a local tire dealer (fronts too but not as recently). Is replacing the front pads something I should attempt. I have enough tools and knowledge to get myself in trouble but who of us doesn't. I'm somewhat handy but by no means an engineer. Is this somethiing I should tackle or leave to the dealer?
PS. I'm just talking about pad replacement if that is all there is to it. If I was definitely having brake issues and problems I would certainly let the pros do it.
Thanks,
PS. I'm just talking about pad replacement if that is all there is to it. If I was definitely having brake issues and problems I would certainly let the pros do it.
Thanks,
#2
Easy job, just take your time and only do one side at a time, that way you can look at the other side for reference if needed. Just block the tires and jack up the front end (use jackstands don't depend on the jack). Take off the wheel and there are two bolts to take off the caliper. Slide off the caliper and hang it out of the way with a bungee cord, don't let it hang by the hose. You need to resurface the rotors or replace them. (If you don't resurface/replace the rotors, chances are you'll have problems down the line.) To take off the rotor, carefull pry off the dust cap on the spindle and remove the cotter pin and nut. Open the master cylinder (or open the bleeder valve on the caliper) and use a C-clamp and the old brake pad to compress the caliper piston. Install the new pads and put the rotor back on. Repeat on other side and then bleed the brakes.
Here is an article with some pics
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...2003_F150.html
Here is an article with some pics
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...2003_F150.html
#3
#4
OK, I'll admit it, I've "slapped" pads occassionally. If the rotor is fairly clean - meaning no groves in it - and I am going to use a high quality metallic pad, then I would consider just slapping on the new pads and going for it. If the rotor has lots of wear or deep groves, then you have to turn it or replace it. I haven't experienced problems with the "slapped" pads, but maybe I'm just very lucky.
Be careful when you push the piston back in as it tends to push fluid back up into the master cylinder. If you have topped off the fluid recently because the pads were getting low, then it has a tendency to come spilling out. It is bad stuff to get on paint and other items. I used my wife's turkey baster to suck some out last time... that caused a whole other list of problems - with my wife (Thanksgiving day, lots of relatives, and she says, "Where's the turkey baster?")
Be careful when you push the piston back in as it tends to push fluid back up into the master cylinder. If you have topped off the fluid recently because the pads were getting low, then it has a tendency to come spilling out. It is bad stuff to get on paint and other items. I used my wife's turkey baster to suck some out last time... that caused a whole other list of problems - with my wife (Thanksgiving day, lots of relatives, and she says, "Where's the turkey baster?")
#5
Hope you said "Oh Honey I haven't seen it " and didn't go grab it from your tool box. 'Course depending on your relationship with the relatives a little brake fluid in the turkey might be acceptable!
#6
#7
Let me clarify. I haven't done the brakes myself (front or rear) before. They have always been done at the dealership. The rears were done at 98k but the front were not done at that time and I'm not sure when they were done but they have been done. I'm not that hard on brakes but I don't get 100k between brake jobs.
As far as just replacing pads versus having the rotors turned, I thought the rotors needed to be turned only after they had been grooved or damaged in some way. Sounds like my recollection on that one is not accurate. Still not convinced I need to try it. Please continue with the encouragement. I don't have a truck payment but that doesn't mean I don't want to keep my $$.
As far as just replacing pads versus having the rotors turned, I thought the rotors needed to be turned only after they had been grooved or damaged in some way. Sounds like my recollection on that one is not accurate. Still not convinced I need to try it. Please continue with the encouragement. I don't have a truck payment but that doesn't mean I don't want to keep my $$.
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#9
I didnt turn the rotors on my truck when i replaced the front pads when i got it, mostly because they werent warped or glazed. Im going to replace the front pads again in a few weeks, and probably wont turn them then either.
Also if you have a 2wd and go to get the rotors surfaced.. it would be a good time to clean and repack the wheel bearings.
Also if you have a 2wd and go to get the rotors surfaced.. it would be a good time to clean and repack the wheel bearings.
#10