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Ever since I removed the turbo for rebuild and upgrades I can't keep the down-pipe from touching the tranny cross-member.
Is there a better clamp? Does the original get stretched out? ? This clamp is as tight as it will go. The vibration/rattle sound on the cross-member drives me crazy. It will only stay in place for about 10 minutes of driving then it got right back.
Loosen the downpipe clamp and all other clamps on the exhaust system. Have someone hold the downpipe in position away from the trans crossmember bolt while you tighten up the v-band clamp. Then continue to work your way down the exhaust system, holding each pipe in place as you tighten it down. That's the only way you're going to get it to work again.
It's all but impossible to loosen the exhaust living here in the "rust belt". When I tried running a muffler for a little bit I had to cut the delete pipe off with a sawzall
Jason try soaking the bolts in PB Blaster. I live right near the ocean and between that and the salt from the roads everythig is rusted. I have had goood luck with PB and sometimes a little heat.
Probably. Thanks for your help Curtis. I guess this is a common issue? My exhaust has been on since summer 06.
Yeah any time you disconnect the downpipe, there can be a tendency for the exhaust to "shift" slightly. Getting it to line back up is always a pain, and the easiest way to line it up is to loosen the entire system and slowly bolt it back together just like you did when you first installed it. But since you're in the rust belt, that's going to be tough. You can try Jim's suggestion with the PB Blaster and heat.
I've removed my turbo a few times, and I've noticed that my exhaust shifted closer to the trans crossmember bolt. I haven't fixed it yet, but I did see that it has already vibrated around enough where there is a small mark on the exhaust right at that bolt. So it's starting to touch. Looks like one of these days I'm going to have to mess with it.
I had to grind the heads of the bolts on the X-member brace to gain some clearance on mine. I did this when I had the trans out during my rebuild. The bolts heads were rubbing slightly and creating some noise at idle in gear. There was a bar connecting the bolt heads, so removing a little material didn't matter.
I had to grind the heads of the bolts on the X-member brace to gain some clearance on mine. I did this when I had the trans out during my rebuild. The bolts heads were rubbing slightly and creating some noise at idle in gear. There was a bar connecting the bolt heads, so removing a little material didn't matter.
That is exactly what I did during the original install. Now I can't keep it clear.
I don't have a problem getting the bolts and clamps off. I getting the pipes loose....
I'm thinking about cutting that piece off and using flex pipe like with stacks. Will that work?
I really want a single black stack but also want to up-grade from the TT to a 5er. And the black soot on a new 5er would irritate me a little. I'm hard to please.
Mine started that not to long ago too. Everything was fine at first, guess it loosened up a bit. Loosened everything up and circled the spot and pulled apart, put a little indent with a ball peen hammer. Wasn't to crazy about wacking it but who,s gonna see.
Mine started that not to long ago too. Everything was fine at first, guess it loosened up a bit. Loosened everything up and circled the spot and pulled apart, put a little indent with a ball peen hammer. Wasn't to crazy about wacking it but who,s gonna see.
I've considered that also.
Anyone know of a tool that would crimp/dent the pipe without removing it?
I had this same problem when I did my 5"... I ended up using a big pry bar to dent the pipe a bit more after it was installed... Just get the tip of the bar right where the bolt heads are...
As for breaking pipes loose, I found the best way was to soak the pipe joint in PB blaster and whack it with a rubber mallet...
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