One other quick comment before I leave you to ponder your next move.

If the wiring checks out I can post how to test the solenoid again if you missed it in one of the other threads.

If you have a bad one the solenoid pack is replaceable without dropping the tranny. But keep in mind solenoids rarely go bad, but it is possible.

 

That was me...my tranny got hot. I found it was overfilled, and I put in a massive tranny cooler, no more problem. I also started the thread. My f250 will hold its place on a hill, at idle, just fine. down the road when I lift off the throttle, it drops to idle. I'm gonna run the codes on thursday. Shifts threw the gears just fine. Actually runs great except for the "coasting" effect. I was in a bad situation on the highway (about to get pinched between a slow moving bus and a full speed semi) I moved to the center lane and mashed the throttle for the very first time. Normally I drive like a little old man (no offense to little old men). I couldnt believe the way my truck launched already going 60mph. Put me back in the seat....

 

Where is the connector on the tranny for the coast clutch, or perhaps the tranny computer plug if its all integrated.....?

 

i copy pasted this from a PM Danr1 send me... give him the credit not me its a gr8 write up


The coast clutch wire should be brown with a orange stripe.
It should be located at pin #56 on the EEC connector.
You will find the EEC pin out locations here,
Ford Fuel Injection EEC Computers
(scroll down the page a little and you'll see the EEC connector)

Disconnect the EEC connector (under the dash, drivers side in your year?) and unplug the solenoid pack connector on the passenger side of the transmission. Should be near the rear corner of the pan on top of the pan bolt flange, has a little heat shield blocking it from the exhaust pipe heat if it's the same as mine (looks like there is some small differences in the year's yours to mine). The connector points straight up.
Be sure to only use your hand to unplug the connector at the solenoid pack by pushing the release button in the center of the plug toward the passenger side, if you pry it off with a screw driver or something you will damage the pack.

If you don't have a multi meter buy one they are cheap.
Set the meter for a continuity test, If the leads on the meter are not long enough to reach both plugs use a length of wire (not to small of gauge).

Connect the meter leads to the brown/orange wire at each connector and confirm it has continuity. If not find the break in the wire and repair it. Solder your connections and make weather tight, take it for a test ride.
One place I'd start looking for a break in the wire if you find it has one is where the harness crosses the cross member under the front drive shaft leading from the frame rail to the transmission. Good chance its damaged there if it is damaged.

If you need more help or don't follow what I'm saying, just let me know. ( Danr1 )

 

My mechanic ran the tranny codes today and no codes were displayed (per him, I was tattooing). When I turn OD off the engine breaks, and the coverter stays locked up just fine. Turn it on I coast when letting off the throttle. I'm gonna run the test this weekend that DJ' posted right before me. My mechanic (an old ford guy...has like 5 ford trucks) seems to think it's normal. Honestly I have alot of things I wanna get right so I'm curious whether this is on the radarright now. I bow to the forums' collective knowledge as I just bought my truck a month or so ago.....so I don't want to discount those that have said this IS NOT normal. Testing will tell.

If it is my coast clutch, could that overheat my tranny as I don't have any overheating since I added a monster tranny cooler and brought fluid levels to normal?

~ humble newbie, Tattoo Jim

 

Ok my truck does this when I've reset the system. By taking the battery cables off. After a while it warms right back up to my normal driving.