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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Pyrometer Install (help)

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Old Jun 19, 2008 | 09:20 PM
  #16  
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Todd525
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From: Ohio
thats why I use the grease film, to keep the dust from dropping. It clings to the tap chute, and bit channel.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 09:20 AM
  #17  
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mcdavidson
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From: Emmett, ID
Originally Posted by Neal 97 250
I would do as superduty4X4 did. I would just vacuum and use a pencil magnet just for a bit of insurance.
X4 (or is it X5) Drill straight up and down, step up your bit size, vacuum, magnet, vacuum. YOU WILL be surprised when you put the magnet in the hole and find shavings, play it safe... your turbo isn't cheap.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 10:37 AM
  #18  
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secondarychaos
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Ya, When i installed mine, i put a vac on it inbetween each part and a magnet inbetween, and it came out great.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2008 | 07:32 AM
  #19  
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sowaxeman
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All these different ideas on how to do this: drill one hole, drill multiple holes stepping up, use grease, use no grease, vacuum/don't vacuum......have ANY of you every experienced a turbo problem after your method? Assuming not, that supports the theory that there are several different ways to accomplish this feat without damaging the turbo
 
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 09:54 AM
  #20  
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Erik Sink
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Good point!
 
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 11:29 AM
  #21  
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mcdavidson
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From: Emmett, ID
Originally Posted by sowaxeman
All these different ideas on how to do this: drill one hole, drill multiple holes stepping up, use grease, use no grease, vacuum/don't vacuum......have ANY of you every experienced a turbo problem after your method? Assuming not, that supports the theory that there are several different ways to accomplish this feat without damaging the turbo

The point is to minimize the risk of damage, do it how you want, it's your money...
 
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 11:36 AM
  #22  
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444dieselrod
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From: Braham MN
Turbos are ALOT tougher then most people think.

progressivly drill out the hole, use grease on EVERY BIT, I took a small angled seal pick and picked out the large grease chuncks that were in the manifold after I tapped it. fired it up and its done.
Done 6 PSD's, one dirtmax, and a few 3406 cats and everyone of them is still on the road with a good turbo. you could prolly throw potatos into your exhaust and your turbo would live. there tough sobs.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 03:36 PM
  #23  
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Todd525
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I dont like using progreesive holes for one reason. After you punch thru with the first bit anything that falls ot the side has a possibility of getting stuck in oil residue. I center punch a hole, start with a small bit just to get a REAL good piolit point, then switch to the specified size. The key to this method is to have GOOD bits. Not the mickey mouse walmart bits that dull and create dust. I am talking bits that can cut shavings. This helps. There are many ways, this is just mine. I always use cutting oil all the way to the end, then coat with grease to ensure a good grip on the little junk. Same way with tap. Hope this helps, as there is a thousand ways to skin this cat.......
 
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 03:54 PM
  #24  
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Tim Shultz
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I just drilled and tapped mine. that was 30,000 miles ago and I'm still making 28PSI
 
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 04:49 PM
  #25  
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Gobstopper909
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Originally Posted by Todd525
..... there is a thousand ways to skin this cat.......
X6? not sure but quality of thread improves when theres cutting oil applied to the tap. ever use a tap/die without oil? itll booger up your threads. (Im a union pipefitter they yell at us if we cut without enough oil ) theres a reason why they sell "cutting oil" and remember, were dealing with the exhaust side, not the compressor side... some dust wont hurt.. good luck with your pyro install!!
 
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