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Pyrometer Install (help)

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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 09:39 PM
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Pyrometer Install (help)

I Still Cant Figure Out How To Install A Pyrometer Without Getting Metal Shavings In The Exhaust. Any Idea's.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by PAVEMENTMAN
I Still Cant Figure Out How To Install A Pyrometer Without Getting Metal Shavings In The Exhaust. Any Idea's.
Use a vaccum pump.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 09:49 PM
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What Kind Of Vacum Pump And When,
 
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 09:54 PM
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i have heard of people leaving it running while drilling or put some grease on the drill bit
 
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by PAVEMENTMAN
What Kind Of Vacum Pump And When,
I mean vacuum cleaner like Crafstman and when you are drilling the exhaust manifold drivers side and at the end of the drilling and taping.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 10:08 PM
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Another tip: after drilling and tapping the hole, use a magnet to try and get the shavings out of the manifold. If your magnet is too big, just hold it beside a drill bit and insert the bit into the hole. It works great.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 10:09 PM
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NEVER LET THE MOTOR RUN WHILE DRILLING. Very very bad. drill, grease, vacum it out, plunge pencil magnet, tap with grease, repeat. Just like a hair do......LOL
 
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 10:57 PM
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Take your time drilling and use several bits, working your way up. 90-95% of the shavings will fall on the ground if you drill your hole pointing down. Same for tapping- most of the shavings fall right out.
I did not vacuum or otherwise try to remove the shavings when I did mine. Send a PM to CSIPSD, he's got more gauges in his truck than an F-14 and has installed a ton more for other people and he told me "no vacuum, no worries" so I went with it.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2008 | 12:06 PM
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I would do as superduty4X4 did. I would just vacuum and use a pencil magnet just for a bit of insurance.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2008 | 12:11 PM
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yep X3 on superduty's post.
I've heard that grease can be bad for a turbo, so if you do use it, dont overuse it where it would drip any inside.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2008 | 12:36 PM
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Yup. and grease on the bit will carry the shavings into the hole with the bit.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2008 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Neal 97 250
Yup. and grease on the bit will carry the shavings into the hole with the bit.
Yup again- grease is not your friend in this case.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2008 | 05:10 PM
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I disagree. Grease is GOOD. Oil is BAD. do not use something like wd40, penetrating oil, etc. This is also a SLOW drill, dont run it into the manifold at 400 rpm. The grease sticks into the chanel of the bit. Using a progresive step bit, OR drilling each hole slightly larger will cause excess steel shavings to fall into the manifold AFTER the first pass. Reason for this being the first pass hole acts as a relief. (Of coarse this principal only applies if tapping into the top.) If your drilling from the bottom, there should only be ONE relief hole to kep bit frm walking, and to allow for bit tip penetration. Standard Machining principals apply in this scenario.

As far as the grease getting on the turbo, its only good till about 350 degrees or so, then liqufies and will pass thu just like raw fuel after the first time it runs. Should cause no damage, since we arent talking about a tube, nor a thimbal full, we are talking as much as it takes to put a skin on a bit tip. Of coarse this is just my .02 take it for what its worth, if anyone has any supporting evidence, or reasons contrary to mine, please post.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2008 | 05:33 PM
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how i was told was that there's only one way to use grease-
drill small to large, and only apply a very small amount just as you're about to break through, then slowly pull out.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2008 | 07:04 PM
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When I did mine I just drilled the hole then tapped it then screwed in the probe. Viola.

You are drilling into cast iron and if I recall correctly you are not getting long wiggly strings of metal, it's mostly almost dust and not much at that.

And, if and when it goes through the turbo its not going as a clump, it's dust partials.

Rog
 
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