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adapting different a/c compressor

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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 01:07 PM
  #1  
Jose A.'s Avatar
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adapting different a/c compressor

hello,
Time passes and this may have been discussed before, but I haven't seen it!

Has anyone adapted a different a/c compressor to the 3.0 liter Aerostar with the rear a/c ?? Mine is a 1992, everything continues to work except the a/c.

I have been through four FS-10, I refuse to bother with another. I want a different compressor, something that will last more than 1 year and be a freezer. Is that too much to ask?

In contrast, I also own a 1984 Jaguar XJ-6, I have owned that car for 17 long years. The a/c compressor is a GM A6. It continues to be a freezer in there. Yet, my 1992 FORD a/c doesn't last a year, rebuild after rebuild. It has come to a point where certain a/c Shops and Technicians REFUSE to work on FORD a/c systems. Has anybody experienced THAT? Are Ford a/c systems SO bad? (in my experience I would have to answer, YES, but...I think it comes down to the compressor).

how can this FS-10 be replaced with something better and durable?

Jose
 
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 01:39 PM
  #2  
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Jose,

There must be something fundamentally wrong with the way your A/C system was repaired. The FS-10 compressor on my van lasts forever, but you need to be absolutely sure that everything was flushed out properly, your orifice tube is replaced, and your accumulator is replaced.

If the guy who did your compressor just replaced it without doing any of those, surely your compressor will go out again within a year.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 02:14 PM
  #3  
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fundamentality

Copper,

3 of the 4 times that the system has been rebuilt, I have been involved with the rebuild, whether watching, or helping, or asking questions, or making sure new parts are installed properly.

The system has been flushed, accumulators replaced, condensers replaced, compressors replaced, orifice tubes replaced, you name it, and then flushed again, and evacuated, and checked for leaks everytime, not to mention the technician is experienced with Fords. And yet, it always works halfway-there, or not at all, and when it finally does, it doesn't last. (the compressor is always the culprit).

I have heard of "black-death" but my system does not exhibit any of the symptoms of such, no buildup of anything around the orifice tubes, (or anywhere for that matter), but just to be sure, I have replaced condensers too.

Maybe you have been lucky with your FS-10? I sure haven't.

So is it even possible to adapt a larger compressor? I don't think the FS-10 is up to the capacity of a twin-air system.

Jose
 
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 03:52 PM
  #4  
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if you do intown suburban driving during the a/c months turn off the OD below 50 mph and drive in 2nd below 30 mph.

switch a/c shops. they're doing something wrong.
they did not change the front and rear muffler filters, the round black cans. these can NOT be cleaned by flushing, they plug
wrong a/c oil, not enough or too much
undercharged system
failed fan clutch
slipping fan belt
partially plugged air flow thru radiator restricting condenser air flow
look for a hose broken down internally, swelled and partially shut off.

my Aero system is 12 years old, dual, will drive us out of the van on a 100d F day with both front and rear going. original compressor
far better than the wife's two anemic Honda products.

the FS-10 is a high capacity compressor. the problem is in the materials used in the early pump design. solved in later production.
the cheapy rebuilders use cheap low cost pump rebuilt parts
 
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 12:55 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by 96_4wdr
if you do intown suburban driving during the a/c months turn off the OD below 50 mph and drive in 2nd below 30 mph.

switch a/c shops. they're doing something wrong.
they did not change the front and rear muffler filters, the round black cans. these can NOT be cleaned by flushing, they plug
wrong a/c oil, not enough or too much
undercharged system
failed fan clutch
slipping fan belt
partially plugged air flow thru radiator restricting condenser air flow
look for a hose broken down internally, swelled and partially shut off.

my Aero system is 12 years old, dual, will drive us out of the van on a 100d F day with both front and rear going. original compressor
far better than the wife's two anemic Honda products.

the FS-10 is a high capacity compressor. the problem is in the materials used in the early pump design. solved in later production.
the cheapy rebuilders use cheap low cost pump rebuilt parts


mine was the same untill the muffler tube thingy started leaking due to a slow wear spot. any ways... i agree that something isn't being done right. what? i don't know. but from what little i know it sounds like the compressors that have been put in are either working WAY too hard or are cheaply made/remanufactured
 
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 96_4wdr
if you do intown suburban driving during the a/c months turn off the OD below 50 mph and drive in 2nd below 30 mph.
96, could you explain this part for me please? You have never given me bad advice, but I always like to learn the theory behind such things.

Thanks!
 
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 11:13 PM
  #7  
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O.k. to start with A/c compressors don't die they are killed. Ussually by poor repairs or people neglecting to see the signs. First what kind of oil did they install w the remand compressors ? ester oil must be installed with conversions from r-12 to r 134 a as the 134 will not carry the oil for the compressor. second what are you're a/c pressures after the compressor installs ? Ford has an adjustable low side pressure switch but if miss adjusted or faulty can cause high side pressures above 300 lbs. which will destroy any a/c compressor . and lastly did the other shop install a new orifice tube ? if the orifice tube is plugged with debris from exploding compressors then the low side pressures will be wlow and if the tech is not paying attention to the high side pressures then again the high side pressures will be too high and the low side too low. The pressures I like to see are approx 22 Lbs. on the low side and 200 to 250 lbs. on the high side with an ambient temp. lower then 80 degrees good luck
 
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 07:54 AM
  #8  
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reman vs. new

in the case of my Aerostar, no remanufactured FS10 compressors were installed, they were new, ordered from a reliable supplier. Yes, new orifice tubes were installed every time, I watched the new orifice tubes being installed.

I don't think my first and second posts were understood, everything was specified there, so I don't understand about the "reman" compressors advice.

Also, I did not convert to R134a, I only use R12, and that's an issue which I'm very opinionated about, I simply refuse R134a and will not use it.

What I did not know about, was the adjustable low pressure switch, is this the switch mounted on the accumulator?

I am gathering information because I want to make the a/c system work in my van, I'm going to try again, so I'm thinking of removing every hose and testing each one at a time, then each of the components, less the compressor, accumulator, o-tubes, and any other discardables.

If I cannot do R12 this time, I'm going to use one of the other alternative refrigerants, but not R134a.

thanks for the help.

Jose A.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 11:26 AM
  #9  
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Hi Jose,

That might be where your problem is. Nowadays, new compressors are normally filled with PAG oil, which is really incompatible with R-12.

HCFC REFRIGERANTS IN PAG OIL

To use R-12, you will have to drain all the PAG oil from the compressor and refill it with mineral oil, which is a real pain in the neck. If you are using one of those alternate refrigerants, make sure it's compatible with the oil you use, and make sure all traces of old oil was removed from the whole system, not just the compressor. A new accumulator with a dessicant compatible with your refrigerant must also be put in.

Just out of curiosity, why the objection to R-134a?

Good luck
 
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 05:21 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by DaveMac2Vans
96, could you explain this part for me please? You have never given me bad advice, but I always like to learn the theory behind such things.

Thanks!
keeps up the engine rpm
critical to the compressor and condensor air flow for high cap a/c cooling.
also keeps the engine compartment cooler and the battery charged from the high demand of the fans running full bore

my 96 Aero came stock with R-134a 13 years ago and still cools like a walk in flash freezer on 100d F days in heavy traffic

almost impossible to remove incompatible oil from a compressor and is damaging internally to the compressor.
some residual flush solvent is left inside which takes out the fine finish.
use coolant compatable with the OEM lube that the new compressor comes pre primed with

old non compatable oil also stays in the long hoses of the double a/c unit Aero.
really tought to flush it all out. takes complete disassembly.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 08:10 PM
  #11  
Jose A.'s Avatar
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compressor oil

ok > that's a critical point, the oil. Anything is possible.

Alright, so let's just say I'm going to do another rebuild.

Is there a a/c Manual for the Aerostar?

Why I don't care for R134a?
because it doesn't cool as good as R12 or other alternative refrigerants, especially at idling, red lights, etc.

thank you for the support, gentlemen. I do want to keep my Aerostar, that's why I'm trying to do something about this, I can't live without a/c.
Jose
 
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 09:02 PM
  #12  
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Thanks, 96! I guessed the rpm part, but I didn't think about the airflow on the condenser. I guess that's because I am a washer and dryer person instead of a refrigeration person. That will soon change, because the company is sending me through a refrigeration course so I will be certified to handle and revover refrigerants and work on our refrigeration and air conditioning products.

Thanks again for the lesson.


Originally Posted by 96_4wdr
keeps up the engine rpm
critical to the compressor and condensor air flow for high cap a/c cooling.
also keeps the engine compartment cooler and the battery charged from the high demand of the fans running full bore
 
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